Tamiya 1/24 ASTON MARTIN DBS mini blog

M

m1ks

Guest
Just another bit on the BRG to explain myself.

I wasn't implying it was the wrong colour for the car and is indeed typical of many modern Astons, the first full side view you show does look paler than the aston colour shown on the race car and accessory sunglass holder though but then a lot of that is down to colour representation on PC monitors, now mines calibrated with a hardware and software device as I do photo related stuff and accurate colour is important as what you print needs to be what you see on screen.

(get a multi varied picture on your screen, print it and see what I mean, without calibration the colours are all over the shop) of course this doesn't fix incorrectly calibrated and profiled images already on the net.

However, I digress.

I merely meant that when I hear BRG, I think brunswick shade solid colour, clearly theres been much poetic license on the shade over the years, anyone whos a fan of 'the prisoner', (the original not the travesty currently airing), will notice that the BRG Lotus 7 n the final episode, fallout, was a slightly paler than the 'of old' BRG, (interestingly most people incorrectly assume the Lotus in the prisoner was BRG / yellow, it was in fact Black / Yellow in all but the last episode as lotus had sold the demonstrator used in every episode prior to the final one hence the quick mock up and another pointless but interesting point is the fella delivering the Lotus in fallout and giving it a quick polish is Graham Nearns of Caterham who'd taken over Lotus' 7 production, he'd driven the car to the studio himself which had been hastily prepared as the demonstrator had been sold abroad).

I'm Planning on doing a prisoner themed 7 on the Tamiya Lotus 7 kit I have waiting and fully expect to be told frequently I have the wrong colour when it's painted Black / Yellow.

But anyway, my comment was merely that I don't particularly like the chosen colour, correct or not, (have to say my favourite Aston colour is the dark gunmetal grey they do but know it's not correct for a racing model)

Ultimately i'll still be following this build with interest as I do like Car and Bike models as said and when alls said and done if you like the colour then that's all the matters.
 
R

Richy C

Guest
Hi m1ks , its all about opinions and debates its a great way to learn in my eyes , I think I`ve misled a lot of people so apoligies all round after checking the hiroboy site the colour discription says Aston Martin racing green not Aston Martin British racing green oops sorry guys ,

Glad to have you along m1ks please keep them opions coming , I do like the Lotus 7`s it would be great if you shared your build with us on here

Cheers

Richy
 
M

m1ks

Guest
No problem, I just didn't want to appear that I was being picky.

I will gladly try to do a regular blog when I get around to the Lotus, have been wracking my brains to figure out a way of getting the silver on black reg plates but frankly unsure, does anyone do 1:24 scale white or silver letter and number decals?

Am currently still finishing my Satrun V a 1:72 scale Hurricane, (cheap off ebay, built one as a kid and couldn't resist) and though unplanned am now building a 1:72 scale FW190D (also cheap off ebay) as my wee boy saw me unwrap it and desperately wanted to help me build it so i'm working through the build with him, keeping it as simple as I can but trying to instill the importance of patience in him, (so far, OK, as long as I don't leave him unattended with the kit glue and paint.
 
R

Richy C

Guest
Just a quick update and a few photos , although I`ve done a bit of paint and airbrush work on a few bits and pieces today they are not really worth showing at this stage but I have base coated the main bodywork , my photograpy skills don`t do the finnish justice but to the naked eye the paint work looks fantastic , I know I keep going on about zero paints but it does truly give a great finnish only 2 issues the stuff stinks so a spray booth is now on the to get list when finances permit , also once the basecoat is done treat it like a new born baby it will chip and mark very easy untill you get a few gloss/satin top coats on

even though Zero AB paint is solvent based it drys very quick , it says airbrush ready on the bottle but I still add a little bit of zero thinners , to get an even finnish I bluetacked to front fender onto the bodywork then put the bonnet in place after that I gave it about 5-6 very light coats , I know the colour is not eveyones cup of tea but the metalic finnish looks amazing

Cheers

Richy

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F

Fenlander

Guest
That looks gorgeous doesn't it? I have just looked at the full size version of pic two and the surface looks flawless. Coming on very nicely Richy. I want my mountain bike in that colour, love it.
 
1

17741907

Guest
Great work there Richy...I'll follow.... :smiling3:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ARMOURED FIGHTING VEHICLE
 
R

Richy C

Guest
Cheers Graham , I`ve bitten the bullet and ordered a few alclad paints its not cheap but hopefuly like you mentioned they will make a vast improvement over the tamiya metalics , I`ve ordered magnesium , hot metal violet , aluminium , and chrome ,

a quick question I know with the chrome it has to go over a black gloss , with the magnisium and aluminium is it the same or can you go straight over primmer

welcome to the forum 177 , glad to have you following

hope to do a bit more this afternoon

Richy
 
F

Fenlander

Guest
As far as I know, you only need to use a gloss black primer to get the highest chrome effect from the chrome. Any can be used over any primer but will not have the edge that a gloss black will give.

There are experienced Alclad users on here so I would hang on to get a definitive answer to this one.
 
R

Richy C

Guest
Hi guys , little update , bodywork has had 3 clear miscoats and and today gave the panel lines a wash with promodellers wash , hope to get another couple of miscoats on tomorrow to seal it in then its the wet coat which is scaring the life out of me , as much as I`ve praised the zero stuff the clear coat is pre-thinned and wet , I`m not very experienced with this AB game , wish me luck its make or break time in the next few days

I highly recommend the promodellers wash for anyone who has not tried it , I used to use mig washes but not any more after using this stuff its great stuff

Richy

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F

Fenlander

Guest
That is one stunning looking body you have there Richy :emo1:
 

tr1ckey66

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Is Graham making a pass at you Richy:flower: ???

