The Michael Rinaldio oil painting method.

[JR]

Steve's conversation with Andy about drying times when using oils promoted me to have a look at one Michael Rinaldio videos.
Certainly changed my ideas on working with oils.
A very informative video, thanks to Steve for mentioning it.

Did I hear him say you don't need to use varnish first ? at 32 seconds into the video !

 

[Wouter]

I use that technique for years now. It's very fun and also, a very forgiving technique, errors can be set straight easily because of the slower drying times. His books in combo with some youtube videos sure are very handy. And like him, I hardly use varnishes, except when I need to apply decals.

Cheers

 

[JR]

I use that technique for years now. It's very fun and also, a very forgiving technique, errors can be set straight easily because of the slower drying times. His books in combo with some you tube videos sure are very handy. And like him, I hardly use varnishes, except when I need to apply decals.

Cheers

Hi Wouts, I couldn't believe it when he said he did't use varnish before using oils. I don't know what acrylic paint brand he was referring to paint but I've been under the impression that we have to seal with a varnish before doing any weathering. Suppose using an acrylic varnish is no different from the original paint really.

 

[Steve Jones]

He is a promoter of Mission Model paints. As he uses very little agressive substances he does not feel the need for varnishes. I have Tank Art 1 and 4 editions which are well worth a read. There are a few more videos on YT if your interested

 

[colin m]

I've only been using oils for about a year but really like them lots. Having said that, I'm only touching the tip of the iceberg as far as techniques go.

 

[JR]

I've only been using oils for about a year but really like them lots. Having said that, I'm only touching the tip of the iceberg as far as techniques go.

Oh I agree completely Colin, as well as an ice burg I think a mine field as well .

 

[Wouter]

Hi Wouts, I couldn't believe it when he said he did't use varnish before using oils. I don't know what acrylic paint brand he was referring to paint but I've been under the impression that we have to seal with a varnish before doing any weathering. Suppose using an acrylic varnish is no different from the original paint really.

These days he uses Mission Models paints indeed but in the past he used Tamiya ones (like I do), Vallejo's and so on. In general the thinners to use to thin the oils a bit with or blend them in aren't really aggressive for the acrylic paints. It would be a different story when you apply this technique over enamel paints. For me personally adding a varnish layer is an extra potential stage to mess things up so I tend to skip that one. Try it, you won't be dissapointed ^^

And as I mentioned, using these oils is very easy and forgiving, if you cock up you can still set things straight when they haven't fully dried, that's the big perk of them.

Cheers

 

[JR]

Right Wouter thanks for that I will have a play.
Will seem strange though, I've always been under the impression as I said before that I have to seal with a gloss coat to enable the like to flow, as in a pin wash .
You read of Paul using coats of Future floor polish and achieving some fantastic results.
Each of us has their own ideas so nothing lost if I have a try .

 

[Steve Jones]

Mike doesn't want you to copy his methods but to incorporate the essence of OPR into your own style. So take as much or as little of what he says and try it out.

Mike doesn't do pin washes in the normal way. He will paint it on and then blend it out and thus negating the need for a varnish. His method is do everything ie filter,wash,shade,streaks etc as you go rather than one at at time. This saves on the cleaning up and drying times.

It used to take me three to four weeks to weather and do the oil work on a build. Now its done in a matter of days.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Mike doesn't do pin washes in the normal way. He will paint it on and then blend it out and thus negating the need for a varnish. His method is do everything ie filter,wash,shade,streaks etc as you go rather than one at at time. This saves on the cleaning up and drying times.

Lightbulb moment!

I clearly wasn't paying enough attention when I watched those videos before as I completely missed that concept. No need for me to worry about destroying previous layers if they are all going on at once. Thanks for clarifying it Steve.

I have a couple of "out there" kits built and painted that I'm going to use for weathering practice as I'm not really bothered if they turn out a bit funky. Perfect timing really.

 

[JR]

Well as the Tiger is done, so don't want to alter that , and it's not worth doing the bike ! There's so little of it to show.
But........ I'm thinking of doing that flame thrower one next, it's a Hobby Boss not very big as it's a T something or other.

 

[Steve Jones]

One of the main advantages of OPR is you can start and stop it at any time. So if you are called away to do the odd chore you can come back to the build and just carry on as if you hadnt been away.

In theis example with my Cromwell stack, I spent a couple of hours fully weathering the front half of the hull. Then life got in the way and a a few days later I was able to carry on where I left off. Also notice how I have paintd in the pin wash on the seam lines on the first few engine covers behind the turret ready to be blended in



I always cover my builds in Matt Varnish after I have done all the acrylic work. Not that I need too but because I am scared of what might happen if I dont.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Lovely Steve. Do you use any particular brand of oils or just a random selection?

The dirt cheap craft ones I got haven't worked well for me in the past as they can go really grainy when dry. The oilbrushers are much better but I don't have such a variety and they are a bit of a faff to dispense for this method.

 

[Steve Jones]

I started with the arty crafty cheap stuff and they are not good. I use Winsor and Newton and Rowney now. There are others that some people swear by but as I am happy with these I have never seen a need to change.

 

[Wouter]

Matt varnish after all the hard work is something Id vote against. In general it covers some of the weathering effects and makes the model a bit more bland or dull...

Cheers

 

[Steve Jones]

I always cover my builds in Matt Varnish after I have done all the acrylic work. Not that I need too but because I am scared of what might happen if I dont.

Apologies if this comment was misleading. I meant before I start doing all the weathering with the OPR system not after.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

I started with the arty crafty cheap stuff and they are not good. I use Winsor and Newton and Rowney now. There are others that some people swear by but as I am happy with these I have never seen a need to change.

Cheers Steve, glad it's not just me!

I got some W&N acrylics fairly cheap from The Range and have been impressed with them, so I'm guessing their oils would suit me too. Thanks.

 

[Wouter]

Apologies if this comment was misleading. I meant before I start doing all the weathering with the OPR system not after.

That makes more sense to me indeed

Cheers

 

[Steve Jones]

4.30 in the morning??? Kids keeping you up mate??? LOL

 

[Wouter]

4.30 in the morning??? Kids keeping you up mate??? LOL

Nah mate, as a shunting engineer we work in shifts, from time to time we do night shifts, trains need to roll out first thing in the morning. AND we got a tablet from work so a bit of time to read the forum...bit harder to use the ' symbol but hey :D

Cheers