The Road to Singapore: Malaya 1941-42
- Thread starter TIM FORSTER
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Peter Gillson
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Great work on the interor.
Peter
Peter
Neil Merryweather
SMF Supporter
Amazing stuff there Tim- I'm full of admiration!
TIM FORSTER
SMF Supporter
Sorry for the long silence... work picking up and two teenagers doing A levels and GCSEs respectively hasn't helped!
But, rest assured, progress is being made!
A few more details before I get on to painting…
One useful part of the Fine Molds kit which did not come with the Dragon equivalent was the mould for the photo-etched muffler guard. Here is the Dragon PE wrapped around it…
The Fine Molds kits also wins the prize for the most detailed maker’s plate on the front glacis. However, you can also see details from the Dragon kit, such as the armoured MG sleeves, which are far superior to the FM offerings.
Below, in stills from the cine footage taken soon after the battle, you can also see the two ragged holes caused by the 2-pounder HE rounds. These were made in the usual way by thinning out the plastic from behind and then punching the holes with a craft knife. I have tried to replicate the real impacts as closely as possible…
But, rest assured, progress is being made!
A few more details before I get on to painting…
One useful part of the Fine Molds kit which did not come with the Dragon equivalent was the mould for the photo-etched muffler guard. Here is the Dragon PE wrapped around it…
The Fine Molds kits also wins the prize for the most detailed maker’s plate on the front glacis. However, you can also see details from the Dragon kit, such as the armoured MG sleeves, which are far superior to the FM offerings.
Below, in stills from the cine footage taken soon after the battle, you can also see the two ragged holes caused by the 2-pounder HE rounds. These were made in the usual way by thinning out the plastic from behind and then punching the holes with a craft knife. I have tried to replicate the real impacts as closely as possible…
TIM FORSTER
SMF Supporter
Now before I started this project I knew almost nothing about Japanese tanks. There’s still an awful lot that that I don’t know…
However, having looked at a lot of on-line images of the Ha-Go I noticed one aspect of the tanks used in Malaya - or at least in the Bakri action - which differs from most other Type 95s: at least some of them have a large rectangular box on the rear port trackguard which sits behind the standard metal bin. Once I started to assemble the kits (both the Fine Molds and Dragon ones are the same in this respect) this began to puzzle me, because this box is in the same position as the jack and other tools, all of which have specific mounting points which would otherwise be in the way of this box.
The clearest view of this box is that on the second tank (shown in the lower image and in the background of the one above). Even though it is partially destroyed, it is possible to see how it overhangs the track guards thermselves and was held on the vehicle by a length of wire or rope. As for what the box contains I have no idea. It also appears to be of fairly flimsy construction - so perhaps made of thin wood or even cardboard.
Also visible in the same image is the wrecking bar (with a length of chain wrapped around it) and mounts for the other tools which were mounted on the side of the engine compartment - and not the track guards - which would explain how the box was able to be placed in this position. What happened to the jack, I have no idea.
The only other Ha-Go I have come across which has a tool layout which is in any way similar to the Bakri tanks is the one in Bovington Tank Museum. I believe this Type 95 was captured in Burma. It was later examined in Calcutta before being sent to Britain.
This Ha-Go, which appears to be in good condition, still has one smaller box behind the official stowage bin, although on capture it clearly had yet another as well. It also has no mounting point for the jack and you can see the clamps for the other tools (crowbar, spade and pick) on the front port trackguard - so a third variant.
By the way, there is a great walkaround of this tank from the museum’s curator David Willey at: Tank Chats #50 Ha-Go | The Tank Museum - YouTube 1
The tank is sealed, by the way, because of the asbestos which is still inside it and, as he helpfully explains, the camouflage scheme is completely spurious.
So I replicated the tool clamps from spare photo etch and made a crowbar from a piece of metal rod with the ends sanded to a suitable profile. You can see my attempt at scratch-building the box from thin plastic card in the images of the model below, in its finished state state prior to painting.
