Vallejo washes and panel lines

[Valeron]

Vallejo washes are the only ones I've ever since I started modelling last year.

I guess I went with Vallejo because I brush paint exclusively with Vallejo paints.

I always use them on top of a coat or two of gloss varnish and let this cure overnight.

I really struggle using them on pin washes and especially panel lines. When I watch videos online showing this technique they talk of the wash flowing into the panel lines with minimal clean up afterwards. For me, there is no flow at all and I need the paint the whole panel line with the wash and they do a huge and difficult clean up afterwards.

Does anyone have any experience and comments on using Vallejo washes?

Mike

 

[Waspie]

Vallejo washes are the only ones I've ever since I started modelling last year.

I guess I went with Vallejo because I brush paint exclusively with Vallejo paints.

I always use them on top of a coat or two of gloss varnish and let this cure overnight.

I really struggle using them on pin washes and especially panel lines. When I watch videos online showing this technique they talk of the wash flowing into the panel lines with minimal clean up afterwards. For me, there is no flow at all and I need the paint the whole panel line with the wash and they do a huge and difficult clean up afterwards.

Does anyone have any experience and comments on using Vallejo washes?

Mike

Very similar to you Mike. Never had that 'capillary' effect work for me.

I'd be interested to hear any responses!!

 

[Andy the Sheep]

Never used Vallejo washes but the missing/unsatisfactory capillary effect happens to me too, also with other brands and with home made enamel washes; I guess it depends on the inadequate thinning of the wash and/or the not so smooth underlying gloss coat. Every time is a try and error process until it flows as desired.

 

[BarryW]

You would be better off using enamel washes like AK interactive or MiG as pin washes. First apply a gloss coat to help them ‘run’ then when cured apply the wash to the panel lines with a long thin brush. Wait 10 to 20 minutes and wipe of the surplus with a cotton bud which can be dry. If the wash is a bit stubborn then dampen the cotton bud slightly with enamel thinner.

 

[Jim R]

There are many water based washes out there and I'm sure some get on with them. However they tend to dry very quickly and consequently clean up is awkward.
Barry mentioned enamels which flow better and stay "wet" for much longer so as he says , clean up is easy. Oils also work well, they behave in a similar way to enamels. Just dilute them with artists white spirit or W&N Sansodor and make your own washes.

 

[Ancientmariner]

What varnish are you using?
I had been using Vallejo gloss varnish and the finish is more of a dull satin which has a huge impact on how the wash does or as the case was for me does not run.
I changed to a Mr Colour GX clear super smooth gloss varnish and it runs over this a treat, though I also use enamel and find this flows better.

 

[JR]

I've tried those as well, never the same as people on U tube with their tutorials . Come to the conclusion its all to do with the varnish coat.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Which ones are you using? There are two types, model wash and game colour wash.

I use the game colour washes a lot on my little blokes. To be honest, I do not think they are really formulated for this type of use. I do occasionally use them for this purpose, but if I do I apply them over gloss varnish (usually Johnson’s Klear) and add both drying retarder, to help clean up, and flow aid to enhance flow characteristics. I also dilute them as I feel they are quite strong coloured.

I am not as used to model wash, only having a dark grey which I use for hand lining out different areas of colour to make them stand out from each other. If I did use this type though I would still add retarder and flow aid, though it does seem a bit more fluid when in use.

 

[Valeron]

What varnish are you using?
I had been using Vallejo gloss varnish and the finish is more of a dull satin which has a huge impact on how the wash does or as the case was for me does not run.
I changed to a Mr Colour GX clear super smooth gloss varnish and it runs over this a treat, though I also use enamel and find this flows better.

I don't have an Airbrush so either brush paint the Vallejo gloss varnish or mostly use this rattle can of varnish I bought when I started this hobby last year. Its nearly run out so I could change to something else as long as it comes in a rattle can.

I don't know how I came across this and just noticed it doesn't even mention plastic

 

[Valeron]

Which ones are you using? There are two types, model wash and game colour wash.

I use the game colour washes a lot on my little blokes. To be honest, I do not think they are really formulated for this type of use. I do occasionally use them for this purpose, but if I do I apply them over gloss varnish (usually Johnson’s Klear) and add both drying retarder, to help clean up, and flow aid to enhance flow characteristics. I also dilute them as I feel they are quite strong coloured.

I am not as used to model wash, only having a dark grey which I use for hand lining out different areas of colour to make them stand out from each other. If I did use this type though I would still add retarder and flow aid, though it does seem a bit more fluid when in use.

I use the model wash but neat with nothing added. I do have some retarder.

 

[Tim Marlow]

I would dilute some one to one with water and try a drop or two of flow aid and a drop of retarder to see how it goes. Work on a short area at a time and clean up as you go along.

 

[rtfoe]

Guys...for the capillary action to work I just soak the surface with water and as it starts to dry off the engraved lines will still be moist for the wash to flow in it. Obviously if its gloss coated, hold the kit up and work on the vertical panel lines from the top and let gravity do the rest.

Cheers,
Wabble

 

[Tim Marlow]

Guys...for the capillary action to work I just soak the surface with water and as it starts to dry off the engraved lines will still be moist for the wash to flow in it. Obviously if its gloss coated, hold the kit up and work on the vertical panel lines from the top and let gravity do the rest.

Cheers,
Wabble

Forgot this…..best way to stop coffee staining of the wash. Stops it drying with tide marks….

 

[Valeron]

Guys...for the capillary action to work I just soak the surface with water and as it starts to dry off the engraved lines will still be moist for the wash to flow in it. Obviously if its gloss coated, hold the kit up and work on the vertical panel lines from the top and let gravity do the rest.

Cheers,
Wabble

I'm going to give this go. And also never thought of using gravity to assist the flow.

 

[Andy the Sheep]

I did, but sometimes washes act according to quantum physics laws...

 

[rtfoe]

You know when I first came to hear about the word wash in plastic modeling I wondered what kind of detergent was needed or if Humbrol carried such an item. Now its quantum physics?

Cheers,
Wabble