1.350 WOODEN DECKS

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does anybody know a supplier in this country who can do a 1.350 wooden deck for a trumpy hms dreadnought at a reasonable price? wem are expensive and i think their delivery time needs jigging up a bit.
 

Alan 45

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Try white ensign they do a lot of wooden decks I've got ones for Yamato and Queen Elizabeth :smiling3:
 
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aint there anything cheaper Al, not being tight but twenty five quid seems so disproportionate compared to the cost of the model
 

Alan 45

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Not that I know of mate I think the price is high due to it being etched by laser , it is dear I agree but that's how they get us isn't it , I wanted the full PE for Yamato and it was £114 , so I decided on railings and deck for £40
 

eddiesolo

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Make one out of cardboard Rob. Use the original deck as a template, then use the computer to add the decking to some paper, once done glue onto thin card, once done and all dry coat in varnish. Maybe a fiddle but could work out a lot cheaper, just an idea mate.

Si:smiling3:
 
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\ said:
Not that I know of mate I think the price is high due to it being etched by laser , it is dear I agree but that's how they get us isn't it , I wanted the full PE for Yamato and it was £114 , so I decided on railings and deck for £40
114 must include the model?
 

eddiesolo

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could be good si, ill give it a test run.
Worth a try, if you could get the wooden deck plan then you can approximate the deck lengths and widths of the planks-near enough. Just leave blank areas around the gun turrets etc as these may have rounded wooden areas. But for a bit of time, ink and paper may work a treat.

Si:smiling3:
 

eddiesolo

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\ said:
114 must include the model?
\ said:
si, i was being serious.... thats never for just the pe?
I hit the wrong do-da Rob. I think that does include the model as the Eduard set for the Tamiya is around the £30 mark.

Si:smiling3:
 

Ian M

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Nope thats just the PE. The New Yamato kit is also pigging expensive But you do get a truck load of brass.

If you have the decks and can get a planking plan and dont want to paint them, print the planking plan onto decal film. Job done.

Or buy some wood, a steel rule and a pack of blades. Black paper between the planks makes good tar laps.

Ian M
 
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Graham D

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\ said:
Nope thats just the PE. The New Yamato kit is also pigging expensive But you do get a truck load of brass.If you have the decks and can get a planking plan and dont want to paint them, print the planking plan onto decal film. Job done.

Or buy some wood, a steel rule and a pack of blades. Black paper between the planks makes good tar laps.

Ian M
Can you get wood that thin, or would you have to turn it on its side and use the thickness of the wood as plank, but that would mean a lot of sanding to get the planks the correct thickness.
 

Ian M

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I believe that RC shops have some planking right down to 0,5mm

I can only say it would be way beyond me in that scale.... I would either paint it or make a decal.

Ian M
 

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iv got a yamato in 350 scale sitting 2 years and pe or extras are adding up , it is hard to know when to stop ,but it is still sitting there for another while so no more money :eek:
 

Ian M

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Rob, Have you seen these: http://artwox.com/index.php?document_srl=4061 they look pretty good.
 
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cheers ian, yes i have seen those. only trouble is , you can only get them through wem. im sorry folks, but their stuff is too expensive for a learner modeller. the end of the day....there only plastic kits we are trying to improve.
 
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Bunkerbarge

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Gents, don't forget that at 1/350th scale the thickness of the caulking is way less than anything you can put between the planks. At a rough guess I would say that full size caulking must be somewhere in the region of 10-15 mm wide so even going to an extreme of 20mm a 1/350th scale caulk would be around 0.06mm wide!!

I think at this scale you have to go for a comuter generated print or a home made water slide transfer to get the caulk somewhere close.

The reason the PE and wooden deck sets for models such as these are simply as a result of the very low numbers involved making the design and research costs proportionally very high. As has already been said though the PE frets are very extensive and the instructions make you realise that the PE itself is actually going to take far more modelling time than the plastic kit anyway so it could be argued that it is good value for money.

PE at this level is also not for the beginner so is probably really aimed at the serious experienced modeller who really does want the best that money can buy. I would very much recomend starting out with PE in a much smaller way before progressing to this sort of thing as it is a whole new set of skills to learn.
 

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\ said:
cheers ian, yes i have seen those. only trouble is , you can only get them through wem. im sorry folks, but their stuff is too expensive for a learner modeller. the end of the day....there only plastic kits we are trying to improve.
There are a couple of places that sell them. The one in Germany has them for £19.50 A bit cheaper, but the post might eat the saving.

I think that when you want to commit to such an undertaking, you need to weight the price against the final cost. The extra time involved in 'going the whole hog' does to a point alleviate the price if you do the pound per hour thing.

As Richard said in this scale, the caulking would hardly be discernible.

I would just paint the decks and save the money.

Ian M
 
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