Vallejo primer. What am I doing wrong?

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Laurie

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O Dave there I was deeply involved in a sabbatical away from this forum. When by a magnetic whim


I decided to read this forum. Not your fault it was another who is -----------------


Your problem is probably quite simple. You need at least 24 but best 48 hours before even touching


Vallejo primer. Plus before wet and dry the plastic to get rid of the shine and also give bite to the primer.


before priming clean with IPA with a brush not a cloth as the cloth will leave fibres.


However. Stynylerez primer is a revelation. It can be wet and dried within the hour. Stick with Tamiya tape


and sprayed with Vallejo Model Air. Yes all within the hour. Stynylerez has virtually no smell. I have used it a


number of times now and have not had any problems like *%&&U()_$ that have been suggested..


Try that Dave and you will be amazed.


But beware of the enamel camel. He has the hump.:rolleyes:


Laurie


Slumber back to the sabbatical. ;)
 
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I can see this going the same way as before. Keeping out of it right now! :cool:
 

Gern

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..... and here was me thinking I had a nice, simple problem to solve without the lid coming off the can of worms again! :D :D:D


's a good job we're all mates on here innit!
 
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Mention paint on here Dave and it opens a 10 litre can of dulux worms mate!!! ;)


Wouldn't it be nice to keep it simple! :smiling3:
 
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\ said:
That's the one I have Dave, got it from the same place, great price, quick service............just get it, it's great, I couldn't do without it. It pulls the paint particles away quickly, filters them and exhausts virtually fresh Air.
Is the extractor fan noisy, Dave? I'm quite interested in one of these.
 
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Is the extractor fan noisy, Dave? I'm quite interested in one of these.
It's not overly noisy, I think they've kept the noise to a minimum. It's a great unit, in my local model shop they have the same thing for £80+ an extra £20 for the hose just because it's an expo one, to me they are identical!


You can't go wrong.
 
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It would actually be cheaper for me to order one from the UK, including shipping, but unfortunately they're 240v and I need 110v, so I'll have to order one 'locally' from the U.S.
 

john i am

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Seriously folks sometimes this painting lark is made into a science sometimes.


All the problems that some of you have with vallejo products is shocking (Sorry in advance;))


I use vallejo primers all the time followed by model air straight from the bottle no thinners !


Never had any problems whatsoever .


Here is how apply mine.


1 make sure model is clean and dust free ( I always give a final wipe with panel prep automotive cloths from Halfords )


2 spray primer in light mist coats ( sometimes between layers I blast with hair dryer on warm setting)


3 Masking off areas tamiya tape only de-tac on trousers or between finger n thumb apply to model


4 Spray model air straight from bottle no thinners! Flowing stuff or anything just paint!


5 Peel away tape tentatively and gently remember ( how you'd treat a lady )


6 Apply a gloss coat (for me mainly Future or a vallejo gloss/matte)


7 Apply decals


8 Gloss coat to seal decals


9 Washes etc


10 Matte/Gloss coat if required.


I've never waited a month a week two days or 24hrs from primer stage to painting stage in fact numerous times I've gone from step 1-10 in a matter of hours a lot less than 24


Hope this guidance helps with vallejo.............


Just like to add I cannot say the same of tamiya or humbrol acrylic paints as I've yet to tame these beasties but their work in progress and I'm getting there;) ;) ;)


Anyways good luck everyone. :smiling3: :smiling3:
 

yak face

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Personally I always use Halfords aerosol primer Dave , mainly because it shows up anything that needs sorting before final painting and it gives a uniform finish over all the different surfaces (bare plastic , filler, sanded plastic etc.) Ive never really given the adhesion of the top coat much thought , although when painting small parts by brush sometimes I dont bother priming and the vallejo acrylics dont seem to adhere very well , being very partial to rubbing off ,so maybe it does help? If I were you , I'd stick to the halfords rattle can and hopefully you will now be able to do this indoors with the aid of your new extractor , if not maybe decant some and use the airbrush? cheers tony
 
D

dubster72

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I think surface adhesion is perhaps an important difference between the 2 most popular types of modelling paint (notice my diplomatic language there!)


The type that uses white spirit or cellulose thinners are chemically "hot", and so bond to the plastic at a molecular level.


The " water-based " type sit on the surface of the plastic, creating their bond by shrinking as they cure. So using a primer becomes much more important as a first stage.


I think if I used these types of paints regularly, I'd prime all of the smaller parts whilst still on the sprues as soon as I received it. Then by the time I got round to building the kit, the primer would be rock solid & therefore the colour coat would mean its less likely to rub off.
 
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CharleyGnarlyP290

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dubster72 said, "I think if I used these types of paints regularly, I'd prime all of the smaller parts whilst still on the sprues as soon as I received it. Then by the time I got round to building the kit, the primer would be rock solid & therefore the colour coat would mean its less likely to rub off."


I think that is a great idea. Having a primed part seems a bit easier to paint uniformly for me, but I usually only prime the primary parts once assembled, leaving the smaller parts (i.e., tools, tires, kit supplied stowage, etc.,) for later, bare-plastic painting with a brush, and sometimes airbrush.
 

