Have you seen this?

S

Stevekir

Guest
\ said:
I will be using Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer again (solvent is Cellulose Thinners), this time for my truck. I have asked Barwellbodyworks whether it is suitable under that. I will report their reply.
Well! Here is the reply:

"Thank you for your enquiry,


I'm sorry I don't know as I know nothing about Tamiya Products


regards Steve


Barwell Bodyworks"

You would think he would enlarge his business world a bit, to look for uses for his product. I will do an experiment on some scrap, sometime.
 
L

Laurie

Guest
Well he is honest Steve. It is a new product and nothing much seems to be known about it.


Got my 3 bottles. Tried the grey on an old bit of plastic. To be fair I should have washed the plastic and as I usually


do wet and drie.


Pushed it thro an H & S .4 and no problem at all ie no thinning. assume you would use water as it is water based.


Very thin and did not obliterate detail. 15 mins. and it was dry to touch. Easily to scrape off with the finger nail.


After a couple of hours it was very resistant and scraping a nail along the surface the primer had a sheen


indicating it was sticking and hardened.


Sanding with a medium grade worked well with the edges flat with the plastic. Applied Mr Surfacer 500 filler


and this has not affected the primer. Not tried yet a coat of Vallejo on top.


Sanding Vallejo as I did above would have torn the primer from the plastic and created , however carefully


sanded, a blunt edge.


Not had quite the same result or total enthusiasm that Flory showed, yet. But time will tell. But there is no


doubt it dries quicker and can be sanded earlier than Vallejo.


Tried Vallejo cleaner to clean the airbrush. After 4 cups full the paint still showed up. Water I found is best.


When I get Vallejo paint on my fingers I use Vallejo cleaner to remove. Found that with the same method with


Stynylrez the paint came off but in little balls.


Be interested to find what others think.


Laurie
 
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Just sprayed my F4 with the white primer using my Neo and a .35 needle with no thinning and no clogging issues, clean up was done in seconds using concentrated screen wash and as Laurie said no detail was lost.


Very impressed and I can see myself using this as a preferred primer.


Adrian
 
L

Laurie

Guest
Yes I am impressed as well Adrian very impressed.


Sanded down the Mr surfacer filler. This was perfect with a really feathered edge without either the filler breaking


away from the primer or the primer breaking away or rolling up from the plastic.


Airbrushed a coat of Model air. Would have been better with the real thing to recoat primer over the filler and parts


scratched (they were sanded to a feather). paint went on perfectly with a great finish. all the feather edges where


sanded were perfect with out any shining thro.


Couple of hours and this primer is perfect for sanding and filling over. Very impressive.


The 60 ml bottles are weighty not much difference between a Vallejo 200ml. May be more expensive that Vallejo


suppose about double. But from my first experience this stuff covers very thinly so the cost difference is not so much.


You pay for impatience and Stynylrez will shorten waiting time dramatically and is far superior to Vallejo at least on this first outing.


One complaint "Stynylrez" who thought that up.


Any one want a load of Vallejo primer many assorted colours :rolleyes:


Thanks Barry for posting about this primer. :smiling3:


Laurie
 
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john

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\ said:
John - could you see if you can stock it for future reference?
I'm already on with it, I contacted Barewell as they say on their site they importers and distributors but when I spoke to them they said they have too many people selling it, bit bizarre, I've emailed Badger direct so will hopefully will know soon if I can get it, it does look good stuff.
 

BarryW

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Over the weekend I found a test of this primer (what a name....) used in conjunction with AKI Extreme Metal. I think it was on the Flory site as Phil also did an Extreme Metal test and, while impressed overall, he found it peeled and/or marked when masked which as a disappointment.


This chap found that having left the primer to cure for 24 hours a thin spray of the AKI Extreme Metal paint went down a dream with no subsequent peeling or marks when ripping off masking tape. Another plus point for this primer. I suspect that it would work just as well with just half an hour to an hour curing time. I will have to give it a try.
 
L

Laurie

Guest
\ said:
I'm already on with it, I contacted Barewell as they say on their site they importers and distributors but when I spoke to them they said they have too many people selling it, bit bizarre, I've emailed Badger direct so will hopefully will know soon if I can get it, it does look good stuff.
I am sure John that is rubbish as no one other than Barewell have it for sale. When I bought mine,


the day that Barry wrote on here, they hardly had any stock. I had to buy a set of 3 as all the other


options were sold out..


Laurie
 
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It may be of use to some here's where they will be at shows selling it.


Colours-Newbury and Reading Saturday 12th Sept


Class South Wales Sunday 27th Sept


Derby World Wargames 3rd & 4th October


Sadly they won't be at Telford due to " Product conflicts" as they told me


Adrian
 
L

Laurie

Guest
\ said:
I will be using Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer again (solvent is Cellulose Thinners), this time for my truck. I have asked Barwellbodyworks whether it is suitable under that. I will report their reply.
Hi Steve


Tried neat cellulose thinners on the STYNYIREZ and it acted like paint stripper but quicker.


