SimonT - Hobbyboss 1/35 Russian T-18 Light Tank

[SimonT]

The bases are continuing to dry out - so far there is no cracking or obvious shrinkage

 

[MikeC]

I tried to use Celluclay on a recent base I put small pins all over the base as a key and followed the destructions, left it to dry and the damn stuff still wanted to fold up. Aha!!! thought I, mix in a dollop of white glue to the mix - even worse. So it is tetrion for me from now on over a thin core of foam. But watching and taking notes....
Mike.

 

[JR]

From reading up on the uses of plasters and other wall fillers for dio's, the main concern with railway modelling is weight from them .
Looking at the various videos of DIY versions of basically a paper mache a lot of them look really good, but they all lack the cellulose which is in Sculptamould. This seems to be the constituent that allows time to shape and smooth out. The casting plasters of course dry out so quickly, so even adding the paper to then to lighten would be pointless.
My trial with normal wall fillers , mixed in equal amounts volume wise and a spot of pva seems to have worked for small areas of debri.
Off this morning to look up the prices of Sculptamould.

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Admittedly my use of it for Tracy Island was not as critical as we require with our stuff but I don't remember any issues apart from the drying out time.
I would definitely use it again

 

[minitnkr]

I used plywood profiles, old nylon window screen, & wallpaper paste soaked craft paper for the base & drywall finishing plaster for stone outcroppings on my early RR layouts. I still use the screen & topping compound for crowned roadways today. Weight has not been an issue w/this method nor has cracking/shrinking, even when left in an unheated garage for several years. The last few dios have used packing foam & foam board as the base w/topping compound as a finish. Not thrilled w/foam board. Prolly my fault. PaulE

 

[JR]

I used plywood profiles, old nylon window screen, & wallpaper paste soaked craft paper for the base & drywall finishing plaster for stone outcroppings on my early RR layouts. I still use the screen & topping compound for crowned roadways today. Weight has not been an issue w/this method nor has cracking/shrinking, even when left in an unheated garage for several years. The last few dios have used packing foam & foam board as the base w/topping compound as a finish. Not thrilled w/foam board. Prolly my fault. PaulE

Paul there seem to be two types, polystyrene or polyurethane. The later is the best for modelling, easier to peel the paper off and takes impressions better as it is a close cell construction.

 

[minitnkr]

Can you tell me how to visually discriminate between the two? PaulE

 

[SimonT]

For those of you that like watching paint dry, here is the next best thing


base is drying nicely

 

[JR]

Am I sad or what but that is great !

 

[SimonT]

I think we are on to a winner with this stuff John

 

[SimonT]

Definite success with the Sculptamold - dried nice and solid with no shrinkage

Covered the stream bed with Javis sand Monday night

When I got home from work yesterday I stuck some pre-made tufts to the top of the base edges to form low bushes then mixed up some AK rough earth paste with Russian earth, brown and black pigments. This was then knifed it on to the base.

Used a paintbrush to spread the paste around and cover the slope and upper areas being careful to push it around the tufty bushes and not over them

Then I plonked the T18 into the paste to get a good sit into the ground

Sprinkled the rest of the paste with Javis field scatter and dabbed it with a sponge to make sure some of it stays put

As the paste dried out I worked some rough areas into the track using an AK brass toothpick

I found the missing track link the other day so glued it to a length of sprue and pushed that into the ground in an attempt to make some track impressions - didn't work too well as it just got clogged with paste

 

[Steve Jones]

Well the base has certainly come out a treat. Looks like you are onto a winner there. The tank certainly looks the part. Great stuff all round sir.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Base is looking great, might have to look into that sculptamold myself now that I've started doing a few.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Simon
Sounds like that stuff is worth using. I suppose you do need a good solid base to prevent the curving which Mike mentioned.
Looks good.
Jim

 

[JR]

Very nice Simon
Have ordered, 2 nd bag arrived, first one never turned up so now in dispute as the seller doesn't respond to messages

 

[SimonT]

This one has been progressing slowly in the background

It is nearly there now so will be revealed in the not too distant future........

 

[SimonT]

this ugly monkey is the pilot for the T18

cobbled him together from Miniart Russian villager hat and torso with a modified Hornet head

looks a little better at normal size and once ensconced inside the T18 will be barely visible so I think he will be ok

 

[JR]

I like the jacket detail Simon. Red star required on hat

 

[SimonT]

Thanks John - face not brilliant though Didn't find many reference photos for early Russian tankers. One with that style of noggin cover didn't appear to have a star on it

Well, you will no doubt be glad to know that I am finally calling this one finished



Happy Christmas one and all

 

[JR]

Morning Simon.
Love the whole idea, works really well coming out of the water like that. The colour of the water and the detail with the water pouring off the rear
The ice worked out well, looks very churned up, you must be pleased with that .

Re the badge, at that time probably the badge was the last thing on the agenda !