scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Doug,
Just had a catch up, some very nice work going on.
Just had a catch up, some very nice work going on.
Another First - 1/35 CH2 TES.
- Thread starter Waspie
- Start date
A metal primer (or a primer that'll do plastic & metal) helps on PE but I wouldn't worry too much if you haven't got any. It might be a bit more susceptible to chipping off but I wouldn't call it a deal breaker.
Agreed ref etch. Pretty much any primer will work. It’s not as if you are going to handle the model a lot once it’s painted. As to painting, concentrate on getting the base coat down, then worry about washes etc. Usually the order is pin wash, dry brush, then special effects such as chips and splashes.
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- Apr 28, 2018
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- Jakko
That’s very good advice there.
My advice would be to not overcomplicate things for yourself. Start simple rather than jumping in at the deep end: start by just painting the whole model one colour. You can always go over that with another colour for camouflage, special effects, or whatever else you want to try, but by taking it one step at a time you’ll learn the basics better than by trying to go all the way immediately.
Just use a primer that works on metal, which are most modelling primers and all primers sold for touching up cars.
Scratchbuilder
SMF Supporter
Waspie,
Start with a rattle can of car grey primer (Azon car primer. Holts/Carplan), do not worry about brass or resin this primer will cover it all. Then you can move onto your colour base coat NATO Green and clear coat ready for decals and weathering.
That is it in its basic form, you can then use the you tube videos to enhance your work. Take a look at scale model shed and the AVRE Centurion. As a starter I would not rush out and buy up everything they (you tubers) use, but use them as a guide for you to develop your own style.
My NATO Green for example - here I got all of the Green colours that I do not use and threw them into a pot, from there I added grey or yellow untill I was near to the colour I wanted. The later weathering and wash brought the colour down to near enough NATO Green in the photographs. And the same with my desert colours... Look at what others have done and then develop your own.
HTH
Mike.
Start with a rattle can of car grey primer (Azon car primer. Holts/Carplan), do not worry about brass or resin this primer will cover it all. Then you can move onto your colour base coat NATO Green and clear coat ready for decals and weathering.
That is it in its basic form, you can then use the you tube videos to enhance your work. Take a look at scale model shed and the AVRE Centurion. As a starter I would not rush out and buy up everything they (you tubers) use, but use them as a guide for you to develop your own style.
My NATO Green for example - here I got all of the Green colours that I do not use and threw them into a pot, from there I added grey or yellow untill I was near to the colour I wanted. The later weathering and wash brought the colour down to near enough NATO Green in the photographs. And the same with my desert colours... Look at what others have done and then develop your own.
HTH
Mike.
Waspie
SMF Supporter
Thanks Mike, certainly less complicated than watching YT! I'll use the primer I have and see how it turns out!! (Vallejo Grey Polyurethane Primer). It worked on the Sea King so we'll see!!)
Spent a short time dry fitting side armour and attaching some odd bibs and bobs. Also removed the road wheels and masked off the stubs they sit on to avoid painting over them and finding they are difficult to fit post painting.
Main gun barrel was assembled and fitted, so it looked like a tank - finally.
GPMG was still an annoyance and then at some stage the rubber ammo belt was damaged so I made the decision to remove the GPMG itself and the damaged ammo belt. Many of the armour that transits Dorset don't have their GMPG's fitted. (Something to do with the county police). Which I found strange - they can drive around with a 120mm gun sticking out the front, but a 7.62mm machine gun is a no - no!!! I know - I know it's obvious, I still found it strange.
I still have some of the anti RPG cages to fit, but that will be after water cans and petrol cans are installed after the main paint goes on.
One of the silly jobs I ended up doing was adjusting one of the tow cables. I measured it twice when I made it up but one of them still ended up too long and didn't sit right. Cured that by coating the end with CA, allowing to dry fully, then removing about one mm from that section. Then it was simply a case of super glueing the cable back to the end shackle. Job done.
You can probably see the snapped ammo belt!! (B*****)
PE on the hull will just have to look bad, (long strip.) - I'll have to put that down to learning!!!!
That's it for today. If I get time I may start on the priming tomorrow!! (SWIMBO permitting).
Spent a short time dry fitting side armour and attaching some odd bibs and bobs. Also removed the road wheels and masked off the stubs they sit on to avoid painting over them and finding they are difficult to fit post painting.
Main gun barrel was assembled and fitted, so it looked like a tank - finally.
