Zoukei Mura Hs129B-2/ RIII, 1/32 scale.

Jim R

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Glad it worked Barry. I enjoy your big plane builds. Looking good as always. Interesting thoughts on black primer.
Jim
 

adt70hk

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No problem at all Barry, glad I could help.

I've only made four planes since coming back to the hobby, all at 1/72, and only the last three were done using an airbrush. I tried the black basing on the last one, a 110, after seeing it demonstrated on a YouTube channel and I have to say I was blown away by how simple and yet effective it was.

I'm not saying it's impossible to get it wrong but if a novice like me could achieve the effect I did on the first attempt, then it's got to be pretty special. I'm certainly going to give it a go on the next plane I do and I'm currently trying it on a 1/72 Cromwell, as you will see from my most recent thread.
 

BarryW

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No problem at all Barry, glad I could help.

I've only made four planes since coming back to the hobby, all at 1/72, and only the last three were done using an airbrush. I tried the black basing on the last one, a 110, after seeing it demonstrated on a YouTube channel and I have to say I was blown away by how simple and yet effective it was.

I'm not saying it's impossible to get it wrong but if a novice like me could achieve the effect I did on the first attempt, then it's got to be pretty special. I'm certainly going to give it a go on the next plane I do and I'm currently trying it on a 1/72 Cromwell, as you will see from my most recent thread.
Spot on. The sheer simplicity and effectiveness of the method makes me wonder why more don't do it. I will take a look at your build.
 

BarryW

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After final treatment of any seam lines or other issues shown up by the primer I applied a final black primer coat.

I have decided to change the normal painting order and spray the RLM78 underside before spraying the RLM02 wheel wells. I decided that masking around the wheel well would be easier.

Here is how she looks now
B6B9D2FA-061F-4863-9C8F-95B2F05FD8A0.jpeg

I will paint the RLM02 next then the white nose and wing tips.

I have also painted some other parts, still to be weathered.

EC189264-303A-47AF-A510-345E4FD97624.jpeg
 

adt70hk

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Andrew
Coming on nicely Barry.
 

BarryW

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I have had a good session today.

Yesterday I painted most of the white sections on the underside. The rear white band can wait until a later stage. I also painted the wheel wells RLM02 and did a little detail hand painting on the bottom. Weathering is still needed in these areas. I also attached the wheels.

49BAEE42-CC54-4ACF-9ABB-F2F065105DB1.jpeg

Today I masked off areas to enable me to spray the first top camo colour RLM79

976F45C6-6B15-46EE-AABF-089C45259874.jpeg

Here is how she looks now. I think I need to spray some areas with a lightened RLM79 to represent sun fading. The black basing helps with some contrast.

1F1D92A7-0319-478B-8FE0-888E9A6F2144.jpeg

BB7EE3A7-2A2B-43E8-BB4A-1803B9B48E94.jpeg

Tomorrow I will spray RLM80 freehand after some post-shading.
 

adt70hk

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Coming on very nicely indeed Barry.

ATB.

Andrew
 

BarryW

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I have been spraying the mottle freehand. This particular scheme is an easy one to do, just wind down the pressure, set the limiter at the back of the airbrush, test and spray away. It is particularly easy when using high quality MRP lacquers that are ideal for low pressures, they really make a big difference specially given that you don’t have any tip drying issues to worry about. The biggest problem was restraint, avoiding over doing it!

Here is how she looks.
E27A9B58-C41A-439A-9D82-28E08A5AA0FE.jpeg

I will be masking for the white band and the white area on the nose next, then it will be time to try out the 1 Man Army paint masks for the first time painting the markings.
 

adt70hk

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Coming on nicely Barry!
 

Jim R

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Hi Barry
Really neat camo painting. Masking of the white areas has worked well.
Jim
 

yak face

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Nice work barry , the desert camo looks great
 

adt70hk

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Coming on nicely Barry. Out of interest which brand of burnt iron do you use?

Also, have you got your shelves up in the room yet?

ATB.

Andrew
 

BarryW

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Hi Andrew

I only spray with MRP it’s their Burnt Iron. I will be carrying out weathering to make it look better.

As for the shelves, no not yet, I have paid a deposit for the work which, hopefully, will be done just before Christmas.
 

BarryW

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I have been looking closely at the 1 Man Army masks and they look impressive and use a different system to others.

Instead of removing, say a German black cross, using a backing paper to keep the elements in place when positioning them on the model, then removing/replacing elements as you spray the white and black, 1 Man Army provide what look like a better simpler system.

See the picture, 1ab and 1b. You can do it conventionally with just 1ab but instead they suggest applying only the outer part of 1ab, spray white, then remove it and place it with 1b (outer section only) carefully positioned, it will put the black sections in exactly the right place.

Also pictured are the masks for the stencilling data. I like how the masks are numbered. There are some excellent positioning advice on the instructions.

Tomorrow hopefully I will get to use them.

98973CB1-2BDA-4D22-8502-7801CF775E07.jpeg06CB4D18-6AF7-4BB7-A748-4906A4558EE4.jpeg
 

BarryW

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I am spraying the markings slowly and in short stages starting with the wing crosses.

First I applied the masks for white sections and sprayed them. After placing the mask I went around the masked and butted wide tape right on the edge around it. This will help position the next mask as well as extend the area protected from overspray. I also applied thin tape over the butt join to reduce the risk of paint getting into it. These thin strips will need to be removed to place the next mask and then replaced.

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The second mask is positioned carefully over the top on the exact footprint of the first mask.
8A85AAE2-6EAA-4F96-874C-75ED8A4A81C5.jpeg

The underside masks are harder to do because of ‘protuberances’ that need to be navigated and detail. Also, of course, the black is not just a simple cross.
06A58167-5B2B-406A-8B4D-F046441E268F.jpeg

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Some cutting of the masks was needed and the use of tape.

0D65EF3C-3F63-4029-AD38-BBC4A01410E0.jpeg

Top wing masks removed.
38B4EB7B-194C-42E3-AA84-08B35E31C4CF.jpeg

All in all they are looking good with very little adjustment/touch up needed. I am very pleased.

Not quite the same story on the underside.

One side is fine, pretty good in fact and there is little more work to do.

8341FA6E-35CA-4C90-8053-340BA3444DDF.jpeg

The other side though went very wrong. These underside masks had to be cut into inboard and outboard sections and while the inboard is fine the outboard section went very wrong.

13BD130B-BF19-4862-9828-760659FE1D49.jpeg

My fault entirely as I clearly misaligned it. The good news is that German markings are easy to correct as they are just straight lines. I will use the inboard to help apply tape in the right position, probably using the masking elements left behind from the first session and respray. It should not be a problem.

Verdict on I Man Army - well, I still have to try out the small stencil markings, but overall I do like them and, in future, these will be my ‘goto’ masks. I certainly found them easier to use despite my cock-up.
 
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