Oil Wash

[Krieg-Hammer]

I have been reading various articles on weathering, and most of these include an oil wash but they never say why. Do they mean as an oil effect? Or is it some type of oil based paint to bring out the features of weathering? Any help on this would be great.

Thanks

 

[yak face]

Hi krieg, the oil wash spoken of is usually an oil based paint heavily thinned and washed over an acrylic finish. The different formulations of the two paints means that they wont react or mark each other so the wash can be wiped off if necessary , just leaving the wash in the recesses giving the shading effect. Standard enamels can be used ,thinned with white spirit or turps or a lot of people use artists oil paints, again usually with white spirit as a thinner. Im sure plenty of other people will chip in but i hope this helps for a quick starter, cheers tony

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Have a read through these;

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/tutorials/11282-weathering-questions.html#post81657

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/tutorials/11245-simple-basic-wash-tutortial.html

 

[Krieg-Hammer]

Ok interesting threads. Is Kleer still a viable option for applying a gloss coat? I read somewhere recently that a main ingredient had changed and modellers dont use it anymore. I plan to paint my model with Arcylic paints. I am trying to create a Normandy scheme Panther tank. I already have Tamiya arylic khaki paint. Do you think this will be ok to use as wash? Will Tamiya paint thinner be suitable for this? I am off to my local model shop tomorrow to see what I can pick up.

 

[stona]

Much discussed is Klear. The original formula is virtually impossible to find except at ridiculous prices online. You can use the new formula version,I believe it was Graham (Fenlander) who tested it for us with good results. There are also other alternatives like the one I posted here.

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/quick-tips/11473-klear-alternative.html

If you use an acrylic wash in acrylic thinners over a model painted with acrylic paints you risk messing up your paint job.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Bunkerbarge]

An easy and safe method of washes that is compatable with enamel or acrylic base colours is an oil paint. Buy yourself a couple of tubes of oil paint such as prime colours and a couple of browns and a large bottle of turpentine and you are set to make washes for most situations which won't disturb either enamels or acrylics.

 

[Krieg-Hammer]

So more or less, if using acrylic paints as primer, camouflage paint scheme with a gloss over, I need to form an oil paint wash so I don't disturb the acrylic paint?

I was in my local art shop today and picked up pastels for crushing to form dust/mud effects. A bit off topic, but for applying this effect, can I use Tamiya acrylic thinner to do this? Or will this ruin the paint job? I would have thought oil wash would protect the acrylic paint. I saw dome videos on you tube where modellers use rubbing alcohol which is a similar formula to the Tamiya thinner.

Since starting this hobby a couple of months ago, I have realised its not as simple as it looks

 

[Bunkerbarge]

From what you say above I'm not sure what your process is. If you are using acrylic as a primer what paint are you using for a top coat and what is the gloss over type?

As for using acrylic thinners over acrylic paint you are running the risk of disturbing the base colour. I would mix the pastels with turpentine or even water to avoid this. An oil wash will not protect the acrylic paint, the solvent evaporates away leaving only the pigment sat on top of the base coat.

I'm not sure if we are getting some terms mixed up here so just to clarify:

1) Primer is a first coat of paint used to either prepare the colour of the surface to better accept a top colour as well as show up any imperfections that may need addressing. It is not always required and many modellers only use one if necessary.

2) Base colour is a top coat colour but is the paint applied as the background for a camoflage scheme, so darker colours may be applied over it or as a colour before washes and weathering are applied. It could be over a primer or it could be the first coat but it wil be a visible colour when finished.

3) Clear coats are used to either change the finish from gloss to matt or matt to gloss and have no colour. They are used to either prepare a surface for transfers (decals) or to seal in weathering which could rub off with handling such as washes or to provide a surface for weathering such as washes to be applied to and enable easy removal of the excess. Most modellers finish thier model with a sprayed coat of clear to seal in the weathering and transfers.