No charge for this experiment Steve. It was conducted for the benefit of all mankind.


Apart from the human element, me, no animals took part in this experiment :smiling3:


Laurie
 
A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
\ said:
Some more information plus reviews of the product. So far not heard any bad things only amazement at how good the stuff is.
Not heard yet about using Mr Hobby fillers over the top or how other paints adhere.


Badger in their blurb mention 24 hours for full cure. All the reviewers seem to be with 15mins to 39 mins.


Also Badger mention a .5 brush. Below uses a .3 and another thins presumably water being water based primer.


Laurie


http://www.badgerairbrush.com/PDF/STYNYLREZflyer.pdf


http://jayadan.com/blog/2014/5/15/stynylrez-review-update


http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/new-badger-primers-stynylrez
I Don't use vallejo primer-nasty stuff- I don't like it that much, as I am a quick builder. I use Mr hobby 1000 thinned, and spray it over my model like a primer (it is a primer anyway, but also a hybrid filler surfacer). Because it is cellulose based, it is compatible with enamels, all acrylics and lacquers. It gives the toughest finish I have ever used. In my opinion, I don't need anything else. The paint adhesion properties to plastic is excellent, and the paint adhesion to it is also excellent. Sure-it is messy, but it is worth it. Needle sizes don't matter, but if you have an iwata set on a .2, I recommend retracting the needle past halfway, otherwise you will end with blockages.


John
 
L

Laurie

Guest
\ said:
I Don't use vallejo primer-nasty stuff- I don't like it that much, as I am a quick builder. I use Mr hobby 1000 thinned, and spray it over my model like a primer (it is a primer anyway, but also a hybrid filler surfacer). Because it is cellulose based, it is compatible with enamels, all acrylics and lacquers. It gives the toughest finish I have ever used. In my opinion, I don't need anything else. The paint adhesion properties to plastic is excellent, and the paint adhesion to it is also excellent. Sure-it is messy, but it is worth it. Needle sizes don't matter, but if you have an iwata set on a .2, I recommend retracting the needle past halfway, otherwise you will end with blockages.
John
I use Mr Hobby 1000 after I have rescribed lines or over a big fill. Brings the surface


up to the condition of the smooth plastic.


Then, sacrilege I know John, I use Vallejo primer although that may now change. I do not use


any cellulose or lacquer based airbrush products. Just hate the smell and gives me a headache.


Actually I believe that Mr Hobby is a lacquer based product. Not that I know the difference between


lacquer and cellulose. Do know that as mentioned cellulose strips Stynirez but tolerates Mr Hobby Surfacer.


Laurie
 
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L

Laurie

Guest
Primed all the cockpit of my latest an Apache last night with "Styny".


Just airbrushed the top coat and the finish is superb. There is no thickness


at all with the Styny and with the top coat of Vallejo air there is no loss


whatsoever of the detail, so crisp.


No need for any correction of the Styny surface. Some went on a bit thicker


than wanted but it levelled out and no loss of detail.


This Styny goes a long way. Seems you need about half the number of drops


compared to Vallejo.


Laurie
 
J

John Rixon

Guest
\ said:
Primed all the cockpit of my latest an Apache last night with "Styny".
Just airbrushed the top coat and the finish is superb. There is no thickness


at all with the Styny and with the top coat of Vallejo air there is no loss


whatsoever of the detail, so crisp.


No need for any correction of the Styny surface. Some went on a bit thicker


than wanted but it levelled out and no loss of detail.


This Styny goes a long way. Seems you need about half the number of drops


compared to Vallejo.


Laurie
Was this straight out of the bottle Laurie?


This stuff sounds like it might have hit the spot!


And part of me still wishes I had my Badger 200;)
 
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Adrian
\ said:
Was this straight out of the bottle Laurie?
This stuff sounds like it might have hit the spot!


And part of me still wishes I had my Badger 200;)
Forgive me jumping in, I use this all the time now and spray straight from the bottle


Adrian
 

PhilJ

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Forgive me jumping in, I use this all the time now and spray straight from the bottle
Adrian
This is the badger styney stuff your talking about ade right? If so you rate it as well yeah?
 
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\ said:
This is the badger styney stuff your talking about ade right? If so you rate it as well yeah?
Oh yes,, I used to use Tamiya fine spray when I started out, then onto Halfords primers, which I still use but tend to flat them off.


With the Badger stuff its like using Tamiya Fine primer with no nasty smell and it dries in 30 mins max needing no rubbing down.


Only draw back I would have to say is so far the lack of colours, just black, grey and white, no desert tan yet :smiling3:


Adrian
 
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