Straight lines

[Gern]

Maybe we've gone off on a tangent here guys. When I said straight lines, I didn't mean pinstripes or coachlines. I meant straight lines as in the demarcation lines between colours like Ron showed on his recent brush painted Lancaster, and:

I got some buildings I need to paint (pics soon) and they have lots of window frames. Even though there is a step between the frames and the surface of the wall, I can't paint straight enough to stop the frame paint going on the wall and/or the wall paint creeping up the frame.

My apologies if my earlier post wasn't clear enough.

 

[Tim Marlow]

I did wonder......
To paint what you have just described takes correct paint consistency, a good brush with a point, and some technique.
Correct paint consistency should flow off of the brush easily, but not flood out as soon as you touch the model.
For painting this I would use a number 0 or 1 brush (or even a good quality 1/4 inch flat) with a good sharp point. Anything smaller will not hold enough paint and make this harder than it needs to be.
Paint the wall first. Don’t worry about overpainting the frame, that will be corrected when the frame is painted.
Paint the frame. To do this, use the edge (not the point) of the good brush. To stop paint flooding off as soon as you touch the model, dip it in the paint, then unload the brush by painting a couple of strokes on some A4 paper, or the back of you left thumb....this is important, it will make the painting action much more controllable as the paint will now only be released by the brush when you paint.
Lastly, use “stock” paint straight out of the bottle without mixing if possible. You can the go around again tidying up any of the inevitable over painting by using the same colour And be sure it matches.
If you’re feeling flash, you can pin wash the junction between the frame and the wall (but only that bit, don’t pin wash the whole thing and turn it muddy) to make the frame “pop”.

 

[Jakko]

To stop paint flooding off as soon as you touch the model, dip it in the paint, then unload the brush by painting a couple of strokes on some A4 paper, or the back of you left thumb...

Or, if you have put the paint onto a palette (like when you’re using paint from a dropper bottle), just use an empty area of that same palette.

 

[Gern]

Hate to say this guys but I do all that already. It's my shaky hand that causes the paint to wander off line. I can mask the outside of the frames but the inside recessed frames are too small (around 3x4mm) for me to measure so I'd have to do all the masking by trial and error. That wouldn't be so bad for one window but I got dozens of individual window panes to go round on the four buildings I have so far - and I've ordered another half a dozen.

 

[minitnkr]

Paint the windows before glazing & mounting. PaulE

 

[spanner570]

Chaps, It's not the various painting methods Dave needs help with, it's his "Shaky Hands." that are the problem!

Dave, forgetting masking for a minute. I'm wondering if the speed of application might have something to do with the shakes?

Members will have a good laugh I'm sure, but consider this truth. When concentrating on a precise bit of painting, i.e a straight line, the heart rate increases. If the painter messes about too much, the rate increase and the shakes can occur. Try this. get a pencil and paper and very,very slowly draw a straight line. Your hand will start to wobble. This is messing about! Now do the same exercise, but draw the line with some purpose. Straight as a dye!

Try the same deliberate quick action with your brush. your hand won't shake. It works with my painting, so might be worth a try

 

[Tim Marlow]

Sorry Dave, didn’t realise this was the issue.....
You could try a paint shield....basically a piece of thin plastic sheet or foil that fits into the aperture and can be used to protect the area not needing paint. It’s simpler than masking but make sure you clean it between placings or when you move it to the next aperture you may put unwanted paint onto it...

 

[bobnv]

Doh, Tim is spot on, I didn't even think about it because of just getting back into modeling, I have used this in other venues for years., and it is a staple item in commercial/house painters tool bags. Couple pieces around .2mm (did I do that right? or 1/16 inch) thinner is even better, one short length around maybe 10cm for curved apps and one maybe 20cm for straight flat apps. Key is to make sure that you keep the shield vertical so that paint doesn't bleed under and don't push into the shield work straight down and move fast and yes practice safe model hygiene clean it every time you move it.
Spanner has a good point about the heart rate, so prior to painting take two Prozac or four Gin and Tonic, and you will not care if the line is straight or not.

 

[Gern]

Ok guys. There's a couple of ideas for me to play with thanks.

