Roberts Airfix 1/48 Junkers Ju 87B-1 Stuka

papa 695

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Nice work Robert
 

Robert1968

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Well I've been at this since 1030 am and I'm going to have to take a break
Once I klear coated the undersides I then once dry started masking up for the top coats Rlm 71/70 splinter
I made up a 60/40 ratio thinned paint Model Air 71:015 olive grey Rlm71 and gave a thinned coat to the top surfaces.
After a few hours drying I started to mask off the 71 splinter areas to await the Rlm 70 Model Air 71:021 Black green
The masking has taken me a few hours but I only had one minor hick up with paint pull off. ( user error )
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colin m

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Looking really good. This is one of those builds which makes me want a Stuka.
 

papa 695

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It's coming along very nicely indeed Robert.
 

Robert1968

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In some ways I hate taking masking tape off but then on other times I like to see the results of my work.
On this occasion I'm a bit 50/50 as I am impressed with my splinter camo but I'm a bit disappointed at the over tacky of the tamiya tape. ( user error )
Options
Well the StuKa will have an all over white wash at the end ( you should still see the splinter underneath, so I still need to retain the Splinter camo, so do I re mask up areas and respray with RLM70/71 and hope this will correct? Or do I use these areas and paint with dull aluminium and claim them to be well travelled areas and add to the weathered worn look?
Comments and critics welcome
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dubster72

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Personally I don't think it's down to the Tamiya tape Robert, but the paints. Vallejo is so fragile that I never use it when masking is required.

If it was me, I'd respray the damaged areas where big patches have come off. To attempt to do them as bare metal would look OTT in my opinion.
 

Robert1968

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Personally I don't think it's down to the Tamiya tape Robert, but the paints. Vallejo is so fragile that I never use it when masking is required.

If it was me, I'd respray the damaged areas where big patches have come off. To attempt to do them as bare metal would look OTT in my opinion.
Thanks Patrick
I used that stynylrez primer too and from the pull offs it's taken that too.
I am going to remask the areas and respray ( tedious but I think and believe needed.
I like Model air too but will have to be careful with the paint in future

Thanks

Robert
 

dubster72

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Thanks Patrick
I used that stynylrez primer too and from the pull offs it's taken that too.
I am going to remask the areas and respray ( tedious but I think and believe needed.
I like Model air too but will have to be careful with the paint in future

Thanks

Robert
It's all about the time mate. I know that all these new-fangled products are said to be ready for use in just a few hours, but there's still something to be said for waiting a day or two between putting new coats of paint down.

I use the stynylrez primer too, but that's always left for 48 hours before I even look at the model again! ;)
 

BarryW

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Robert did you clean the surface thoroughly with i.p.a. before spraying the Stynylrez?

Finger grease or release agent is the usual cause of this problem. Stynylrez and VMA work beautifully but if the plastic is not cleaned off....

My suggestion would be to give the aircraft a light sanding overall, wipe it over with i.p.a. removing more of the paint and then another sanding and final wipe over. I would then spray a Stynylrez primer coat building it up slowly then repaint the camo. One further suggestion - leave 24 hours between coats to make sure the paint is dry before masking over. there shpould not be a need to de-tac Tammy tape but it is a good idea to do so regardless.

It might also be an idea to use disposable gloves when handling.
 
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Just caught u with this one Robert,you are doing a fantastic job so far keep it up.
 

Robert1968

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Thanks fir the comments guys and all taken on board ( I use blue gloves when spraying but think I may at some stage handled the kit before the sty primer went down. ( my error ) I always wash kits in warm soapy water then once dry I always wipe down with IPA.
I have since sorted the problems and remarked and resprayed with better results this time.
I'm not saying that I don't get along with stynylrez but in my limited knowledge in primers I find Vallejo primers seem to work best ( personal choice I know )
Always a learning curve this hobby and I'm very grateful when I do have the odd hiccup that there's a wide selection of advice out there

Thanks guys

Regards

Robert
 
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Keep up the good work, Robert. Looks like this kit's putting up a bit of a fight but I'm sure it'll come right in the end. It's good to see I'm not the only one who experiences user error from time to time!
 

Ian M

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Ouch! That's one band aid that hurt to take off!
I had a couple of tiny bits do it on my one, but easy to re do.
I tend to de-tak my masking tape, I also use it three or so times befor it gets binned. (My record is eight). Lol.
Also I only ever burnish tape down on canopies and lightly in panel lines.
Vallejo paint are fine and just as robust as the next one. Use of the correct thinner and let it cure before masking.
 

dubster72

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Vallejo paint are fine and just as robust as the next one. Use of the correct thinner and let it cure before masking.
I'm not knocking VMA or putting enamels above acrylic paints, but I've got to disagree with you there Ian! A quick Google search shows that many people have problems with Model Air & Colour rubbing off or pulling up, even if all the usual prerequisites have been met.

Acrylic paint just aren't as robust as enamels... And I'll take a challenge on that any day! ;)
 

Robert1968

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I'm not knocking VMA or putting enamels above acrylic paints, but I've got to disagree with you there Ian! A quick Google search shows that many people have problems with Model Air & Colour rubbing off or pulling up, even if all the usual prerequisites have been met.

Acrylic paint just aren't as robust as enamels... And I'll take a challenge on that any day! ;)
Pistols at dawn!!!
( whose gonna draw first) and whose going to use the correct wearherng tech on the old blunder busts.
 

Robert1968

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Well got me self going on this again.
I have been doing some practice on whitewash on some milk cartons after spraying them black ( still needs more practice ) but if I remember rightly Stona said they were brush painted with white wash so I'm going to try that too( again)
Right where are we at too
The splinter camo is finished and all damage wear and tear to A/c done. I have then received decals from overseas of the original mark ( yippee ) got from Czech Rep 1/48 MNFD L48043 (limited run )
Decals look nice but are a little bit on the shiney side ( Not cartograph)
I ha e also started spraying the RLM 04 Gelb on the outer undersides of the wings. I've had a few problems with the band but I'll build that up gradual.
Thanks for looking in

Robert

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Looking good Robert but I see what you mean about the decals very shiny.
Will look great when it's done though
 

Robert1968

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Looking good Robert but I see what you mean about the decals very shiny.
Will look great when it's done though
Once on and treated I have some dull coat that I can try and bring down the sheen but it maybe only surface film/ decal applicant? Don't know
 
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