It's maybe not as simple as you first think but a bit of practise and experience and a lot of questions and you will get there.

 

[stona]

For your first question,yes,go with an oil based wash over your acrylics. You could also use a water based wash,something like the Promodeller "sludge washes".

I don't really use pastels anymore but I used to use water or Klear to apply them before sealing them in with a varnish. Others will certainly be more knowledgeablle about this!

Like any hobby it's as easy or hard as you want to make it! If you are starting out I think it's important not to try and run before you can walk. Concentrate on getting the basics of construction and painting right and then begin to develop your skills with other techniques. Washing and weathering are far more art than science and you need to develop a method that suits you and,most importantly,makes your models look how you like them. I'm afraid there is no short cut for this,it will take a bit of trial and error and practice. I've been practicing for many years and I still learn something on every model I build lol.

Finally a forum like this is a great resource,there are plenty of us who will do our best to help you out, but in the end it will be you sloshing that wash on your model.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Krieg-Hammer]

At the mö, all the information I'm reading I'm trying to make sense of it.

What I've got is a 1:35 scale tiger battle tank. I've bought smaller scale models to practice on before I go onto the real thing.

Anyway, I have the paint now for the model, all acrylic to paint the camo scheme. So, really I don't need to use a primer if I don't want to?

I have my smaller models assembled ready for painting. So once the top coat is applied, and decals on, will the next step be a clear gloss coat before any wash applied? This is a stage I don't feel comfortable with.

I'm looking at Vallejo paints for the rust and worn steel effects, but maybe I should 'walk' first before getting bogged down in too much detail.

I might go back to art shop and get some brown and yellow oils for the wash.

 

[stona]

Primer. There are many opinions on this! If your plastic is clean and grease free (that includes fingerprints!) you shouldn't have to prime. Now,having said that, I do prime prior to applying acrylic paints. There are two reasons. Firstly the paint does adhere better to the primer than to the bare plastic in my experience. Secondly a primer coat will show any flaws or blemishes in your model before you spray your camo scheme and allow you to fix them much more easily at this stage than later.

Achieving invisible seams and a food paint finish are precisely the basics I was referring to earlier. These things are much more easily said than done,even the most experienced modellers come unstuck from time to time,I certainly do.

On your second question you should apply your top coat and allow it to dry AND cure. Your acrylics will seem dry in a matter of minutes but you should leave them at least overnight before putting anything over them.

Next apply a clear gloss coat. This will provide a smooth surface for the decals and minimise the chance of "silvering". Silvering is when air trapped under the decal or even (microscopically) in the surface of an uneven paint layer prevents the decal film from becoming invisible.

Once that clear coat is dry you can apply your decals. Do whatever you need to do with setting solutions etc before proceeding to the next step.

When you are happy with your decals and everything is dry apply another clear coat. This will seal your decals in and protect both them and your paint job from the weathering.

Now,finally,you can move on to weathering.

Take your time,there is no way to rush this. If you don't allow things time to dry I guarantee you'll make a mess! It's not as difficult as it seems when it's written out like this,I'm sure you'll be fine. Any questions just fire away,and good luck with the models.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Krieg-Hammer]

Thanks for the heads up. With regards to primer, what would you recommend? Do you always use the same primer for what ever model you do? Does it need to be specific for acrylic paints?

 

[Bunkerbarge]

If you are in the UK Halfords car spray cans of acrylic primer are fine. It comes in black, white, grey and red and is very convenient and easy to use. You can go over this with acrylics or enamels.

 

[stona]

I'll second what Richard (Bunkerbarge) said. I use the grey Halfords Plastic Primer. Be careful applying it as it is easy to get far too heavy a coat on. Just mist it on from a distance and keep that can moving.

Steve

 

[Krieg-Hammer]

Yeah I'm in the UK and Halfords is only 5 mins along the road I might get the red stuff, been reading a lot of people prime German Panzers in 'hull red'. Primer for plastics?