Just kiddin' Graham, someone was bound to pick up on a statement like that!

...But Graham is right, that paint finish looks superb, makes me want to try building a car.

Really looking forward to seeing this complete.

I once did some graphic design work for Aston and was invited down to their Newport Pagnell factory. This was a while ago and things may have changed but it was really quite quaint and very British. The engines were completed on one side of the road to then be transported to other side of the road for the coachfitting, and as you can expect service was of the utmost importance. If memory serves me right some engines have a plate mounted on them telling you the mechanic that worked on it (that may have been a special service though). I have a brochure that I designed on the 6.3 litre Virage and Volante conversions - really nice cars.

Good luck with the rest of it I know this is gonna be good:thumbsup:

Paul
 

Ian M

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Looking really rather good Richard.

And yes the colour looks good to. Aston Martin racing Green. jep say so on the bottle don't it!!! LOL. No sign of the Kebab yet !

Looking forwards to seeing the shiny stuff.

Ian M
 
R

Richy C

Guest
Hi Ian , yep made a bit of fool of myself on that one mate ( the colour not the kebab ) , never mind I`m sure it won`t be the last time , DBS has come to a stop for the last few days the weather has been too nice in the UK been getting home from work and having a few beers in the garden , I hope to crack on over the weekend will post any updates then

Cheers

Richy
 
R

Richy C

Guest
Hi gents , feel I`ve gone a bit backwards on the bodywork , went as heavy as I thought I could go on the zero wet coats without messing up (2 coats) , did not look a lot different apart from sealing the wash and bonnet decal , when dry - on went the 3 pack zero polish in stages , bodywork is now very smooth but no more glossy , tomorrow I`m going over the panel lines again with a wash and leaving it as that ,

also moved the underside of the chassis on a bit , tamiya colours suggest semi gloss black and an aluminium which I done but it looked like a toy so I weathered it , not sure how realistic it is having never had an Aston let alone seen what the underside looks like , still got to pick out the exhausts which should fun , I reserve judgement on the zero polish at this stage

Richy

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F

Fenlander

Guest
Seems to be quite a lot of discussion on the web about how to use Zero products Richy. Interestingly, in their own downloadable PDF instructions the process is defined as primer, then a few coats of base colour dusted on then the clearcoat. I have read on the net that the 2K clearcoat, which sounds like a sprayable two part resin to me, is the trickiest to use as it is fairly fast drying, 30 mins) and requires very good clean up of airbrush and is harmful so requires a face mask/respirator. Although they say that this is the best clearcoat, they also say it is difficult to polish out and 'orange peel' effect as the material is so hard. The 1K clearcoat is recommended for inexperienced users.

It is the clearcoat that gets the final polishing, in effect you are polishing a resin coat above the colour base-coat rather than polishing the base-coat itself. Also interesting is that on their PDF instructions they say that:-

CLEARCOATING As mentioned earlier, the basecoat colours will dry with a Matt finish therefore MUST be clearcoated. For the ultimate shine and colour depth Zero Paints 2K (2 pack) High Solid Acrylic Clearcoat (Part No. ZP-3006) is recommended. Once the basecoat colour is fully dry you can clearcoat, this can sometimes be as quick as 30 minutes. Clearcoats will have their own instruction depending on the brand. The following brands of Clearcoats have also been tested without any issues: Tamiya TS13, Mr Hobby range (Mr Top Gloss etc) and Halfords Lacquer.
It would appear that any of the other branded clearcoats, in these cases gloss varnishes I would think, work well and would probably be easier to work with and should still polish, perhaps with a little more care as they will not be as hard as the zero paints resin clearcoats.
 
M

m1ks

Guest
It may be wortwhile, for ease of use as it already has a Lacquer topcoat on to use a spray can cellulose clearcoat, (halfords etc)?

Re the underside, simple, all you need do is get a trolley jack and couple of axle stands then have a drive around somewhere posh until you see the real thing, you then approach the owners door, axle stands and jack in hand and say, 'Scuse me matey, this may sound like an odd request but..........'

:emo6:

Looking nice BTW, still prefer the dark gray, bah humbug :smiling3:
 
F

Fenlander

Guest
As I get deeper into the bike,I have just primed the fairing, I have realised something so obvious I just didn't think abut it. However, I see you have a similar situation Richy. How are you (indeed are you) going to spray the inside without overspray on the outside? I have decided to spray the inside of the fairing first as any overspray getting inside will hardly be noticed (famous last words....)
 
R

Richy C

Guest
Hi all , had a bit of a setback last weekend after finnishing the bodywork was not happy with the gloss zero finnish also noticed a bit of wash on the doors I had missed , I fine sanded the gloss and gave it 2 miscoats of the base coat - at this stage it looked great unsure about using the zero gloss again I went for a vallejo gloss finnish , when dry it had hairs on it and felt like a heavy duty sandpaper, when dry again I went over the whole lot with a fine sanding stick it now feels as smooth as glass but it took about 3 hrs which is at the stage I`m now at , I have only two small issues to get over 1- protecting bonnet decal 2- scribing paint build up from the door handle areas , once done its getting 2 light basecoats and 2 light tamiya clear gloss coats - no more no less

I`ve moved on the rest of the kit but they all bits still needs a bit more work, photos show a small section , with the underside chassis I`ve weathered it a bit with washes and dry mig pigments , with the interior I started with tamiyas suggested colour but it was far to dark to show any details so its an area I`m still working on , will post pictures when I`m happy with the colour.

Richy

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