What’s your undercoating preference?

[Jakko]

i use cheap rattle can automotive primer

I used to as well, but the formula of the only brand of automotive paint I can find around here changed a decade ago or so, and went from a good, matt finish that covered well to looking like there’s dried-up milk on the thing you painted I then switched to wargaming primer because there was a game store nearby and GW’s primer works very well, but that store closed last year.

As for painting on the sprue: tank wheels, usually, but very little else. I either leave the wheels completely unassembled on the sprue or I leave one of each pair of wheels on there and assemble the rest to them, then spray them all that way together with the rest of the model, as this makes them easy to hold. Once dry, I remove them from the sprues and paint the tyres with a brush.

 

[prichrd1]

Drew,
Use Halford's grey, white, black or red primer from a rattle can - obviously outdoors!! .
Shade dependent on the type of finish required. Usually gives a good even coat if you'r careful with it.

Recently tried some primer colors from Army Painter and "Colors of War" from the company "Flames of War" - aimed at war gamer's - Panther Yellow, Tankovy Green, Grenadier Green all give a reasonable base for adding acrylics on top.

Paul.

 

[JR]

Hi Drew.
Vallejo, Amig, both thinned and with flow improver. Colour from Green ( 4bo )
Grey , brown ,(esp when chipping latter ) black and white.
Etch and foil Mr Hobby Metal primer.

 

[dave]

i generally prime parts but not on the sprue, like many others here i tend to work in sub assemblies.

I am in a minority as i still use the Vallejo acrylic polyurethane primer in light grey or dark green depending on the subject, i have had them for several years and have no trouble airbrushing them. i am trying the Ammo by Mig Primer in a light sand colour, so far a good experience

 

[stona]

I build as much as I can before priming. I don't prime on the sprue, there's almost always work to be done on the parts before they can be painted at all.

I usually use a grey primer. Halfords Plastic primer has been a choice for years, but I also use the Hycote plastic primer. I sometimes use white.

On the external surfaces of the model I rub down the primer before applying the next paint, usually with a 1500 grit paper. I also rub down the final coats of paint before varnishing and decaling, with a finer 2400 grit paper, but I use enamels. I have to be careful on older models with raised detail and don't think this would be an option with a lot of other paint types, though you can always polish paint with a piece of denim cloth. I don't bother with this in things like cockpits or wheel wells.

 

[Ancientmariner]

As a novice I generally build and then prime if I am going to prime using the Vallejo primer which I use unthinned (I have not as yet had issues with the tip drying).
I have Tamiya can primer and only used these once as I found I couldn't very well control the flow out of the can and this clogged detail areas. Will be trying the tip referenced before about decanting it from the can and thinning before applying with thinner.
I have white grey and black Vallejo primers but to be honest find it almost impossible to visually differentiate between the white and grey.

In some instances I don't use a dedicated primer but use a grey or white as a base for full models just to build depth in the colour.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi James
if you’re goi for my decanting method, best way is to blue tack a bendy straw to the nozzle, sealed around so it doesn’t leak....Then spray it into the container you are using to hold it. If you want to store it in a jar, remember to let the propellant gas off before sealing. This can take an hour or so. If you don’t, the container will develop quite a lot of pressure.

 

[outrunner]

I don't always use a primer, but if I do it's Halfords rattle can as it does what it says on the tin.


Andy.

 

[rtfoe]

When I started off in the early days I used to paint on the sprue but when I learnt to sand or scrape off seam lines or clean up sprue attachments then I began painting them in sub assemblies.

I use Mr Surfacer 500, 1000 and 1500 depending on the finish required and applied with an airbrush. The primer helps hide the shades of fillers or glue marks for a neutral surface and show up any areas that missed cleanup. For planes I now do a pre-shading after the primer coat which instantly removes the toylike appearance if painted with one monotonous flat color.

Here's examples of what I mean... pre-shade



...and after a coat of the main color.



Cheers,
Richard