Lovely stuff Dave. That seems a very good way of handling tracks. I’m surprised other companies don’t take it on.
Zvezda 1/35 T-90MS
- Thread starter Dave Ward
- Start date
Tim,
well, 'not invented here' syndrome, or more likely 'everybody else is doing individual links'
Dave
outrunner
SMF Supporter
Looking good Dave, I must admit to cheating a wee bit with mine when I did the tracks, as when the side skirts are fitted you can not see the top sections of the tracks, so I did not fit them.
Andy.
Andy.
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- Jakko
That’s what I normally do too, especially with separate-link tracks, where it means you a) have about a third less track to assemble, and b) if you build two models with the same aftermarket track set, you have enough links left for a third 
No bench time today - I had a dentist visit late this morning & the combination of drilling & sitting with my mouth open for 1hr+ left me with a bad headache, so dozing in a darkened bedroom was the limit of my afternoon's labours. Headache now going, but my jaw muscles are aching............
Dave
Dave
Feel your pain there Dave. I always find the jaw ache worse than the dentistry!
Painted the roadwheel tyres & added to the chassis - then, adding the tracks - one side at a time, so I don't mix the parts up!
Starting at the drive sprocket, the correct curved track section was CA'd into place, making sure it's the right way round.
The next section is offered up, then drops of CA fix it in place.
After the bottom straight run is added, the curved section is added to the idler wheel ( the idler wheel can me moved around eccentrically , so the track section fits neatly ). If all is well & you have got the right parts, the final lower section is fitted.
When you come to add the final top run section it should fit neatly, providing you have been accurate in your assembly. All it needs is the outer drive sprocket adding & the paint on the tracks touching up.
I use Loctite CA, it has a long nozzle & I can just add a dot of CA where I want (& the nozzle doesn't clog as badly as some other makes ). The instant grab of CA is essential for me - I don't like sitting around, holding parts together.
I'll do the other side, add the outer sprockets & touch up the track paint, then I can put this aside, and move upwards.........
Dave
Starting at the drive sprocket, the correct curved track section was CA'd into place, making sure it's the right way round.
The next section is offered up, then drops of CA fix it in place.
After the bottom straight run is added, the curved section is added to the idler wheel ( the idler wheel can me moved around eccentrically , so the track section fits neatly ). If all is well & you have got the right parts, the final lower section is fitted.
When you come to add the final top run section it should fit neatly, providing you have been accurate in your assembly. All it needs is the outer drive sprocket adding & the paint on the tracks touching up.
I use Loctite CA, it has a long nozzle & I can just add a dot of CA where I want (& the nozzle doesn't clog as badly as some other makes ). The instant grab of CA is essential for me - I don't like sitting around, holding parts together.
I'll do the other side, add the outer sprockets & touch up the track paint, then I can put this aside, and move upwards.........
Dave
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Dave,
Tracks look good, they went together well.
Tracks look good, they went together well.
Lovely track work. That track design really is an innovation that needs to be widely copied!
Lower chassis complete..............................
As Andy said, you can take a short cut & not bother with the top runs - the skirts etc come down and cover about 1/3 the roadwheel depth. I just added them to show how simple it can be........
The main point on the Zvezda tracks is the keying of the drive sprocket, it only fits one way, and this is the fixed datum for the way all the tracks fit & connect. All it needs is a little care in actually selecting the right bits, there are a few that are very similar, and if you fit the wrong one, then you'll have trouble further down the line...............
Dave
As Andy said, you can take a short cut & not bother with the top runs - the skirts etc come down and cover about 1/3 the roadwheel depth. I just added them to show how simple it can be........
The main point on the Zvezda tracks is the keying of the drive sprocket, it only fits one way, and this is the fixed datum for the way all the tracks fit & connect. All it needs is a little care in actually selecting the right bits, there are a few that are very similar, and if you fit the wrong one, then you'll have trouble further down the line...............
Dave
Moving onto the uppers the two mudguards/fenders have been assembled - quite complex assemblies. I've started putting the major parts onto the top decking
The top decking & 2 fenders are just dryfitted, the fit is really excellent, they just click together. I'll add a few more parts to the upper deck, leaving the small delicate bits off. Hopefully this will allow me to use the masks. I'll have to see if I can add the skirts to the fenders without complicating things too much, mask wise.
