Iwata HP-CS question

GhostRider27

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Hey guys.. I just scored an Iwata HP-CS off eBay sealed in box.. Magnificent tool.

I broke the airbrush down, to lube etc…

The airbrush may have sat for awhile, but it did arrive sealed and new… All the parts broke down perfect without issue but the airbrush nozzle is stuck inside the body of the airbrush… Im sure it’s dry and has been there for awhile. I can back the needle out no issues but any recommendations how I can get the nozzle out without damaging it??

Many thanks!!!

-Ed
 

Jakko

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Which bit specifically are you asking about?

iwata-high-performance-plus-C-part_c45d6a85-87e5-4eed-9ad8-5ee524160d7c.jpg


Nozzles I1103 and I1403 should come off without tools, but for I0808 you need the tool supplied with the airbrush.
 
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GhostRider27

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Which bit specifically are you asking about?

iwata-high-performance-plus-C-part_c45d6a85-87e5-4eed-9ad8-5ee524160d7c.jpg


Nozzles I1103 and I1403 should come off without tools, but for I0808 you need the tool supplied with the airbrush.
This one my friend I hope the image transmits…
 

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Jim R

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Jakko is right. The nozzle needs a little spanner which is supplied with the airbrush. It fits on the opposite flat sides and unscrews.
 
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flyjoe180

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There's a difference in the nozzle between the HP-C plus and the HP-CS which Ed has. The spray nozzle in my HP-CS gets stuck, it is a compression fit and they are very tight. It is not necessarily due to a dirty airbrush, it is a common 'fault' with the HP-CS. Don't force it off, or you risk damaging the nozzle tip.

If you are concerned about it, do an internet search for "HP-CS nozzle stuck". There are solutions that do not involve poking things into the nozzle or forcing it, namely the use of lacquer thinner and/or boiling water.
 

GhostRider27

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There's a difference in the nozzle between the HP-C plus and the HP-CS which Ed has. The spray nozzle in my HP-CS gets stuck, it is a compression fit and they are very tight. It is not necessarily due to a dirty airbrush, it is a common 'fault' with the HP-CS. Don't force it off, or you risk damaging the nozzle tip.

If you are concerned about it, do an internet search for "HP-CS nozzle stuck". There are solutions that do not involve poking things into the nozzle or forcing it, namely the use of lacquer thinner and/or boiling water.
Thanks fellas. I brushed some Iwata Lube around the base, then gently pried/pulled it with soft jaw pliers. It came out relatively easy, no damage whatsoever. Good score for me finding this for $105.00!!
 

Tim Marlow

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I have a HP-SBS, which has the same construction, just being side fed rather than top fed. It isn’t the same as Jakko’s illustration, not needing a tool to remove the nozzle. It’s this one isn’t it.
1B22A738-2CEE-4657-964B-C3AC07D18981.jpeg
Glad you got it out OK.
Just remember to put a spot of lube on the taper fit when reassembling it and you won’t get that problem again. Don’t over tighten the nut on the securing cover either. I only ever do mine up hand tight, rarely using the supplied spanner.
I did a thread on here somewhere about how I hot rodded mine to make it easier to strip down for cleaning.
 

Tim Marlow

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Just for interest, it’s here Ed.
 

Jim R

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I didn't realise the CS had a taper fit nozzle. I wrongly thought that the fragile little screw in one was common across the range. So apologies to you Ed for adding to your confusion. Glad it's sorted anyway.
 
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GhostRider27

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I have a HP-SBS, which has the same construction, just being side fed rather than top fed. It isn’t the same as Jakko’s illustration, not needing a tool to remove the nozzle. It’s this one isn’t it.
View attachment 492467
Glad you got it out OK.
Just remember to put a spot of lube on the taper fit when reassembling it and you won’t get that problem again. Don’t over tighten the nut on the securing cover either. I only ever do mine up hand tight, rarely using the supplied spanner.
I did a thread on here somewhere about how I hot rodded mine to make it easier to strip down for cleaning.
That is exactly what I did!
 

Richard48

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Weĺl i can say that at aged 54 i have never ever used a double action airbrush.I bought a compressor and Aztec airbrush back in 2008 but never used them.I live in a small flat and always concerned using it because of overspray and fumes I used to have a badger 200 single action and not devoted the time to modelling i should have to my cost technique and practice wise.
Richard
 
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Jakko

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I bought a compressor and Aztec airbrush back in 2008 but never used them.I live in a small flat and always concerned using it because of overspray and fumes
If you use a spray booth with an extractor fan and an exhaust pipe out the window, that shouldn’t be a problem. I do my spraying in a small room in the attic, and you can’t smell it even a few steps away.
 
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GhostRider27

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Weĺl i can say that at aged 54 i have never ever used a double action airbrush.I bought a compressor and Aztec airbrush back in 2008 but never used them.I live in a small flat and always concerned using it because of overspray and fumes I used to have a badger 200 single action and not devoted the time to modelling i should have to my cost technique and practice wise.
Richard
I think you should use this airbrush! I know a guy who sprays acrylics in his kitchen, Vallejo I believe. I could be wrong about the brand, but he says they are true watercolors and doesn't even use a spray booth. Now... Is this something I would do, probably not but I do have a basic spray booth I got off Amazon with dual fans and led lighting inside. The dryer/vent outlet is included, and I open a window about an inch or so and wedge it between the window and frame. This is inside a spare bedroom and at first, I was apprehensive, but I sprayed an entire 1/48 F-15E w/ Mr. Surfacer lacquer-based primer, and AK Real Color Lacquer.

I run the booth and crack open a slider for airflow, and when I'm finished there is no odor whatsoever.

Practice with that single action and I'm sure you'll want a decent double action very soon!

Cheers!

Ed
 
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