What's the secret to a good gloss

peterairfix

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peter
What's the secret to getting a good gloss coat as I use tamiya acrylic paints I always thin them but no matter how I try I can't get my gloss paint to shine and I am spraying at 20 psi as I found it just to my liking any tips or help will be most appreciated.
 
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Alex
This might sound a bit odd, but have you tried just brushing it on with a wide brush? I don't use a spray gun myself but I always get a good shine with my gloss finishes, I always use 2 -3 coats too
 
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Alex
Or are you talking about coloured gloss paint as opposed to a clear gloss overcoat?
 
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Stevekir

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I have had good results for some years using Tamiya Gloss Spray Paint. It comes in a spray can:
85013.jpg

Hold the can about 10 inches away from the part and keep it moving.

I first prime the part using ordinary grey primer, left to thoroughly dry. Then a light spray from the chosen gloss spray paint, enough to cover the primer fairly well but no more. Leave to dry for 24 hours or more in a warm place at room temperature (not a garage or shed in winter). Then a second, thicker coat is sprayed to very nearly completely cover the primer but by no means glossy, and left to dry thoroughly for over 24 hours. Finally, and this is the tricky part, spray the final coat until it looks wet (therefore glossy) and continuous but avoid runs or sagging areas of over-sprayed paint. Make more than one pass of the spray and as necessary, coming back to selected areas again to apply more paint as needed. This final coat dries in 15 to 20 minutes sufficiently to prevent the risk of runs after that period.

The reason for the quite long drying times is that the propellant gas dissolves in the paint in the can. This must be allowed time to pass through a layer of paint (especially the final coat), otherwise the final coat will not be glossy.

Assuming no runs as a result of the final spraying, it is important to orient the newly sprayed part to minimize the amount of surface area at any one time which is vertical and therefore prone to run even after spraying. This is difficult with a part with several areas at angles to each other. Until the drying time of 15 to 20 minutes is up, keep the part rotating to avoid runs. Dust has never been a problem for me.

But some parts will always have an area that is vertical and which could run as it is left to dry. An example is the bonnet (engine compartment cover) in the white tractor (below). To avoid that with these difficult parts I stick a piece of White Tack to form a handle and sit patiently rotating my wrist and therefore holding the part in different orientations to prevent any runs gathering speed. I have bought a tiny motor and will make a "machine"which will rotate the part at one revs. per 4 seconds while I have a cup of tea.

The application of the final coat, to wetness but no further, and the minimization of post-spraying runs, need practice on scrap test pieces, even going to the length of gluing up some test pieces from poly sheet with lots of surfaces at different angles to each other. A rub with a cloth and a polish (the type that is ever so slightly abrasive, not a wax polish) can be used when the final coat is hard (a few days later). A final wax polish can be done.

It is quite tricky but once mastered the result is consistent. One advantage (apart from getting a good gloss with this method) is that there is no cleaning of an airbrush. However, for parts with deep recesses it is possible to decant the spray paint and shoot it through an airbrush, but clean it very thoroughly after.

Here are two of my efforts (1:24). The truck, being white, doesn't in fact show gloss very well when photographed, but some reflection can be seen near the far corner of the cab top.

In the Roll-Royce, the rear right mudguard shows slight orange peeling which comes from not applying enough final gloss paint. Orange peel will not sand and polish out. The rest of the model paint is perfect, with no orange peel, and good reflections can be seen in the photo.



4 Closeup.jpg
DSC_0110 Right Posterolateral, Bordered.jpg
 
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Airfix Modeller Freak

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Start by using actual gloss based colors, then gloss coat it.
That may help more. If you are painting with a matte paint, mix gloss in before you start using it. Otherwise, it will absorb quite a bit of the shine
 
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m1ks

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Tamiya acrylics are not a good starting point for a high gloss shine.
That said, you need to maximise the chances of getting the best out of them, thin with tamiyas own X20A thinner, if you use IPA it will flash off too quickly to achieve a good wet coat, try lowering the PSI a little and pulling back for more paint and passing over the kit more quickly, this will get more paint on and ensure a wet edge which is essential for a good gloss coverage.

Other options are the TS spray cans which are cellulose based, like halfords rattle cans, so you'll need excellent ventilation and a proper face mask, (not a dust mask) or spray outdoors.
Another alternative if you have the patience are enamels, the shine from a gloss enamel is almost unbeatable.
 
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Jens Andrée

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I've tried a couple jars of Tamiyas non-flat (X-series, not XF) acrylic paint but they're only marginally less flat than full flat. They are not intended to be glossy like glossy paints. At least I don't think so?
With a perfectly flat surface and equally even paint, you can polish the subsequent layer of varnish to a high gloss, but it has to be perfectly smooth and you have to apply quite a few layers of varnish - and polish in between.

Like the others say, you're better off by using actual gloss paints, and the easiest option is a rattle can.
Automotive paints are very glossy but in order to get the really high finish you have to wet sand the paint before clear coat as well, otherwise you can get the dreaded orange peel effect...
 
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colin
Peter you can add Tamiya x-22 to there gloss paint range its supposed to enhance the sheen. I haven't tried it personally but I do use it as a clear coat and it dries to a high gloss finish.
 
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Steve Noble

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Are you using Tamiya X series acrylics? They do work, but the gloss ones take a bit of practice to get the best from them. I find them difficult to apply and much prefer lacquer type paints for a nice and easy gloss finish. They also dry quick and to a nice hard finish that you can handle without marking. Mr Color are my favourite or the new Tamiya LP range if you can get them. They both spray beautifully..
 
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Stevekir

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..."and much prefer lacquer type paints."

I have been using Tamiya TS range, Color for Plastics, 100 mL in a spray can. Quite expensive and they require three coats with each needing overnight to dry, and the last coat needs to bes prayed dangerously just up to running or it will give an orange peel effect. I will now try Mr. Color . The colour range is very wide. The video:


is impressive. I like the use of spraying on to plastic teaspoons to check the colour.
 
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