Soldering Photo-Etch

Jon Heptonstall

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Hello all.
I want to get a basic soldering outfit for larger PE assemblies.I've never done any soldering before.Does anybody have any recommendations and/or useful tips?
Thanks.
Jon.
 

Tim Marlow

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Antex irons are best in my opinion. I would also use Carr’s 145 degrees solder and a liquid flux. Stay away from electrical cored solder, that will just make the job hard. You will also need a glass fibre scratch brush to clean surfaces before soldering. Cleanliness is next to godliness in this case. Look at the Carr’s site for information. They are the premier modelling solder suppliers in the UK.
 

Jon Heptonstall

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Cheers Tim.
At least I've got a glass fibre pen so that's a start.
Jon.
 

Jakko

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And practice on scrap bits of brass before trying the kit parts :smiling3:
 

Tim Marlow

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Sorry Jon, I was pushed for time earlier.
This is the Carr’s site
This is the solder
...and this is the flux...put it on with an old paintbrush.

The best irons are these, in my opinion....

Obviously look around for best prices.
To clean down afterwards I found cheap cream cleaner and an old toothbrush or stiff brush was best.

If you need more just ask
Cheers
Tim
 

Jon Heptonstall

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Thanks a lot Tim
very useful info.I'll get cracking and let you know.
jakko- lots of brass cut offs to practice on!
Jon
 
D

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I'd definitely suggest practice too.

I bought the exact same products (Tim has recommended them before) and still haven't managed to stick two pieces together yet.

I've given it up as a bad job for now and gone back to glue. Will try again some other time.
 

stillp

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I was in electronics for a few decades, and always preferred Weller soldering irons. The main thing (after cleanliness) is to remember that it's the work that should melt the solder, not the iron.
Pete
 
D

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This is the low temerature paste I use.

Has lots of bits & pieces to put the paste where you need it

To set it off I use a hot air gun using passes ( not full on ) until the paste give up & forms a solder joint. Definetly do not blast it with heat.

All very easy stuff but just practice is needed to get the technique.

The staircase for a SeaKing was all constructed using low temperature solder.
1617218241905.jpeg

Great advanatge yoy can sand & shape . Used to use C/A for this type of construction.

Also make a muck heat it up & it falls apart.

LAurie
 

Tim Marlow

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True Pete. With the 145 solder you need to put in far less energy so it’s really easy to get the joint to flow through properly. Antex irons have a tips that are easier to change and they heat the tips from the inside so the working end is not as unwieldy for fine scale work. Weller irons are better for electrical work because they hold a heat reservoir better for the 250 DegC cored solder used. They are therefore a bit chunky like the old Solon models.
 

Tim Marlow

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Nice job Laurie. Solder paste (or cream) with a resistance soldering unit was the go-to high end tool in railway loco and coach building back in the nineties......not even sure if you can buy resistance soldering units these days.....I couldn’t afford one then.
 

minitnkr

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A friend uses the propane powered small soldering iron for surface mount components. Would prolly work great on PE. Very small tip and no wires. PaulE
 
D

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My little set up for low temp. stuff.

The heat gun is a dremel 2000. beauty of it is that you can set the temperature. Works on butane.

Working with all of this is very satisfying & adds a dimension to model making. Much better than yucky C/A.

Laurie

1617219184406.png
 
D

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Actually Paul you should not be touching the low temp solder. It is air heat which sends it off. You have to keep moving the heat source all the time to avoid buckling the PE.

Also needs a heat source with a wide arc if possible as this disipates the heat over larger areas. Fascinating to watch as you wait & all of a sudden melts & that is it.
It is a fabulous way to construct PE.

Another advantage

When you fold a piece the joints & corners always show a gap. Low Temp Solder fills those & are sandable to a good finish.
The left picture on the outside the other on the inside with the solder joints.

Laurie

1617219910106.jpeg
 

Tim Marlow

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That all looks great Laurie. Interesting that the PE can buckle though, that’s usually a sign of putting too much heat into the joint. What temp are you running the heat gun at? I wonder if you might get more controllable results with a higher temperature and a narrower jet. The low melt should flow like butter then, almost like waving a magic wand down the joint.
 
D

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That all looks great Laurie. Interesting that the PE can buckle though, that’s usually a sign of putting too much heat into the joint. What temp are you running the heat gun at? I wonder if you might get more controllable results with a higher temperature and a narrower jet. The low melt should flow like butter then, almost like waving a magic wand down the joint.
No idea at what temp Tim. Just set it after practice. Should be about 130c with the solder I use. But heat depends a lot on you distance from the piece.. Just spray the heat 7 found this works.. Like all things model making you get your own technique.

Laurie
 
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