* with a Scottish accent "Isn't that Martinis?"I used Humbrols for many years, and found I disagreed with James Bond. Humbrols are best stirred, not shaken
It keeps the lid cleaner and so enables you to continue to close the pot to keep out air.
A very good point, thank you. As I have little experience with an AB and lots with a brush this is especially relevant for me.
I used Humbrols for many years, and found I disagreed with James Bond. Humbrols are best stirred, not shaken
It keeps the lid cleaner and so enables you to continue to close the pot to keep out air.
The drying times for enamels, particularly thinned with cellulose thinners, are not as long as most imagine anyway.A very good point.
And stirred for a long time, all enamels, not just Humbrol!
One of the reasons I have continued to use enamels is because I find them the easiest. They are the least sensitive to thinning ratios or thinners. I use bog standard white spirits or cellulose thinners. I usually thin in the paint cup and just count the drops of thinner to paint at about 50/50 and adjust from there. In a larger cup I just squirt in some thinners, squirt in some paint, no counting involved, and adjust that until it looks right. Paints, even within the same brand, vary and it's just one of those things you have to learn by experience. There is never any need for retardants, flow enhancers or any of the other gubbins that some acrylics require (which begs the question why are they not in the formulation you buy?) Enamels are easy to clean up. They are so easy that I often complete two or three models before I feel the need to disassemble an airbrush and give it a really good clean, mostly I just flush them through.
The main disadvantage of enamels is the smell, more of the thinners than the paints themselves, and obviously for some that can be a deal breaker. I'm lucky to have my own area and a good extractor but not everyone has that luxury. At least the odour(s) let you know something is there. Something is there with acrylics too, you just can't smell it.
Drying time? Who cares? If you are in a rush to paint a model, or do anything else to it, you're probably in the wrong hobby. This was conspicuously evidenced by my early efforts as a ten year old. I've always said that patience is the most important tool in the toolbox and I definitely didn't have it then
And stirred for a long time, all enamels, not just Humbrol!
Too true, though for small amounts I always used to lift out the pigment with a small spatula and mix in the wet bit on a palette until I was happy.
One of the reasons I have continued to use enamels is because I find them the easiest. They are the least sensitive to thinning ratios or thinners. I use bog standard white spirits or cellulose thinners. I usually thin in the paint cup and just count the drops of thinner to paint at about 50/50 and adjust from there. In a larger cup I just squirt in some thinners, squirt in some paint, no counting involved, and adjust that until it looks right. Paints, even within the same brand, vary and it's just one of those things you have to learn by experience. There is never any need for retardants, flow enhancers or any of the other gubbins that some acrylics require (which begs the question why are they not in the formulation you buy?) Enamels are easy to clean up. They are so easy that I often complete two or three models before I feel the need to disassemble an airbrush and give it a really good clean, mostly I just flush them through.
Even the same colour can be inconsistent between batches. I have two pots of Humbrols coal black 85. One is fantastic, never separates, covers evenly with great density , the other separates as you look at it, is grainy, no coverage, leaves tram lines etc….
However, there are some things you can do with Enamels that cannot be done with acrylics or lacquers. They are superb for dry brushing and stippling. You can feather edges much more easily because once touch dry a brush dampened with thinners can reactivate the paint and allow controlled removal, and they can be dry blended the same way, enabling decent gradients from light to dark to be easily achieved. I also believe they are a tougher finish once completely cured.
The main disadvantage of enamels is the smell, more of the thinners than the paints themselves, and obviously for some that can be a deal breaker. I'm lucky to have my own area and a good extractor but not everyone has that luxury. At least the odour(s) let you know something is there. Something is there with acrylics too, you just can't smell it.
Balanced against this is the smell (though using Sansodor as a thinner can reduce this considerably) ease of use, and drying time. The worst offender is Humbrols own thinner, it is exceptionally pungent and best replaced with a low odour alternative. The thinner is undeniably toxic and certaonly requires proper PPE when sprayed. Dropper bottles (used for most acrylics) are far superior and the ability to layer or modify paint tone quickly enhances workflow immeasurably. This is usually an issue when brush, rather than spray, painting, so for figure painting in particular enamels have become less useful to me personally. Painting eyes in particular is very hard with enamels, simply due to the properties that are useful in other areas. What takes me minutes with acrylics would takes days (mostly drying time) with enamels.
Drying time? Who cares? If you are in a rush to paint a model, or do anything else to it, you're probably in the wrong hobby. This was conspicuously evidenced by my early efforts as a ten year old. I've always said that patience is the most important tool in the toolbox and I definitely didn't have it then
The additives for acrylics are often derided, but used properly are actually part of the system flexibility. Acrylics can be easily adapted to your preferred painting style using additives, but only when you know what that is. Sprayed Enamels can be touch dry really quickly if something like Phoenix precision quick air drying thinners is used. No paint is perfect from the pot, unless it is used for one purpose only…..those that are excellent for spraying out of the box are probably not much use for brush painting…..
Hear, hear ...
Very true. At the end of it all a model is judged by the result, and in all honesty it's probably only us modellers who care at all how it got there. And some may not give a hoot about that either. probably only the more serious or passionate to be honest, which a lot here seem to be. But as with any hobby, interest, pastime, skill or whatever it's the time that counts isn't it?
Yes Tim.
Here is the way I started with airbrush. It's got three different brushes so you can find out what you prefer. I have since replaced the airbrush with an Iwata but I used the cheap one for a year or two befroe doing so, and it was like night and day, but at least I was well practiced before buying a more expensive brush. I still use the compressor and I also have one with a small tank. Good luck with your decision.
Same here Murfie. Got a lot of bits then Airbrush. Just a few then brush. Also cockpit airbrush the main colour over all then pick out the bits with a brush.
I'll probably go this route, if I get an AB at all. I find a small brush so much better for small details.
I’d say the vast majority of airbrush users go down this route as well Dale, so you’ll be in good company.
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