Oh yes, one last word on the tracks. The Fine Molds kit comes with the link and length variety, which are OK, but lacking in detail. The Dragon kit comes with the ‘rubber’ full-length type, which some people love and others loath. I have so say, they look very nice detail-wise and the only issue would be getting the right sag.
So I went for the Friul model option. Now I have heard from a few people that the quaility at Friul may be slipping and I have to say these ones bear that out. Not only was there quite heavy metal flash on many of the links, my box also came with two port sided pairs.
However, having looked at a lot of on-line images of the Ha-Go I noticed one aspect of the tanks used in Malaya - or at least in the Bakri action - which differs from most other Type 95s: at least some of them have a large rectangular box on the rear port trackguard which sits behind the standard metal bin. Once I started to assemble the kits (both the Fine Molds and Dragon ones are the same in this respect) this began to puzzle me, because this box is in the same position as the jack and other tools, all of which have specific mounting points which would otherwise be in the way of this box.
The clearest view of this box is that on the second tank (shown in the lower image and in the background of the one above). Even though it is partially destroyed, it is possible to see how it overhangs the track guards thermselves and was held on the vehicle by a length of wire or rope. As for what the box contains I have no idea. It also appears to be of fairly flimsy construction - so perhaps made of thin wood or even cardboard.
Also visible in the same image is the wrecking bar (with a length of chain wrapped around it) and mounts for the other tools which were mounted on the side of the engine compartment - and not the track guards - which would explain how the box was able to be placed in this position. What happened to the jack, I have no idea.
The only other Ha-Go I have come across which has a tool layout which is in any way similar to the Bakri tanks is the one in Bovington Tank Museum. I believe this Type 95 was captured in Burma. It was later examined in Calcutta before being sent to Britain.
This Ha-Go, which appears to be in good condition, still has one smaller box behind the official stowage bin, although on capture it clearly had yet another as well. It also has no mounting point for the jack and you can see the clamps for the other tools (crowbar, spade and pick) on the front port trackguard - so a third variant.
By the way, there is a great walkaround of this tank from the museum’s curator David Willey at: Tank Chats #50 Ha-Go | The Tank Museum - YouTube 1
The tank is sealed, by the way, because of the asbestos which is still inside it and, as he helpfully explains, the camouflage scheme is completely spurious.
So I replicated the tool clamps from spare photo etch and made a crowbar from a piece of metal rod with the ends sanded to a suitable profile. You can see my attempt at scratch-building the box from thin plastic card in the images of the model below, in its finished state state prior to painting.
Oh yes, one last word on the tracks. The Fine Molds kit comes with the link and length variety, which are OK, but lacking in detail. The Dragon kit comes with the ‘rubber’ full-length type, which some people love and others loath. I have so say, they look very nice detail-wise and the only issue would be getting the right sag.
So I went for the Friul model option. Now I have heard from a few people that the quaility at Friul may be slipping and I have to say these ones bear that out. Not only was there quite heavy metal flash on many of the links, my box also came with two port sided pairs.
Nice work Tim. Looking very good, with excellent supporting research.
Neil Merryweather
SMF Supporter
Great to see this revived, very enjoyable. Welcome back
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Tim great to see you back, and what a way to return. An excellent build.
rtfoe
SMF Supporter
Tim, welcome back. Great detective work and good spotting the difference in stowage for the Ha-Go. Well done on the scratchery. I'm guessing the thin material used could be zinc sheets as it was a popular material used to make containers with.
Would this be the same unit that fought all the way from the North down the peninsular? There may be some images in the earlier campaign to check or did they fit it in Kuala Lumpur where tin and metal workshops made these containers.
Cheers,
Richard
Would this be the same unit that fought all the way from the North down the peninsular? There may be some images in the earlier campaign to check or did they fit it in Kuala Lumpur where tin and metal workshops made these containers.
Cheers,
Richard
TIM FORSTER
SMF Supporter
Thanks Rick, Tim, Neil, Paul.
