G
Graham D
Guest
Coming on nicely. The PE make all the difference
So true! I have decided to put it back into its packaging and paint it - to be honest, the moulded caulking is far more realistic, but viewed from most distances, the caulking wouldn't even register at this stage. Add to this the fact that after 6 months or so of being commisioned, that teak would be pretty much a dull greyish brown! Then, of course, there's the small matter of it adding a huge scale thickness to the deck!\ said:John, you are quite right about the deck caulking....It is way too wide. It's hard to judge, but I bet it's about a hand's span in real life!
I suppose the deck could be shaded a bit to hide the lines. I must confess to being very anti these kind of decks, so I guess I'm a bit bias.
Great work so far and your patience with the P.E. knows no bounds......I wouldn't even open the box!
Well, I'm quite impressed with the accuracy of the cut-outs etc, but they take AGES to remove every little hole, and there's many of them, and that was just the superstructure! But, and it's a big but, although they are very thin, they have a tangible thickness that does impact on some of the deck fittings, so some adjustments would be called for. I'm already at my limits of skill on this model, and the decks just add more issues than i can get my head around at the moment!\ said:I'm glad you agree John, I didn't want to put any sort of damper on an excellent start to your build.
I have the Tamiya 1/350 KG5 on the stocks and I had a look at the wooden decks for this. Then had a look at the plastic kit deck'', and when painted / weathered, could look far more realistic than the 'wooden' offerings.
You make a good point about the thickness of these decks...I know they are thin, but surely when fixed to the plastic deck and over various bits, would that not make those items ( capstans, winches and the like, shorter than they actually are, not to mention perhaps hiding some lower detail...and what about where they go over the various mouldings? Would they not leave a gap, however small, between the surfaces that would need to be filled?
Having typed all that, I could be wrong as I've never handled the things, but I have seen pictures on Google Images which bear out my thinking. Not to mention pictures on the packaging!
I'm quite prepared to be proven wrong.
Perhaps Derek or Graham would like to add their comments and findings, having both used these wooden decks.
Enough rambling..
Ron
Ain't that the truth! Try as I might, I still daren't tackle the funnel baffles:eek:\ said:We all have our limitations, and far better to know and accept when that has been reached, rather than stubbornly carry on, only to perhaps make an irretrievable mistake later.
Apart from anything else, this game is supposed to be fun!
Yup, and they are nuts! They are pretty much fuse-wire in section, and need folding up and outwards, to then be attached to an oval of brass in 8 places. Even if I achieved this, the risk of ruining it on it's way to the funnel is def-con Red! I really do admire folks who have achieved this on this model - there's an extraordinary build log over on the Model shipwrights forum! http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Dreadnought/Step49.JPG\ said:Simple answer...Don't! It's no big deal and by the time the funnel tops are weathered, I'll wager no one will ever know....except you and me.
Having written the above I presume the baffles are those cross lattice thingies inside the funnel tops?
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