Gern

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You got a point there Patrick. I'll give that a go with the smaller bits; but I think I'll stick to making up the large assemblies (you see what I did there!) before priming though as I'm not keen on getting paint on joining surfaces for obvious reasons.
 
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Dave1973

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Today has seen me change teams!


I bought vallejo grey primer quite a while back, and i struggled, ended up finding the product was old and stored badly, (it had froze at some point!)


So for a time i resorted to spraying everything with rattlecan primer.


Although its a good primer, the ability to spray small areas is a lot harder, and it stinks!! But theyre the only downsides in all honesty.


Then i got a few Vallejo model air kits, and one came with a 17ml bottle of model air grey primer. I tried it, and it was way better, and i had full control of where i wanted it to go. So thats been my primer for the last few weeks, and no issues to speak of, apart from cure time, and you cant speed it up, or it screws it!


But then this morning i got my delivery of stynylres from badger, grey, black and white.


I tried them on one of my tester models I use to try things, and i am way way sold on it!


Light coats cover and adhere really well, and best of all, ten minutes after ive sprayed, its dry!! I use grey as an all over primer, then light coats pf black for shading and white for highlights. Model air over the top works brilliantly, allowing the primer base to help with preshading!


So im sold on this badger stuff! Yeah its a bit more expensive than vallejo, (60ml vallejo is £7 whereas stynylres same size is £10, however i got three 60ml bottles for £23!) but the ability to continue in such a short period of time is a big bonus!
 
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\ said:
Today has seen me change teams!
I bought vallejo grey primer quite a while back, and i struggled, ended up finding the product was old and stored badly, (it had froze at some point!)


So for a time i resorted to spraying everything with rattlecan primer.


Although its a good primer, the ability to spray small areas is a lot harder, and it stinks!! But theyre the only downsides in all honesty.


Then i got a few Vallejo model air kits, and one came with a 17ml bottle of model air grey primer. I tried it, and it was way better, and i had full control of where i wanted it to go. So thats been my primer for the last few weeks, and no issues to speak of, apart from cure time, and you cant speed it up, or it screws it!


But then this morning i got my delivery of stynylres from badger, grey, black and white.


I tried them on one of my tester models I use to try things, and i am way way sold on it!


Light coats cover and adhere really well, and best of all, ten minutes after ive sprayed, its dry!! I use grey as an all over primer, then light coats pf black for shading and white for highlights. Model air over the top works brilliantly, allowing the primer base to help with preshading!


So im sold on this badger stuff! Yeah its a bit more expensive than vallejo, (60ml vallejo is £7 whereas stynylres same size is £10, however i got three 60ml bottles for £23!) but the ability to continue in such a short period of time is a big bonus!
I thought at first you were going to tell us that you've gone back to enamels!!!


Aaaaaaarrrrgggghhh........shock horror! :eek::eek::eek: :P :smiling3:
 
S

Stevekir

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\ said:
Hi folks. I need some help here.
I normally use Halfords primer which gives an excellent bond so my paint doesn't fall off every time I look at it. I have to use that outdoors obviously so with winter coming I thought I'd try Vallejo Surface Primer which I can spray indoors.


Sprayed a couple of parts, left for a few hours then sprayed with Vallejo paint. I left it overnight and tried to mask it for more painting using Tamiya tape. The tape touched the part in the wrong place so I lifted it to place it correctly and it took off the Vallejo paint and primer right down to the bare plastic.


I could maybe understand if I'd burnished the tape down, but it had barely touched the surface. What am I doing wrong, 'cos I've read that Vallejo primer is usually pretty good?
The only acrylic prime that I use is Vallejo's Grey Polyurethane Primer. An example of the grey is in a medium sized bottle numbered 73.601. I have never had any problem. As someone said, I think your difficulty is somewhere else, probably in the preparation of the plastic part. I wash all mine thoroughly in hot soapy water, rinse thoroughly and dry with a lint-free cloth, and cover from dust until primed. I dilute the primer very slightly, about 2% with Vallejo Air thinner. I use a 4mm nozzle. I sometimes use micromesh gently on the primer to remove any slight lumps. I don't much use Tamiya masking tape straight on to primer because with all my models I paint the background camouflage all over before masking with the second colour. I can over-coat using an airbrush with Vallejo Model Air acrylic about 8 to 12 hours after depending on room temperature, sometimes only one coat. I have never had it peeling off, not even from the usual very shiny surface of most modelling parts.


Have you tried another type of plastic part? Could the actual plastic type in your test be the cause? Tyr experimenting more.
 

Gern

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That's the same one I used Steve. I suspect I just didn't leave it long enough to cure. I'm used to being able to mask and spray over both Halfords primer and Vallejo paints (if painted over Halfords primer) after about an hour.


I've not given up as I'd like to have a primer option for my A/B - those Halford cans work really well but they're wasteful on small parts and, of course, the spray pattern is huge so I have to work outside.


I'll post something saying how I get on in due course.
 
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