And Richard, that's an interesting suggestion. Zinc... is that a bit like tin?
For a nation that would go on to make cameras for most of the world, the Japanese appear to have taken precious few photos during the Second World War... at least there are certainly very few images from their side during this campaign. Or maybe the photos have yet to surface.
I have looked all over the internet and I have yet to find any images of any other Ha-Gos with this stowage configuration. As we will see, there are aspects of their camouflage and markings that also make them unusual...
And Richard, that's an interesting suggestion. Zinc... is that a bit like tin?
For a nation that would go on to make cameras for most of the world, the Japanese appear to have taken precious few photos during the Second World War... at least there are certainly very few images from their side during this campaign. Or maybe the photos have yet to surface.
I have looked all over the internet and I have yet to find any images of any other Ha-Gos with this stowage configuration. As we will see, there are aspects of their camouflage and markings that also make them unusual...
TIM FORSTER
SMF Supporter
Now I am going to the get on to the painting… which is a story in itself.
The world of Japanese tank colours is a rabbit-hole all of its own and I am not going to take you all down it with me on this post, but most of us are familiar with the fact that most IJM armour was painted in fairly elaborate camouflage schemes throughout the war.
In this regard they were far ahead of the later war German camo patterns, although it is worth remembering that all the major combatants of the Second World War experimented with disruptive schemes to some extent. The Japanese were, of course, prepared for fighting in sun-dappled jungle environments, although I cannot help thinking that they were also influenced by the French, who used particularly striking camouflage (it is a French word after all) on their early war tanks.
Undoubtedly the best-known pattern is the one where the three main colours were disrupted with a fourth: yellow stripes painted in a wavy cross which subdivided the vehicle into four quarters. This scheme is indelibly fixed in my mind from those Chi-Has which appeared in the early Tamiya catalogues.
However, after intensive study of the photos of the Bakri Ha-Gos it becomes apparent that they did not have this fourth element: despite the fact that the images are in black and white, you can clearly see that they were painted in three contrasting shades.
These were also hard-edged, suggesting that the tanks were hand painted. From what I have read this is consistent with early war Japanese armour. The camo was also painted in a distinctive cloud pattern - almost like jigsaw pieces. You can see this very clearly on these close ups of the leading tank which is the one my model represents…
However, when I looked for colour plates on line I was surprised that I couldn’t find any that matched this scheme - or the markings (which I will come to a little later). Since the tanks from the Bakri action are probably the most photographed Japanese tanks of the entire war I must say that I find this a bit odd… so I had to ad lib.
The world of Japanese tank colours is a rabbit-hole all of its own and I am not going to take you all down it with me on this post, but most of us are familiar with the fact that most IJM armour was painted in fairly elaborate camouflage schemes throughout the war.
In this regard they were far ahead of the later war German camo patterns, although it is worth remembering that all the major combatants of the Second World War experimented with disruptive schemes to some extent. The Japanese were, of course, prepared for fighting in sun-dappled jungle environments, although I cannot help thinking that they were also influenced by the French, who used particularly striking camouflage (it is a French word after all) on their early war tanks.
Undoubtedly the best-known pattern is the one where the three main colours were disrupted with a fourth: yellow stripes painted in a wavy cross which subdivided the vehicle into four quarters. This scheme is indelibly fixed in my mind from those Chi-Has which appeared in the early Tamiya catalogues.
However, after intensive study of the photos of the Bakri Ha-Gos it becomes apparent that they did not have this fourth element: despite the fact that the images are in black and white, you can clearly see that they were painted in three contrasting shades.
These were also hard-edged, suggesting that the tanks were hand painted. From what I have read this is consistent with early war Japanese armour. The camo was also painted in a distinctive cloud pattern - almost like jigsaw pieces. You can see this very clearly on these close ups of the leading tank which is the one my model represents…
However, when I looked for colour plates on line I was surprised that I couldn’t find any that matched this scheme - or the markings (which I will come to a little later). Since the tanks from the Bakri action are probably the most photographed Japanese tanks of the entire war I must say that I find this a bit odd… so I had to ad lib.
