I’d rather have that than, say:Tank camo doesn't usually wrap around underneath , but I do see what you mean.
If you’re aiming for realism rather than artistic value, you may want to start with asking yourself how soft the edges are in the real world — in other words, how wide the soft edges to the camouflage would end up being on your model. I have no idea about USAF painting instructions, but for the camouflage shown above, the official rule (§28h on page 36) is that:—I still haven't decided how I'm going to go about it yet. I'd love to try freehand but with the ins and outs of areas like the engines and tail fins I'd have to be really careful about overspray.
… which for a 1/35 scale model would mean that the camouflage should appear hard-edged when viewed from more than about half a metre away (assuming average eyesight, anyway). You don’t actually see many models with camo that appears hard-edged from that distance but soft from closer by, though — most tend to have too soft edges to the blotches, or are completely hard-edged due to masking or hand-painting.overspray which can be discerned at 50 feet will be considered sloppy painting and will be corrected.
That appears to be fairly hard-edged:
I’m not one for pre-shading anyway I do like to add a darker colour into the panel lines, but only after painting the rest of the model, and by brush with thin paint or ink.I'm not yet ready to delve into pre-shading and other such effects so I can just base most of it up in the lightest green and add the darker colours where required.
I might be wrong Richard but I think that's probably the best way for me to learn. No point making it too easy for myselfAndy, the payload on a Warthog is mighty impressive...takes about as much time as the plane itself but if done well can look good. Some purists will get aftermarket ordnance with less clean up. But I guess you're the no nonsense get all hands dirty type and work on what you have.