shopping list. what do i need?

[Doggy]

Ok if you've read my intro youll know Im returning to modelling after a long long break.

As stated I have about 10 kits, some Airfix starter kits. so I have some paints, brushes, filler and glue.

I want to buy a good airbrush and compressor. But what else will I need? I assume a hose, brush stand, paint thinner (what one?), paint (what one?), masking tape, anything else?

I have some tools for cutting and filing. i would like to get all my stuff in place before I start anymore kits.

Thanks in advance.

 

[CDW]

can't help you with the airbrush as I don't use one but some things you could pick up would be sandpaper or some nail emery boards. some scribing tools to put detail back on that you may sand/file off when filling gaps. a set of clamps. assorted tweezers. some mixing pots so you can improvise paint colours. some small drill bits to open up or drill new holes. tippex for filling small areas. tape to hold parts together and to mask off areas.

the list is endless and you'll soon have a big collection of tools and accessories as you go on.

 

[Doggy]

Cheers. I was thinking alone those lines. I hadn't thought of a scribe or drills. I can get lots of stuff from work. What tape? I was using clothes peg to hold wings together. I have crocodile clips too but I think they might be too strong.

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

To hold fuselages together I use strips off an old t-Shirt, you can tie them as tight as you need to, just make sure there is no glue seeping through the seams, Tamiya tape can be used as well, there are specific clamp sets for modeling you can get.

As for airbrushes and compressors, thats a real can of worms, I bought a compressor online that came with a couple of airbrushes, they were ok for me till I got better at using them, now I use an Iwata Neo-CN gravity feed, at around £45 its ideal for my standards for now. Check out the ones in the shop.

Paints, well I only use acrylics, mainly Tamiyas, never had any issue with reactions to kits or mixing specific colours, I have used the Alclad II metal colours as I think they are really good ( though not acrylics )for cleaning I use Isopropanal, but trying out concentrated washer wiper fluid after reading a tip on a forum.

I use Klear for coating my models before applying the decals, if you dont want to spend £30 upwards on an original bottle the new formula is just as good, I tried both side by side,, its a floor polish btw

Little extras you might pick up along the way, cocktail sticks, sprue cutters, a decent set of sable brushes and a good pair of glasses for reading loads and loads of forum posts.

Good luck with the models and I hope to see pics of your builds as you go.

Adrian

P.S, if you can there is a huge model show in Telford on 10th and 11th of November, well worth going to stock up on basics

 

[tecdes]

Doggy not sure what models you are making.

Mine are all aircraft. This is the basic list of things I use.

Cutting items form the sprue. Stanley knife is OK but better is a sprue cutter. They are like side cutters but the underside of the blades are flat (no bevel as side cutters) so they can cut close to the piece.

Pieces from the sprue need trimming where cut. I use a Morton Knife for which you have replacable blades & in a number of different shapes. Also need a range of to begin with sanding blades of different grit values.

Set of mini drill bits with a drill holder. Called a pin vice. They have a chuck & come in different sizes. You turn by hand. DO not bother with a wheel or ratchet type.

Tapes Tamiya OK but the Shop (does all listed here) has another maker which is not as expensive & I think better. I would get 3 sizes up to half inch. Get the holders as they are much easier to use.

Glue. I use Mr Cement. With this you can assemble for instance a fuselage then apply to the joints. The glue is drawn in & actually welds the plastic together. Also I use two CA glues a thin & a thick. Need a glue for clear plastic for windows screens etc.

Filler. Mr Surfacer 500. Some times use for small difficult areas Vallejo Filler in a tube with a long probe.

Selection of Wet & Dry papers 600 1200 & 1500

Tweezers. Get stainless steel with a spring. Aluminium I have discarded as not good. Get pair of open type & the type that hold the piece tight with out finger pressure.

Set of mini files.

That then constructs the aircraft ready for painting.

Airbrush see John's in the shop. Go for top gravity paint delivery. One that has interchangeable needle/nozzles. My advice do not go for cheap models.

Compressor most here use AB series. Go for one with an air tank. By experience they make a difference to those without a tank. Need fitted as most are a water filter.

Paint. I would go for to begin with for airbrush use Vallejo Model Air. Easy to use & very friendly to the user. There are many other but get used to one to begin with. Vallejo M Air is prepared specially for airbrushing but thinning is required at times so you will need Vallejo thinners. Also Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner & a set of brushes for cleaning the paint ways in the airbrush. Also Vallejo produce good airbrushing Varnishes which you will need.

Small set of good sable hand brushes.

SO that paints the aircraft.

Decalls. I coat with gloss Vallejo Varnish to avoid silvering. I use mainly water but you will also need most use Micro Sel & perhaps Micro Set.

To finish Vallejo Varnish Gloss, Satin or Matt. Matt finish is really matt.

These are all available in the shop & are my take on things & are the very basic things to produce a model. You will find a myriad of things in the shop & I just add all the time to this basic list.

Just checked some i have missed

Templates for lost panel lines & scriber. Also for remaking lost rivets a rivet wheel remaker.

White tack (blue stains I found). Clamps. Cotton buds. Toothpicks. Turntable for painting. Cutting Mat. Very sharp small scissors, dressmakers are good.

A load of patience. Something to hit on occasion (not wife). Magnified eyes to spot a lost piece on the floor. And finally this Forum.

Laurie

 

[Doggy]

Wow. Great info, I'm slightly scared now. Lot of stuff to take in.

I found putting together the Spitfire a few weeks ago very therapeutic. the hand painting was ok but I find I'll need to give it 2 coats with the starter kit paints, is that normal?

Believe it or not I was up the attic loking for an old Badger brush from circa 84 and i found all my old books. Some from Bill Gunston and another one called scal modllrs hand book.

Inside I found all my old paint charts from the 80's, who keeps that stuff?

I was at a IPM thing in Glasgow recently and some of the work on display was amazing.

 

[stona]

Bill Gunston! A lot of his stuff was post my main era of interest but you'll have a valuable resource there!

Laurie I use Blu-Tac all the time with no stains. It is important that it is clean AND that your hands are clean before applying. I have a theory that staining may be due to "stuff" transferred from hands to model via the Tac. It's just a theory

That's a very good list you've done there by the way. I can't think of anything to add. Tool boxes tend to grow over time with those things you suddenly just have to have. Luckily this happens gradually over time and,thankfully,spreads the cost.

Cheers

Steve

 

[tecdes]

Laurie I use Blu-Tac all the time with no stains. It is important that it is clean AND that your hands are clean before applying. I have a theory that staining may be due to "stuff" transferred from hands to model via the Tac. It's just a theory

Steve

Actually Steve I did use some blue tack without thinking recently. After removal there was a stain but noticed that after 30 mins it had totally disappeared. Must be something on my hands which I produce naturally. Not dirt as I make sure they are always very clean before attempting any model making. Perhaps it is that expensive hand cleanser I get from the pound shop ?!?

Laurie