GPMG was still an annoyance and then at some stage the rubber ammo belt was damaged so I made the decision to remove the GPMG itself and the damaged ammo belt. Many of the armour that transits Dorset don't have their GMPG's fitted. (Something to do with the county police). Which I found strange - they can drive around with a 120mm gun sticking out the front, but a 7.62mm machine gun is a no - no!!! I know - I know it's obvious, I still found it strange.
I still have some of the anti RPG cages to fit, but that will be after water cans and petrol cans are installed after the main paint goes on.
One of the silly jobs I ended up doing was adjusting one of the tow cables. I measured it twice when I made it up but one of them still ended up too long and didn't sit right. Cured that by coating the end with CA, allowing to dry fully, then removing about one mm from that section. Then it was simply a case of super glueing the cable back to the end shackle. Job done.
You can probably see the snapped ammo belt!! (B*****)
PE on the hull will just have to look bad, (long strip.) - I'll have to put that down to learning!!!!
That's it for today. If I get time I may start on the priming tomorrow!! (SWIMBO permitting).
Scratchbuilder
SMF Supporter
The Vallejo primer is as good as any.
I replaced my ammo belt with one made from paper strip and thin sprue that had been stretched and cut to size. Or you could c/a a thin strip of paper to the underside of one half and once dry do the same with the other half and that should hold it. Why they choose to provide unrealistic items from rubber beat me.
I replaced my ammo belt with one made from paper strip and thin sprue that had been stretched and cut to size. Or you could c/a a thin strip of paper to the underside of one half and once dry do the same with the other half and that should hold it. Why they choose to provide unrealistic items from rubber beat me.
Waspie
SMF Supporter
It was just as easy to remove the GPMG and the adjoining belt!! (Kept me happy getting shot of the machine gun). As I said - they don't fit them when pootling between the hangars/training areas round Bovington anyway!! It's not as if it's going to be placed in a realistic setting.
Waspie
SMF Supporter
B*gg*r!!!!
I was so keen to get the primer on I forgot to mask off the commanders windows!!!! As a result I have about 7 or eight transparent bits that are primed.
Is there a cheat or any way to remove the primer before recommencing!!!
I did read somewhere, coat with IPA and leave for a few minutes before trying to remove the paint - any truth?
No pics as I was pretty annoyed. On the plus side I did manage to prime the hull and turret, only the side armour to go!!
Must learn to slow down!!
I was so keen to get the primer on I forgot to mask off the commanders windows!!!! As a result I have about 7 or eight transparent bits that are primed.Is there a cheat or any way to remove the primer before recommencing!!!
I did read somewhere, coat with IPA and leave for a few minutes before trying to remove the paint - any truth?
No pics as I was pretty annoyed. On the plus side I did manage to prime the hull and turret, only the side armour to go!!
Must learn to slow down!!
Waspie
SMF Supporter
Awesome. I have my Sunday job!! (SWIMBO permitting),
.
Oh do tell Pete
Waspie
SMF Supporter
I use that too, like I said above Tim, my Sunday job. Now confirmed!!
Thanks Pete, That is indeed the airbrush cleaner I use.
Thanks one and all. I hopefully won't do that mistake again. Once it's cleaned off I guess liquid mask be the order of the day. OR!! I may just wrap some masking tape around the assembly. See how the mood takes me. (Always assuming I manage to clear my c*ck up without messing anything else on the way!!)
Waspie
SMF Supporter
Just been informed by higher authority I have a more important Sunday job!!
SWIMBO has managed to scratch the bath, (deeply), so Mr fixit, (aka - me), will be effecting a repair before anything. Good job I happen to have a repair kit handy. (Comes of having to repair the bath in my last place after she dropped a glass shelf and made a hole in it!!) Either way I'll be spraying something tomorrow. The bath and hopefully the Chally!!
SWIMBO has managed to scratch the bath, (deeply), so Mr fixit, (aka - me), will be effecting a repair before anything. Good job I happen to have a repair kit handy. (Comes of having to repair the bath in my last place after she dropped a glass shelf and made a hole in it!!) Either way I'll be spraying something tomorrow. The bath and hopefully the Chally!!
My bad….yes, that’s exactly what I meant. Vallejo airbrush cleaner. It’s far better for jobs like that than it is for cleaning airbrushes
Scratchbuilder
SMF Supporter
I would be tempted to get rid of the bath and just have the shower.... or you could always.......
Scratchbuilder
SMF Supporter
The reason they are not allowed to carry arms is that decades ago the rookies from a certain regiment went through one of the villages and decided to get rid of all their unused blank ammo which included thunderflashes, drove the villagers under their beds and gave the local coppers red faces of rage...... I sem to remember our next training area was Dartmoor...