Rough airbrush finish at wingroot!

[Cooperman69]

Hi all,

Wonder if anyone can help or advise me on what I'm doing wrong.

Whenever I'm airbrushing the wing to fuselage section of a model, in this case a 1/48 Spitfire, I seem to suffer from a rougher finish than the rest of the model surface. It's not massively rough but you can see the difference when reflecting in the light.

I'm using a Badger 200 airbrush with compressor set at @20psi, holding the airbrush between 1.5" to 2" from the surface, the paint mix is approx. 60/40, the paint and thinners are Tamiya.

Strangely enough one side seems worse than the other and the only difference was I turned the model upside down to spray the better finished side.

Anyone have any tips to remedy this?

Atb, Colin.

 

[tecdes]

Hi all, Wonder if anyone can help or advise me on what I'm doing wrong.

Whenever I'm airbrushing the wing to fuselage section of a model, in this case a 1/48 Spitfire, I seem to suffer from a rougher finish than the rest of the model surface. It's not massively rough but you can see the difference when reflecting in the light.

I'm using a Badger 200 airbrush with compressor set at @20psi, holding the airbrush between 1.5" to 2" from the surface, the paint mix is approx. 60/40, the paint and thinners are Tamiya.

Strangely enough one side seems worse than the other and the only difference was I turned the model upside down to spray the better finished side.

Anyone have any tips to remedy this?

Atb, Colin.

For general work like you describe Colin I would be about 6" away from the model. I use a Harder & Steenback brush with a .4 needle/nozzle. Also I keep the brush moving all the time. Good idea to experiment. I would only be that close with an airbrush (in general terms) fo small pieces.

Laurie

 

[Cooperman69]

Hi Laurie,

Thanks for the reply.

I was a bit worried about pulling back too far from the model incase the paint dried before hitting the surface. So would 6" as you recommend be OK?

Also forgot to mention that the needle size is Fine, not too sure where that fits in with the usual sizes of 0.2, 0.4, etc.

 

[Ian M]

It due to turbulence between the two surfaces and the corner they form. The paint is drying before it can settle. As Laurie said, pulling back can help. Also as you found out, holding it upside down helps. The paint falls away from the wing instead of onto the fresh paint. If you are ok with masking, you can mask the wing when you paint the fuselage.

If I get it on mine, I tend to just knock it back with a fine wet and dry and a squirt of water.

Ian M

 

[tecdes]

No problem I have found with 6" away Colin. Best is to try with your set up & type of paint.

Again needle size is an interesting one. I use a .4 with Vallejo paint with a Harder Steenbeck airbrush. Not had problems. Going down to a .2 I have with certain colours had blockage problems. The paint I use is Vallejo Model Air which is manufactured with ready to use airbrush use in mind. But I still thin. All these things make a difference & it is best to experiment to find the optimum for your set up.

Laurie

 

[tecdes]

Another thought Colin go with vertical strokes with the wing root then changes to horizontal as you come away either side.

Laurie

 

[Cooperman69]

Thanks for the tips chaps. All taken on board and will try out with the next airbrush session.

Atb, Colin.

 

[Stevekir]

It due to turbulence between the two surfaces and the corner they form. The paint is drying before it can settle. As Laurie said, pulling back can help. Also as you found out, holding it upside down helps. The paint falls away from the wing instead of onto the fresh paint. If you are ok with masking, you can mask the wing when you paint the fuselage. If I get it on mine, I tend to just knock it back with a fine wet and dry and a squirt of water.

Ian M

On turbulence, I have sometimes got the opposite effect of paint drying. When airbrushing Tamiya clear (varnish) on the wing root, the paint pooled at the wing root, possibly due to the fact that it is a right angled shape there and the stream is therefore boxed in. I solved it by moving the AB more quickly in that area so as to reduce the rate of application.

On the other point about distance, I think a distance of 1 1/2 to 2" is far too close (although theoretically, being so close might actually prevent the paint drying). 6" is much better (in my experience).