boatman
SMF Supporter
OK Paul will have a look
chris
chris
Tamiya 1/16 RC Panther (resumed after a long hiatus)
- Thread starter tr1ckey66
- Start date
Hi Chris
Here's the pics of the camo I promised. I only managed to get the markings painted on to the one side so there's still a little bit to do. Also the light for photography isn't ideal today.
It's easy to feel a little bit jittery about the work at this point, as the paint job is at it's most garish. After some fading though I'm confident that everything will be 'tied together'.
About the camouflage...
There's not a lot of the camouflage that can be seen from period photographs. The only parts that are visible are parts of the schurtzen and some of the rear plate. I took those 2 areas as 'typical' and tried to expand that 'style' to the entire tank. What you see is the result.
I'm back at work now, so no more updates for a while, but hopefully next time I'll have both turret numbers and national crosses on and then I can move on to weathering and finishing up.
Thanks for looking
P
Here's the pics of the camo I promised. I only managed to get the markings painted on to the one side so there's still a little bit to do. Also the light for photography isn't ideal today.
It's easy to feel a little bit jittery about the work at this point, as the paint job is at it's most garish. After some fading though I'm confident that everything will be 'tied together'.
About the camouflage...
There's not a lot of the camouflage that can be seen from period photographs. The only parts that are visible are parts of the schurtzen and some of the rear plate. I took those 2 areas as 'typical' and tried to expand that 'style' to the entire tank. What you see is the result.
I'm back at work now, so no more updates for a while, but hopefully next time I'll have both turret numbers and national crosses on and then I can move on to weathering and finishing up.
Thanks for looking
P
Last edited:
boatman
SMF Supporter
HI Paul fab work on the camo i really like it as it must have been hard to do AN TO ME ITS LOOKS REAL AN THE GERMAN CROSSES IS THAT REALLY WHERE THEY PUT THEM AS ALL THAT HULL AN THEY HAVE SQEZZED THEM ON THE FRONT REALLY WEIRD THAT TO ME BUT IF IT RIGHT THEN THATS IT BRILLIANT WORK MY FREIND
ALL BEST CHRIS PS SORRY ABOUT CAPS MY PC IS HAVIN A FUNNY TURN
Thanks Chris
Yes, that’s the correct position for the crosses. There’s not that much room left on the side of a Panther when you have all the tools and the spare tracks on. Also, I think that it’s preferable to have the crosses as far forward as poss for recognition purposes.
It’s fine about the caps lock Chiris but it does make it read LIKE YOU’RE SHOUTING EVERYTHING!!!! damned computers!
Cheers
Paul
boatman
SMF Supporter
HI Paul whats hapenin on him now must be nr done now an'it it?
chris
chris
I may be able to finish it tomorrow and upload pics on Friday, if all goes well.
Almost there.
Cheers
P
boatman
SMF Supporter
OK PAUL look forward to the pics an lets see him out on the assult course goin threw his paces
chris
chris
Almost (but not quite) finished...
I thought I'd to have this finished today, but that just isn't going to happen. Instead, here's an update of where the Panther is now.
Another accuracy issue:
After a double check with my references, I realised that the sockets or 'pilse' for the jib crane needed to be deleted, as these were first added in June of '44.
Before...
After...
I also added a small reinforcement strut to the rear lifting point
Right hand side tools finished
Left hand tools finished
What is underneath damaged Zimmerit?
I've been studying the photographs of Panther 135 to try and find out what was showing underneath the damaged Zimm. I have seen various models go with red oxide primer as the base colour underneath, but I'm not convinced by this at all. To try and determine if this was correct I decided to do some experiments. I painted the front glacis damaged Zimm in this fashion and then rotated the model (it's now on a revolving cake stand) to catch different lighting angles, to see if I could replicate what is seen in the wartime photographs.
You can see that in the period photographs (below)that the damaged missing Zimm is much lighter than the surrounding areas.
Is this sunlight reflecting off a metal surface? Is it a thin layer/residue of the damaged Zimm still clinging to the hull?
I'm convinced the answer isn't red oxide primer. I'm going to go with a thin chalky residue of the Zimm and paint out the red oxide experiment.
If anyone has compelling evidence as to what this should be then please do comment.
And so we get on to why I won't be finishing for some time yet - chipping! One of the many layers of weathering involves chipping paint and I always do my chipping with a brush (not a sponge) as I feel it gives a more controlled and realistic finish. The downside is it takes FOREVER!!!!
I think the whole tank will take me (realistically) around a week to chip in this way but I don't want to rush this.
After the chipping will come pin washing, filters, pigments, dust, rust etc, etc
I reckon it will take 2 weeks to complete these stages and then Panther 135 will be finished. And so I'm going to end this build thread now and post the final pics in the finished armour section when complete.
Many thanks to all that have followed the thread I hope you like the finished pics.
Cheers
Paul
I thought I'd to have this finished today, but that just isn't going to happen. Instead, here's an update of where the Panther is now.
Another accuracy issue:
After a double check with my references, I realised that the sockets or 'pilse' for the jib crane needed to be deleted, as these were first added in June of '44.
Before...
After...
I also added a small reinforcement strut to the rear lifting point
Right hand side tools finished
Left hand tools finished
What is underneath damaged Zimmerit?
I've been studying the photographs of Panther 135 to try and find out what was showing underneath the damaged Zimm. I have seen various models go with red oxide primer as the base colour underneath, but I'm not convinced by this at all. To try and determine if this was correct I decided to do some experiments. I painted the front glacis damaged Zimm in this fashion and then rotated the model (it's now on a revolving cake stand) to catch different lighting angles, to see if I could replicate what is seen in the wartime photographs.
You can see that in the period photographs (below)that the damaged missing Zimm is much lighter than the surrounding areas.
Is this sunlight reflecting off a metal surface? Is it a thin layer/residue of the damaged Zimm still clinging to the hull?
I'm convinced the answer isn't red oxide primer. I'm going to go with a thin chalky residue of the Zimm and paint out the red oxide experiment.
If anyone has compelling evidence as to what this should be then please do comment.
And so we get on to why I won't be finishing for some time yet - chipping! One of the many layers of weathering involves chipping paint and I always do my chipping with a brush (not a sponge) as I feel it gives a more controlled and realistic finish. The downside is it takes FOREVER!!!!
I think the whole tank will take me (realistically) around a week to chip in this way but I don't want to rush this.
After the chipping will come pin washing, filters, pigments, dust, rust etc, etc
I reckon it will take 2 weeks to complete these stages and then Panther 135 will be finished. And so I'm going to end this build thread now and post the final pics in the finished armour section when complete.
Many thanks to all that have followed the thread I hope you like the finished pics.
Cheers
Paul
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boatman
SMF Supporter
HI Paul well he looks great an very real to me brilliant model
chris
chris