Revell paints question..

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Saber

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I am slightly confused about the painting numbers in Revell kits, my next model is going to a the Revell Focke-Wulf Fw 200 and the painting number say that M is a mix of two paints each. M is a mix of number 47 and 45 to a ratio of 90% num 47 and 10% of 45. 47 is mouse gray and 47 is light olive. This is supposed to be RLM 70 what ever that is. So my question is by mixing these two tins of paints to the ratio given will I be mixing the correct colour? And why dont they just produce a tin of paint that is RLM 70 rather then having to mix up a 90% plus 10% effort?
 
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Revell don't do these RLM colours.So they give you a mix ratio in the hope that you will use their paints.For RLM colours i use Xtracolour enamels which I buy from Wonderland models off the Internet.They also sell the Xtracrylics range if you prefer to use acrylics.Their postal service is good,although you need to buy several tins to make it worth your while.
 
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Saber

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Cheers Dave that sounds weird though you would have thought Revell would have made the RLM colours. I am happy enough to mix them but not sure if it will give me a decent colour.

I dont like acrylics very much have tried them but with a good compressor they tend to clog up and spit and they run all over the place on the plastic if its not washed. I will take a look at these Xtracolour enamels though my be a set of Luft colours will be worth investing in.
 
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Another thing I like about the Xtracolour enamels is they dry to a gloss finish.Perfect for putting decals on.No need to bother with Klear or gloss varnish before applying decals.
 
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Saber

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that sounds good I have built up quite a collection of revell paints now though so changing over to a new brand is going to be expensive sigh.
 

stona

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RLM 70 is just a very dark green,black-green (Schwarzgrun in German). Several manufacturers do equivalents.

Which Fw 200 are you doing? I'm interested as RLM 70 was not a usual maritime camouflage colour,doesn't mean it's not right though :smiling3:

Cheers

Steve
 
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phalinmegob

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i use revell acrylics and dont have a problem with them, i thin them using tamiya thinners rather than water as i find it works better. the only problems is the mettalics in the range,these do not seem to like being thinned and seem to go gloopy and will not go through my airbrush, for this i use tamiya which airbrush beautifully but are rubbish with a hairy stick.i tend not to get too hung up on colours as long as they are close but have found that the revell mixes stated on their instructions are pretty close and i suppose that they must do their research. if the paint is running all over your model then maybe you are thinning them too much or the pressure is set too high on the compressor.i have mine set at about 18psi. i maybe courting controversy here but i have NEVER EVER(and dont see the need to) washed a kit before painting. the reason for buying revell paints at the time was that my local model shop sold only those or humbol enamels and i was fed up of buying a few at a time for each model so i went down one day and negotiated a deal to buy one of every colour in the range.the main problem with mixing is making enough to cover the model so i always mix a lot more than i need and store them in little paint pots that got from a shop called "the works". find em here, every modeller should have some of these Multipurpose Plastic Paint Pots - £0.99 - Arts & Craft Accessories at The Works
 
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Saber

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\ said:
RLM 70 is just a very dark green,black-green (Schwarzgrun in German). Several manufacturers do equivalents.Which Fw 200 are you doing? I'm interested as RLM 70 was not a usual maritime camouflage colour,doesn't mean it's not right though :smiling3:

Cheers

Steve
The model in question is this one...

Revell 1:72 Scale Fw 200 C-4 Condor Bomber

Here is a link to the manual pdf with the paint scheme. http://manuals.hobbico.com/rvl/80-4678.pdf I intend to do the Norway Spring 1945 version on page 12 using RLM 73 72 70 65 76 should prove a bit of a challenge for my air brushing skills.
 
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Saber

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Cheers Andrew, that's very helpful. I also bought the Revell enamels because that's what my local shop stocks and its easy to nip down town and get the tin I need. I had a load of Humbrol paints to start me off from when I began model making 10 years ago. Some of those Humbrol paints I bought are 12 years old and still in use!

So I now have a good collection of Revell paints in enamel's. Making the move to Acrylic's is a bit of an issue for me though, I have used the small acrylic pots that I got with some Revell kits and found them rather iffy. They sometimes lifted when removing the tape off masked areas and tend to sputter in my air brush. I think this may just be my old compressor which is a piston one with no air tank so it may not be gutsy enough to give a decent air flow.

However I take your point that they are working well for you and they must be nicer to work with then stinky old enamels and white spirit which I thin them with. Might take the plunge and buy a load if I get a decent compressor this Christmas.
 

stona

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\ said:
I intend to do the Norway Spring 1945 version on page 12 using RLM 73 72 70 65 76 should prove a bit of a challenge for my air brushing skills.
Cool. That's basically the standard maritime scheme of RLM 72/73 over 65 with an overspray of RLM 76.

Good luck!

Steve
 
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Saber

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Cheers Steve should get the model by next Tuesday in the post and will start a new thread for it, its about the same size as my last one the Ju 290 so really looking forward to building this one.
 
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phalinmegob

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forgot to mention that allthough i have never washed a kit before painting, i always prime it first and (touch wood) never had a problem with paint lifting except once when i tried to use standard masking tape from work rather than the tamiya type tape.
 
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Fenlander

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I must say that I love Revell Aqua acrylics. They are very thick in the pots and need loads of thinning (cheap to run ) Once you get the thinning right, they spray beautifully. I could not be without a pot of Anthracite the only colour I use for black on a model as it looks better than a 'real' black. The fact they do not make matched colours is the only thing stopping e using them as my main paints but they do brush better than many so it is a shame. For that reason, I use Vallejo almost exclusively now but I am getting a decent collection of AK Interactive colours which I still think are Vallejo anyway.
 
S

Saber

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The advantages of a not toxic less smelly quicker drying paint make a lot of sense but I need a better air compressor first then will consider buying them in bulk rather then trying to get a collection of pots over time. I guess if I'm going to get a full set of new paints for my model making getting the right one is going to be a major consideration as well as cost.
 
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Stevekir

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phalinmegob

I have just bought 24 of the multipurpose pots that you recommended. At £2.97 including postage (1 week), quite a bargain!!
 
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