TIM FORSTER
SMF Supporter
Some time ago I bought these Hataka paints.
The Hataka paints were odd compared to my usual experience with Tamiya and Vallejo. Once I realised that I had the brush painting set I assumed that they would need a decent amount of thinning for airbrushing. But even though I used their own brand of thinner, the first mix was much too ‘wet’. They also have an odd, milky sheen when diluted - although this disappears as they dry. Worst of all, they end up with a chalky feel on the model’s surface which doesn’t adhere to the layer underneath particularly well (the odd edge or corner would rub off slightly as I handled the model even after it had been left to dry for a considerable time).
Anyway, I persevered. I began with a base coat of Khaki-Iro, which is not dissimilar the British khaki in that it is noticeably a lot more brown than green. This was then lightened with a little yellow and white for a sort of pre-shading - although it is worth remembering that all colours should be lightened for true scale effect.
So here is the model after I had finished the base coat…
One fortunate aspect of the Dragon kit is that I was able to keep the complete exhaust assembly as a separate assembly for painting - it just fits beneath the photoetch exhaust shroud once the latter has been fixed in place.
Something I didn’t notice at the time was that these sets come in at least two types: brush (blue) and airbrush (red) varieties (there are also lacquer sets for some colours). I had acquired the blue brush painting set. As things turned out this was probably a fortunate choice…
The Hataka paints were odd compared to my usual experience with Tamiya and Vallejo. Once I realised that I had the brush painting set I assumed that they would need a decent amount of thinning for airbrushing. But even though I used their own brand of thinner, the first mix was much too ‘wet’. They also have an odd, milky sheen when diluted - although this disappears as they dry. Worst of all, they end up with a chalky feel on the model’s surface which doesn’t adhere to the layer underneath particularly well (the odd edge or corner would rub off slightly as I handled the model even after it had been left to dry for a considerable time).
Anyway, I persevered. I began with a base coat of Khaki-Iro, which is not dissimilar the British khaki in that it is noticeably a lot more brown than green. This was then lightened with a little yellow and white for a sort of pre-shading - although it is worth remembering that all colours should be lightened for true scale effect.
So here is the model after I had finished the base coat…
One fortunate aspect of the Dragon kit is that I was able to keep the complete exhaust assembly as a separate assembly for painting - it just fits beneath the photoetch exhaust shroud once the latter has been fixed in place.
Something I didn’t notice at the time was that these sets come in at least two types: brush (blue) and airbrush (red) varieties (there are also lacquer sets for some colours). I had acquired the blue brush painting set. As things turned out this was probably a fortunate choice…
rtfoe
SMF Supporter
Hi Tim,
Great SBS on the Ha-Go color scheme and application.
I think the attacks were such a surprise that filming probably wasn't priority.
Tin could have been one of the compounds for zinc but it was used mostly to line the insides of canned foods and beverages an invention that made Tin a sort after ore mineral.
Cheers,
Richard
Great SBS on the Ha-Go color scheme and application.
I think the attacks were such a surprise that filming probably wasn't priority.
Tin could have been one of the compounds for zinc but it was used mostly to line the insides of canned foods and beverages an invention that made Tin a sort after ore mineral.
Cheers,
Richard
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Tim,
A lot of interesting information. The paint job looks good.
A lot of interesting information. The paint job looks good.
Airborne01
SMF Supporter
Tim,
Are those tow cables on the rear engine plate? This is coming along very nicely, I've never considered a Japanese tank before but you've piqued my interest! Thanks
Steve
Are those tow cables on the rear engine plate? This is coming along very nicely, I've never considered a Japanese tank before but you've piqued my interest! Thanks
Steve
TIM FORSTER
SMF Supporter
Thanks Richard, I will bear that in mind when I paint and weather the stowage box...