P.E Tutorial

N

Nigel.D

Guest
Right As i have promised here is the pe tutorial

part one deals with making pe parts

Ok so you want to make or put a pe part into a model this will help! its not the be all and end all it is a simple way to make photo etched parts that most people can easily accomplish with a few basic tools

so here we go!

First of all you need to decide what part or bit you want to etch#then its a simple mater of drawing it in a cad programme i use cadvance which is free see here http://www.cadvance.com/65form.htm using this programme you can draw you parts whatever size and them reduce them for your printer to produce the actual size required! now here is the good bit all you need is some overhead projector film with which you print out two copies! one for the front and one for the back of your bit of brass sheet you have to measure accurately so that both sheets are positioned front and back correctly then taped together on two sides (this will then give you a pocket in which to slide the brass sheet into. Now take your peice of brass and clean it thouroghly no fingerprints or grease to be seen on it at all (best use cotton gloves to handle it) Now if you pay a visit to maplins you can buy a basic photo etch set for about 14.00 mix up some photo resist and then dip your brass sheet into it making sure that it is well covered (do not touch the sheet with bare fingers) place the sheet under a dish and let it dry! or you can put it into a oven on very low heat to help it along the way. Once dry you can insert the brass sheet between the pouch of carrier film then tape down the open ends. Now if you have an ultra violet light expose the film to it for about 2 to 2 1/2 minutes per side! You can just take it out into the garden if its a sunny day but you will need to leave it exposed for anything between 10 to 20 mins now take you brass sheet out of the pouch and dip it into a bath of the developing solution 20 to 30 secs is usually enough then a quick dip in distilled water to stop the process and your ready to etch! A plastic etching tray also available from maplins is a good buy if your going to be doing a lot of etching ! into this you mix your etching powder and water the water needs to be about 40 to 50 c make sure that your brass sheet is totally imersed in the solution i use a couple of pegs to hold the edges and suspend the sheet in the solution tray (oh you must use rubber gloves this stuff is acid just remember that if it can eat brass what will it do to your skin) After about 10 mins remove the brass to see how far the etching process has got if complete fine if not put back in and check every minute to see when completed ! once your happy take the part out and rinse under running water and you now have your own individual PE parts.
 
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S

squiffythewombat

Guest
Yay....same as my backgrounds then....time.....why dont we have more of it!!!!
 
U

Uncivil Serpent

Guest
Looking forward to this guys when you get the time.

If I can ask a question first..... please.

When soldering PE using active type flux, can you suggest a suitable cleaning fluid for after soldering has finished. IE something to stop the flux carrying on reacting. Does that make sense?

Regards

Chris
 

wonwinglo

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Barry
***Chris,wash in a mix of bicarbonate of soda applied with a stiff artists brush,this has the effect of stopping any acid creep,we used to use this on aircraft electrical connections,sorry to intrude Nigel.

Looking forward to this guys when you get the time.If I can ask a question first..... please.

When soldering PE using active type flux, can you suggest a suitable cleaning fluid for after soldering has finished. IE something to stop the flux carrying on reacting. Does that make sense?

Regards

Chris
 
S

squiffythewombat

Guest
Looking forward to this guys when you get the time.If I can ask a question first..... please.

When soldering PE using active type flux, can you suggest a suitable cleaning fluid for after soldering has finished. IE something to stop the flux carrying on reacting. Does that make sense?

Regards

Chris
You solder your PE stuff? have i missed something as ive yet to see this being done? is this like a boating thing?
 
U

Uncivil Serpent

Guest
You solder your PE stuff? have i missed something as ive yet to see this being done? is this like a boating thing?
Not just aboating thing Squiffy, I believe railway chaps do it as well. It gives far greater strength to the joints when soldered. I found it does take a little practice, and being used to multi core solder I wasn't sure on the flux situation.

Many thanks Barry, now to get the bi-carb from the kitchen before she notices its gone. Any particular strength I need to make up.

:regards:

Chris
 
B

Bunkerbarge

Guest
If you buy the OWS U-Boat kit the tower comes as a set of PE parts that you solder together. The result is quite a superb model in its own right.
 
N

Nigel.D

Guest
No probs guys i have just been busy with work etc !!! As Barry says bicarb is brilliant if you havent got any try andrews liver salts or epsom salts both just as good but not as cheap
 
R

rjwood_uk

Guest
dont worry nigel, i dont want to rush you...i know your a very busy man at the moment, but i cant wait for this tutorial!!!

espcially as you know i am going to be working with p.e for my Musashi in the very near future! :D
 
R

rjwood_uk

Guest
brilliant nigel!!! thats is going to come in real handy for eveyone im sure of it!!!

and as for the sunny day....lucky it comming up to summer ay!!!

thanks alot nigel.
 
S

squiffythewombat

Guest
Did i miss the tutorial as i cant see it, just two of your posts richard??????
 
R

rjwood_uk

Guest
nigel has just edited his first post in this thread to include the tutorial!
 
A

alan2525

Guest
Has anyone used Press-n-Peel?

Rather than using UV it's a process where you can print directly onto the Press-n-Peel with a laser printer or photocopier, apply to a piece of brass, use an iron to fix it and then remove the carrier film, leaving everything but the parts that were printed (the toner prevents the press-n-peel sticking to the brass.

It sounds quite effective and possibly may be a little tougher and stand up to etchant better too?

Here's a link for the site:

http://www.cibs.co.uk/etch/x7.html
 
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