Shenanigans 2: T-34 Bail Out

[Peter Gillson]

Another one smaller than 120mm, you must have new glasses ! I loom forward to following this one.

You could try mounting the tank on a slope, sloping doen towards the front.

 

[monica]

very nice to see you doing this one,Peter,will be tagging along,do like your idea,

 

[Jim R]

Hi Peter
I'm going to enjoy this. Gonna be good.
Jim

 

[Jakko]

I think I'm going to go for a couple of fairly low calibre hits to the rear hull side - enough to knock out the engine.

If the idea behind the model is to show the drama of the escaping crew, I think I’d probably go for something more obvious myself, like the mine detonation someone suggested.

 

[Mini Me]

I'll sit next to John, Matron has entrusted me with his meds...he's very excitable around
Soviet armor.
Cheers, Rick H.

 

[SteveH]

Morning Peter

Love the choices you have made, I have 2 T 34's on the 2019 build schedule, I think I have at least one escape set of figures somewhere in the attic insulation too.

For an action set, they are all related, unlike the majority you buy which will have at least 1 of 4 figures doing something totally unrelated to the others!

You really are pushing your eyes with the painting, though I am sure the armour build will be a therapeutic and relaxing one, before the figures get painted.

Now you have ventured back into armour and Soviet too, there are a multitude of references already on the blog.

May I add my 2 pennies?

The figure box art would better support a mine strike at the front end, whilst charging into the fray with the panzers.

Drivers side, track off, one less to glue up, though with the Christie suspension, not a mass of sagging to recreate. on the other side.

Damage can be limited to burned paintwork and perhaps a wheel or idler damaged/blackened at the front next to the driver.

Just a thought.

Hopefully the T 34 will arrive soon.

Before the cold snap which should be here tomorrow.

Have a good day with the glue

Regards

Steve H

 

[Deleted member 6559]

Peter - I did think of having the thing stuck in a tank trap, but that would mean a complicated base. It's an option. I'm scared of the figures, mainly because of the eyesight issue, but a little, often, should see me through.

Monica - Welcome aboard.

Jim - Ditto.

Jakko - The figures will provide the story, though the mine theory is gaining ground.

Rick - If you could keep the Comrade sedated......

Steve - I'm beginning to wonder about this one. What seemed like a simple idea is beginning to get complicated. I'm not a confident modeller and am worried that depicting a lot of damage may be beyond me. The mine idea is a good one, but what will suffice? a crater, then a separated track and a bit of twisted fender? Would the mine blacken the paintwork? The idea of a couple of hits to the side of the hull would be a lot easier. Anyway, we'll see.

Hope the physio is sorting out the pain.

 

[Mickc1440]

If you want to keep it relatively simple then a broken track and damaged sprocket, but a simple hole in the vicinity of the engine compartment is even simpler and no complicated base. Just my thoughts

 

[BigGreg]

can't wait to see this build...

 

[Jakko]

The mine idea is a good one, but what will suffice? a crater, then a separated track and a bit of twisted fender? Would the mine blacken the paintwork?

The tank would probably have more extensive damage than that from an anti-tank mine, but if you were to model damage to the first roadwheel’s tyre, you could claim it hit an anti-personnel mine that broke the track. Given the location, I don’t think there would be much damage from the blast to the front mudguard, but that could easily get crumpled up or ripped off by the track as it comes loose and off the tank.

In any case, with a broken track, don’t forget the tank would continue to run forward until the last couple of roadwheels come off the track, and the remains of the track get piled up at the front. Since the T-34’s drive wheel is at the rear, at the very least the track’s upper run would remain on the tank (unlike with American or German tanks, where it could come completely off at the front).

 

[spanner570]

Good Grief, poor Peter!

Why have a damaged tank in the first place?

All well meaning I'm sure, but mind boggling advice and technical suggestions. Particularly as it's not really your field of model making.

Why start to worry about attempting something that you are not, for whatever reason, totally happy in having a go at?

This lark is supposed to be relaxing fun.

To avoid any more troubled thoughts about how you are going to tackle the build, and keeping in mind the figures are going to be 'Centre Stage' just show the tank as a simple back drop, undamaged and having simply run out of fuel and one crew member has simply twisted his ankle whilst abandoning the tank.

Job done and no need to get a sweat on worrying about it any more. Keep it simple......

Trust me, I'm a Doctor.

Your Servant.
Dr. Hawley Harvey Crippin

 

[minitnkr]

You're on the attack & the engine craps out & won't restart. What do you do? Bail out of this ripe target & become infantry! PaulE

 

[spanner570]

You're on the attack & the engine craps out & won't restart. What do you do? Bail out of this ripe target & become infantry! PaulE

Great minds........and all that!

Nice and easy does it every time.....I can feel a song coming on.

 

[Deleted member 6559]

Hold your horses people - this one is ABANDONED!!!!!!!!

My fault for buying a cheap and early kit - it turned out to be a complete pile of rubbish.

These are the sprue shots:



As you can see, really horrible vinyl tracks and the kit configured for the fitting of a motor. There were huge open spaces under the fender and around the drive sprockets and the whole thing had a lot of flash.

I started it none-the-less. The hubs for the wheels were polythene and designed to allow the wheels to turn, but the wheels themselves fitted quite badly. The problem came when fitting the tracks. A metal axle was provided for the idlers, but the holes left for fitting an RC engine around the drive sprockets left the whole thing very weak and depending on the back plate for taking the strain. Needless to say, it just would not hold - the tracks were very tight and pulled the drive wheels forward and pulled the hull sides from the back plate.

I resorted to some bracing:


I also needed to add extra metal rods to the axle holes as that also pulled out of place. It all worked more or less, but when I fitted the deck there were huge gaps around the rear hull top where it met the back plate due to the tight track distorting the side plates. I tried to do something about these, but really the whole business was getting ridiculous and I decided to call it a day.

A better modeller than I may have relished the challenges this one posed and it probably would have responded to some tough love (and new tracks), but such things are way out of my comfort zone and the fun had ceased long ago.

I was also a little disappointed in the figures, so I will drop those also.

Sorry people!

 

[scottie3158]

That's a pity Peter but its your call, so what's next on the agenda you have to do something you got us salivating lol.

 

[Steve Jones]

Bummer!! Never mind Peter. Back to the figure work

 

[Jim R]

Win some, loose some. As Steve says "Back to the figure work"
Jim

 

[Jakko]

All well meaning I'm sure, but mind boggling advice and technical suggestions.

I’m sometimes amazed at the way modellers wave away basic, easy to achieve realism on the basis that it’s “too complicated.”

Particularly as it's not really your field of model making.

In which case, technical advice is all the more useful in order to get it right.

You're on the attack & the engine craps out & won't restart. What do you do?

Become a pillbox, because the nice, friendly, neighbourhood NKVD officer has reminded you that Comrade Stalin isn’t entirely comfortable with the idea of soldiers retreating in the face of the enemy?

 

[Deleted member 6559]

Thread closed!!!!!!