I'm enjoying this, the fit of parts is excellent - Zvezda don't seem to embrace slide moulds, so this can complicate assemblies, but the fit is so good, it's not an issue.
Dave
The top decking & 2 fenders are just dryfitted, the fit is really excellent, they just click together. I'll add a few more parts to the upper deck, leaving the small delicate bits off. Hopefully this will allow me to use the masks. I'll have to see if I can add the skirts to the fenders without complicating things too much, mask wise.
I'm enjoying this, the fit of parts is excellent - Zvezda don't seem to embrace slide moulds, so this can complicate assemblies, but the fit is so good, it's not an issue.
Dave
Now we're getting to the potentially disastrous stage - the masking....................
A really bad day here, been hammering down with rain - had the lights on all the time - I had to use flash to take the piccies ( that's why they look a little bleached out ). The uppers were primed & basecoated. This will now be left until tomorrow, when I can start putting the first mask on. ( It doesn't help that the mask is pretty much the same colour as the basecoat! The next colour to be sprayed will be "ochre" - I've sorted through my paints, and the best match I can find is Hataka Khaki Brown, or Vallejo Flat Earth. I'll do a patch test & see which looks best in daylight ( providing we get some tomorrow )
Dave
A really bad day here, been hammering down with rain - had the lights on all the time - I had to use flash to take the piccies ( that's why they look a little bleached out ). The uppers were primed & basecoated. This will now be left until tomorrow, when I can start putting the first mask on. ( It doesn't help that the mask is pretty much the same colour as the basecoat! The next colour to be sprayed will be "ochre" - I've sorted through my paints, and the best match I can find is Hataka Khaki Brown, or Vallejo Flat Earth. I'll do a patch test & see which looks best in daylight ( providing we get some tomorrow )
Dave
First mask applied - and major visible trenches sealed with masking fluid Card to prevent overspray onto the wheels/tracks.
I used Hataka Khaki Brown - it sprayed from the bottle nicely
I'll leave that overnight before applying the second mask. The black patches are all pretty small, so I'll brush paint those. I'm still dubious about whether this is going to work properly, but I'll see tomorrow....
Dave
I used Hataka Khaki Brown - it sprayed from the bottle nicely
I'll leave that overnight before applying the second mask. The black patches are all pretty small, so I'll brush paint those. I'm still dubious about whether this is going to work properly, but I'll see tomorrow....
Dave
2nd mask applied & the black patches brush painted ( Hataka Night Black ).......................
After a 1/4 hour, the moment of truth - the masks peeled off................................
Well, there has been a fair amount of bleed, there are too many depressions etc to expect any different. The worst being the black - despite this being the only brush painted part. The really good part is that was no paint lifting - the priming & overnight drying has given good paint adhesion.
I now have to add all the other details, like the bar armour around the sprockets, and the auxiliary fuel tanks, & all the other bits that would have really interfered with the mask. Then, I'll touch up all the paint bleeds......
The jury's still out on the paper masks - I'll wait until I've done the turret before passing my verdict.
Dave
After a 1/4 hour, the moment of truth - the masks peeled off................................
Well, there has been a fair amount of bleed, there are too many depressions etc to expect any different. The worst being the black - despite this being the only brush painted part. The really good part is that was no paint lifting - the priming & overnight drying has given good paint adhesion.
I now have to add all the other details, like the bar armour around the sprockets, and the auxiliary fuel tanks, & all the other bits that would have really interfered with the mask. Then, I'll touch up all the paint bleeds......
The jury's still out on the paper masks - I'll wait until I've done the turret before passing my verdict.
Dave
Looks very effective.
Richard48
SMF Supporter
Thats some great looking camo work Dave.Very impressive.Dentist!!!,Arghhhh.Not my favourite place ever.Keep up the great work.
Richard
Richard
Impressed with those tracks, although tricky from what you said I think I could manage those at a push. Lets hope others take this up, well I can dream
That camo is very neat and sharp, nice.
That camo is very neat and sharp, nice.
David Lovell
SMF Supporter
Big thumbs-up Dave ,doesn't seem to be too much to touch up plus the more you have a go with these masks the more you learn the better it gets both application and paint job its that learning curve thing but hey this whole hobby is just that . As we both know its nothing to do with the brand name its whats in the box this is a prime example what a cracking looking kit. Bring on the turret then these modern day monsters have loads to go at washes filters, weathering etc looking forward to your next move. Dave.