D
Deleted member 7181
Guest
Maybe I should wait until you've practised building yours then pop over with mine. Should be a doddle in the larger size
Olive drab is (was originally?) made from black plus ochre pigments, so you may be able to mix a reasonable match from some black and medium brown paints.According to the instructions they should be XF-62 Olive Drab. Because I'm limited on colours I made something similar from US Camo Green and Model Air basic yellow.
White primer plus gloss varnish would probably be my choice, given how dark the plastic is.There are more to do but they are gloss white, so they'll have to wait until I have some of that.
That is looking very well, and certainly a big improvement on the kit parts.Then made a start on the GAU-8, which is pretty much what this bird is all about so I wanted it to look nice, which is why I opted for the PE. I'm sorry for the shocking photo but even this shows how much of an improvement it is over the standard kit lump of plastic.
I’m not really sure you can I use cocktail sticks, that I re-sharpen when glue builds up on the tip, and they work fine.Could do with finding something better than a sharpened lolly stick to apply it
That looks like a flange for bolting the upper and lower sections together. A bit of plastic strip would do the trick, but you’d need to buy some first.Wasn't sure how to recreate the seam though.
One thing I just thought of is that you’d want to try the primer on a bit of sprue from this kit first. Years ago, I was building this M113 TUA (TOW Under Armour):Cheers Jakko. I did contemplate primer & varnish. I have both so it might be a good shout and save me buying another product just yet.
The instructions for tank kits often describe how to make it, because they tell you to use it for antennas, but aircraft kit instructions are less likely toAnd thanks for the tip. I've seen plenty of mentions of stretched sprue. Now I know what they are talking about!
Sorry, I don’t think I explained well enough. What I was talking about is the colour of the plastic actually leaching into the primer, not just being visible through it. The black plastic of the track links was nice and white after one or two coats, but the green of the hull was still very pale green at that point. Looking closely at the paint it was clear that it had actually turned green a little.Yes, I have a similar problem in my day job. The hiding power (how it blots out the underlying colour) of whites is well below that of most other colours
That sounds like a trick to keep in mind.I have seen one YouTube modeller spraying a layer of silver over his primer if the plastic has a very different colour to his top coat, which will have a very similar effect.
The fins are supposed to be brass, right? You could have fooled me that you didn’t get the paint from a bottleAlso did some detail painting on one of the bombs. The colour scheme is a bit strange to say the least! Again I didn't have any of the right colour (gold) so made some up with silver, yellow & red.
Oh crumbs, hope that doesn't happen to mine!What I was talking about is the colour of the plastic actually leaching into the primer, not just being visible through it.
Yes, something like that. I've actually seen a few different colour schemes on Google images but decided to go with the box art version. And mixing colours is thankfully something that comes quite easily after all these years. Whilst most of it is computer aided these days I still often have to do a few subtle tweaks by eye to match a car that's been previously repaired, or badly weathered.The fins are supposed to be brass, right? You could have fooled me that you didn’t get the paint from a bottle
For FULL Forum access you can upgrade your account here UPGRADE