Revell 1/96 Spanish Galleon

wotan

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Andrew

Both bits could easily be moulded. I would suggest you try some epoxy putty, but failing that plaster, Fimo or even paper clay (made of toilet paper and white glue, check out google). I would remove the little ball on the top, since it can easily be replaced later. then press the top, pointy end first into plasticine (for moulding paperclay) or epoxy putty and allow to set. When you pull out the piece you should have a simple mould that you can then press more epoxy putty into. The same process for the bottom.

If you want to get more sophisticated something like Composimold is a reusable moulding material that you can press epoxy putty into to make small parts.

I expect somebody will come up with something easier but these ideas are not complex.

John
 

Bobby Conkers

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Thank you John.

I've ordered some O gauge lamps which I will try and modify with my own LEDs, but I'll try your suggestion as well, sounds a good technique to learn.
 

Isitme

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Might go with sails this time, tbc. My mother in law thinks she can use the plastic sails as a mould and knock some proper fabric with starch and tea staining.
For sails, mix up a solution of white glue (PVA) and water and plain tissue paper, lay the tissue over the original and then gently use a brush to allow the glue mix to run all over the tissue and then lave to completely dry. Once totally dry you can again stain in a sail colour, allow to dry and then gently peel off.
Hope this helps
Mike.
 

Bobby Conkers

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Andrew

Both bits could easily be moulded. I would suggest you try some epoxy putty, but failing that plaster, Fimo or even paper clay (made of toilet paper and white glue, check out google). I would remove the little ball on the top, since it can easily be replaced later. then press the top, pointy end first into plasticine (for moulding paperclay) or epoxy putty and allow to set. When you pull out the piece you should have a simple mould that you can then press more epoxy putty into. The same process for the bottom.

If you want to get more sophisticated something like Composimold is a reusable moulding material that you can press epoxy putty into to make small parts.

I expect somebody will come up with something easier but these ideas are not complex.

John

Ok, so I have some epoxy putty. I have it setting on the part as we speak. Once it's set, and the part pulled out, how do I use the putty next? Do I push it into my mould then wait for it to set as well, or pull out the new bit of putty to stop it fusing to the mould?
 

Neil Merryweather

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Ok, so I have some epoxy putty. I have it setting on the part as we speak. Once it's set, and the part pulled out, how do I use the putty next? Do I push it into my mould then wait for it to set as well, or pull out the new bit of putty to stop it fusing to the mould?
use the epoxy putty for the moulding but you must use a release agent, like vaseline, to stop the two sticking together. Just leave it till it's cured and then remove it, otherwise it will distort.
Did you use a release agent on the part? if not , you won't get them apart when it's cured!
 

Bobby Conkers

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use the epoxy putty for the moulding but you must use a release agent, like vaseline, to stop the two sticking together. Just leave it till it's cured and then remove it, otherwise it will distort.
Did you use a release agent on the part? if not , you won't get them apart when it's cured!

Oops...
 
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Tim Marlow

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Possibly information that should have been supplied up front Neil :loudly-crying:
 

Bobby Conkers

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Quick play about. I will do this again with the part properly sanded (and the nobble lopped off), but it's dried rock solid and even the join lines show!
 

Bobby Conkers

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Anyway, while waiting for putty to set, finally got superstructure painted. Looked far simpler than the reality but reasonably happy.

The 12" test works for me, although the closeup of my window solution shows me up! Fortunately, everyone I know wears glasses, so they won't see owt.

20210302_222908.jpg20210302_222952.jpg
 

rtfoe

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Hi Bobby, build looks good.
I must confess in the earlier photos I thought you had some serious wood worm or wood rot problems on the window frames but since the clean up and some paint it looks good. :smiling2:
The mesh works...will you be adding clear acetate behind it or filling the mesh with Kristal Klear? White glue works as well applied with a tooth pick. Both the Kristal Klear and white glue will give the effect of old imperfect glass.

The Galleon can pass off as one of Drakes ships.

Cheers,
Richard
 

Bobby Conkers

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Thanks Richard.

I'm testing some Revell Contacta Clear on a small bit of mesh as we speak. As I don't do much military seems a shame to waste it, and looks after an hour of drying that it's working well.

Failing that, my daughter's boyfriend's father-in-law runs a packing firm, so some off cut acetate should be reasonably easy to come by. I do love an upcycle. However, the glue solution will be preferable as the 'glass' will appear between the leading, not behind it.
 
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Jim R

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Hi Andrew
This is looking great - better and better. Love the way you're solving the problems you come up against.
Jim
 

adt70hk

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That's coming on really nicely Andrew.

Well done.

Andrew
 

Bobby Conkers

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Contacta Clear seemed to do exactly what I wanted it to, a stroke of luck. Wouldn't be able to do it with bigger 'panes', but this I'm more than happy with. Looks really good with my LEDs behind it - doesn't come out well on a photo on the table, but here for posterity, before and after.

20210302_222952.jpg20210304_095524.jpg
 
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