What is the best type of glue

[Robert1968]

This is probably going to be old hat to a lot of you members but I find different models require different glues and there's no set standard.


Years ago there used to be tubes ( still are the cement tubes) but it gets everywhere and is messy ( humbrol etc )


Revell do the tube too of cement glue and the needlepoint ( better and more easy to control. Also contacts clear etc etc etc


Tamiya do a variety of glues, so do humbrol, airfix etc etc.


Then there's you cyanoacrylate used for pe parts , and super glues thin glues medium setting etc etc


I have a selection of all the above but you know what I'm still not satisfied with some of them and the results they give..


An example ( recently I built a Dragon hetzer ( smart kit ) with individual track links and tried Revell contact ( bit messy even with gloves and very sparingly used


So I tried the brush ( mini ) glue from humbrol in a glass bottle ( well the tracks welded into a long strip but a lot of detail lost due to the melt.


I thought I'd try gator ( messy stuff )


The list goes on and on


So for a professional finish to produce the kind of stuff you chaps produce, can you tip or suggest a good plastic glue. All comments wanted

 

[Laurie]

Robert I use mainly two cements. Tamiya Extra Thin cement and Mr CementS by Mr Hobby. Both are very thin glues.


They are generally used for wicking into a joint. This is different from using the Poly Cement by Humbrol and Revell which you apply to joints then strap together.


For instance. This is my way others may have slightly different techniques using the Tamiya and Mr Cement.. Two wing pieces, top and bottom, to be welded together. Put the pieces together dry and tape a various points into theri final position. Then apply either of the Tamiya or Mr Hobby to the joint between two of the tapes making sure the joints are tight in that section. Both come with a brush to apply to the to the joint. I apply fingers to press the joint together. The cement takes about 20 or 30 secs to hold not cured but enough to let go.


Warnings if using this method. First you only need a small amount as the cement will wick into the joint and give a good joint. To much cement and it takes longer to go off and also could damage parts. Second when wicking between the tapes mentioned I find it best just to apply just say half an inch in width just to hem the parts together. Carefull both cements wick a long way and the tape will become embedded in the plastic. So I tack around the pieces well within the tape distance. After I have tacked all around I then remove the tape and wick between the hemmed parts.


Do not worry about the small mark left by the cement on the plastic surface as after priming you will not see it. I use wet and dry before painting and this removes any of that marking anyway.


Last point and I hope this is all understandable. It is easier than it all seems here. Practice on scrap as this will give an idea of the speed the cement spreads along the joint. Final warning keep fingers and thumbs well away from the cement. Any that gets under the fingers will leave a permanent finger print. The nice advantage of this method is that you dry fit into final positions before applying any cement.


Cyanoacrylate I only use for small bits and pieces. With this you have a glue between the two pieces. With Tamiya and Mr Hobby you are actually only softening the plastic in the wicked areas for the joint to weld into itself ie no glue in the joint at all.


Laurie

 

[PaulTRose]

i almost exclusivly use thick ca.....occasionally i will use thin polystyrene glue when i want it to draw into a gap......ordinary pva/gator for glear parts when i cant get away with ca

 

[Robert1968]

Robert I use mainly two cements. Tamiya Extra Thin cement and Mr CementS by Mr Hobby. Both are very thin glues.
They are generally used for wicking into a joint. This is different from using the Poly Cement by Humbrol and Revell which you apply to joints then strap together.


For instance. This is my way others may have slightly different techniques using the Tamiya and Mr Cement.. Two wing pieces, top and bottom, to be welded together. Put the pieces together dry and tape a various points into theri final position. Then apply either of the Tamiya or Mr Hobby to the joint between two of the tapes making sure the joints are tight in that section. Both come with a brush to apply to the to the joint. I apply fingers to press the joint together. The cement takes about 20 or 30 secs to hold not cured but enough to let go.


Warnings if using this method. First you only need a small amount as the cement will wick into the joint and give a good joint. To much cement and it takes longer to go off and also could damage parts. Second when wicking between the tapes mentioned I find it best just to apply just say half an inch in width just to hem the parts together. Carefull both cements wick a long way and the tape will become embedded in the plastic. So I tack around the pieces well within the tape distance. After I have tacked all around I then remove the tape and wick between the hemmed parts.


Do not worry about the small mark left by the cement on the plastic surface as after priming you will not see it. I use wet and dry before painting and this removes any of that marking anyway.


Last point and I hope this is all understandable. It is easier than it all seems here. Practice on scrap as this will give an idea of the speed the cement spreads along the joint. Final warning keep fingers and thumbs well away from the cement. Any that gets under the fingers will leave a permanent finger print. The nice advantage of this method is that you dry fit into final positions before applying any cement.


Cyanoacrylate I only use for small bits and pieces. With this you have a glue between the two pieces. With Tamiya and Mr Hobby you are actually only softening the plastic in the wicked areas for the joint to weld into itself ie no glue in the joint at all.


Laurie

Thanks Laurie,


Got the tamiya on order ( UK supplier ) Mr hobby I have to wait as coming the long way round from Hong Kong!! But heho patience is a virtue


Many thanks


Robert

 

[Laurie]

Thanks Laurie,
Got the tamiya on order ( UK supplier ) Mr hobby I have to wait as coming the long way round from Hong Kong!! But heho patience is a virtue


Many thanks


Robert

Robert John in the shop has both on sale at rock bottom prices. Also you will get them within John's very fine service within 24 hours. You may be able to cancel the Hong Kong thing !


http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/modelling-preparation/auxiliaries/glue.html?p=2


Missed one thing. Mr Hobby is the fastest in the initial setting. Tamiya about a third slower. I would, for example, use Mr Hobby for the straight forward larger uncomplicated things wings fuselage. For intricate bits where you may need a bit more time Tamiya. Useful for instance where you can drop a drop into a slot or round pimple slot as it gives time to put the pieces together. after using both I suspect that the Tamiya is the stronger. Like all things we each adjust to the way we find things work the best for our own needs.


The Poly is very good where a really strong joint is needed and you have the patience to wait. Not a commodity that has been made readily available for me.


Another tip still using Tamiya. If you have a joint which has an unfortunate gap. I keep a selection of plastic card of differing thickness's. Cut a piece of card as tight as possible to the joint. Cut to a height just as close to the final surface. Using Tamiya by brushing over the joint I give a little thicker and if it sinks way down another coat. You will then have as tough a joint as you could get welding the plastic together. Also then making good the joint is easy comparatively as you are dealing with all plastic of the same hardness and not a glue. Best to support the joint either side to eliminate any sag.


Gets to complicated here to go on about final finishing of the joint and comes under fillers. If you need info on fillers it would be best to start another thread as it is wide ranging with many different ways.


Laurie

 

[Robert1968]

Just ordered glues from John ( this man is a lifesaver and saving me money too, should be in post by weds latest


Thanks again Laurie.


P.S would like to hear more on fillers too ( nee thread??

 

[Gern]

Here you go Robert. This one's appeared here several times:


http://aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=111677&page=1

 

[phalinmegob]

i use E.M.A plastic weld applied with the flexifile needle applicator system

 

[ojays]

I use several different ones depending on the application.


The one I now find the easiest to use (though expensive) is Cyano Gell.


But as everything in life, everybody has differing ideas that suit them.


Gregg