I'd already thought of faster painting after your recent Lancaster post Ron. Makes sense to get the paint spread out quickly so it can level itself before starting to dry, and I can draw straighter lines if I'm quicker with the pencil. I guess with a bit of practise I can get them to go in the direction I want. Certainly worth a go with camo lines and the outside of my window frames - certainly save a lot of masking. Bit tricky to do inside a tiny frame with a fixed length though so I think Tim's idea may be a better option for that bit.

I did have a thought myself (Shock! Horror! Gasp!). The brushes that I'm using have seen better days so I'll break out some new ones and see if that helps.

If I post completed pics of my buildings you'll know summat worked!

I think once this Covid thing is starting to clear up, I'll get myself down to my local quack and see if he can identify a cause and cure for my shakes. Not holding out much hope though. I saw him a few years ago about arthritis in my knee. He put me on a course of medication which sent all my liver and kidney functions off the chart! I had to spend nearly three months doing weekly blood tests and visits to a specialist to get it sorted. I don't got a lot of faith in him!

Or maybe I'll try a more traditional remedy for nerves - when the pubs re-open!

 

[minitnkr]

In my state of Ohio liquor stores are considered essential, therefore open for business. PaulE

 

[bobnv]

In my state of Ohio liquor stores are considered essential, therefore open for business. PaulE

Can be there in 35 hours if i only stop for gas and loo, am packing as i type, ready for this, in Nevada liquor stores are closed, can't even do curbside pickup, fortunatly most food stores have nice liquor departments and Costco doesn't have toilet paper but the booze is stacked to the ceiling , good to go, come to think of it i can't even buy paint to get started on my modeling resurrection debut, hobbys are closed

 

[Jakko]

around .2mm (did I do that right? or 1/16 inch)

The definition of an inch is 25.4 mm exactly, which means that 1/16 inch is about 1.5 mm, so you either meant .2 cm or 2 mm

 

[Jakko]

In my state of Ohio liquor stores are considered essential,

“You can use it as hand sanitizer in emergencies! We can stay open, right?”

 

[Gern]

“You can use it as hand sanitizer in emergencies! We can stay open, right?”

I can't get the idea of a virus with a hangover out of my head - and that's all your fault Jakko!!

 

[adt70hk]

If it's a narrow straight line - like the boot topping at a ship's waterline, then you can use decal trim film - this is a sheet of solid colour, that you can cut to any shape & apply like a standard decal - you can get it in most standard colours.................
Dave

Dave

Thanks for the tip on this interesting to know about and I can think of a number of uses for it.

All the best.

Andrew

 

[Dave Ward]

Andrew,
Hannants seem to have the best selection................................TRIM FILM
Dave

 

[bobnv]

The definition of an inch is 25.4 mm exactly, which means that 1/16 inch is about 1.5 mm, so you either meant .2 cm or 2 mm

Ya, one of those

 

[Gern]

Paint the windows before glazing & mounting. PaulE

Sorry Paul. I didn't spot this when going through the replies.

The windows in question are already moulded into the buildings. I suppose I could cut them out and find suitable replacements, and if these were simple plastic buildings I would seriously consider that, but they're resin which is 4 - 5 mm thick. I fear removing them would be a huge task.

 

[Bugatti Fan]

Good art shops sell high quality designers brushes that have longer hairs than the norm that we see for model making.

Regarding masking tape....The Tamiya brand is good and aimed at model makers.
Another type of masking tape I came across is sold in Wilko's. It is named Washi Masking Tape and is red and much thinner than standard masking tape. Cuts into strips easily when placed onto glass as well.

 

[JR]

Chaps, It's not the various painting methods Dave needs help with, it's his "Shaky Hands." that are the problem!

Dave, forgetting masking for a minute. I'm wondering if the speed of application might have something to do with the shakes?

Members will have a good laugh I'm sure, but consider this truth. When concentrating on a precise bit of painting, i.e a straight line, the heart rate increases. If the painter messes about too much, the rate increase and the shakes can occur. Try this. get a pencil and paper and very,very slowly draw a straight line. Your hand will start to wobble. This is messing about! Now do the same exercise, but draw the line with some purpose. Straight as a dye!

Try the same deliberate quick action with your brush. your hand won't shake. It works with my painting, so might be worth a try

I get the shakes when Matron appears 570 !


Sorry Dave.
Can see your problem, painting windows is always a problem and that gap with the inset of the window into the opening is hard because of the angle. I struggle with depth of field, the longer you stare the worse it becomes. Think 570 has the answer. Always worth a try.