When to use Kleer/ Future?

T

trevwoody

Guest
I'm about ready to work on my cockpit canopy and have read up on dipping the canopy into Future, to get the shine. However, I've not seen anyone detail when this happens. Do you paint the frame colours first, remove the mask tape, dip it then. Or is it dip, then paint. How about final coat varnish too? Mask canopy again and then add on.

Thanks for your advice.

:thinking:
 
B

Bunkerbarge

Guest
I think it's far to say that, as with most things there is no hard and fast rule. It is more a case of thinking through what you want to acheive with the particular model you are making.

For instance if you were making a model of a modern sports aircraft with a highly polished painted surface you may wantto dip the canopy with the painted frame in one go. If however you are making a WWII fighter and the frame is a matt finish then you would probably be better dipping the canopy then masking and painting the frame afterwards.

There are also the techniques such as using pre-painted tapes for framework which can be put over the dipped canopy but there again you mau want to seal the tape as well!!!

Let us know what you are making but also have a think about how you would expect to do it to achieve the result that you are after.

At the end of the day individual models may require individual techniques.
 
T

trevwoody

Guest
It's a Monogram Me 262, so I think I'll go for the canopy dip followed by masking and painting. If it doesn't look right, I'll attempt something different for my Tamiya 262.

Thanks for your advice.

:respect1:
 
Last edited:

wonwinglo

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Barry
Trevwoody,one of the main reasons for the dip is to replicate the optically correct look that all aircraft canopies have,the plastic has supplied looks just that,like plastic,by dipping both sides the right effect is achieved as it pulls together the optical effect due to the refraction of light on the clear plastic.

Personally I do the dip first,then cut pre-painted masking tape strips for the framework,then seal these by running a bead of Klear around the joins,this also stops the framework from drying up and coming away.

But as Richard says you may wish to experiment and do things differently,the best way is to get a couple of old paint hack models,use these to do your vital experiments on,that way you can decide which technique is best suited to yourself.

Always be flexible in your approach to modelling,and above all be prepared for change if you find a better method.
 
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