Acrylic Frustrations... Why the Additives? Update!

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CharleyGnarlyP290

Guest
I hope it is okay to start a new thread pertaining to this situation, but I will link this to the original.


The original question and related comments can be read here: http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/acrylic-frustrations-why-the-additives.32945/


This afternoon, I decided to have another go at it with the Vallejo Model Air. This time I used the next color for my camo scheme on my Bf109. This bottle, Vallejo Model Air RLM75, is new and unused from the same set as the previously offending paint, RLM76. Same airbrush: Badger Patriot 105.


First, I popped the top off the bottle and dropped in a stainless steel nut to aid mixing (not done until half-way through the bottle of RLM76). I then shook the living daylights out of it.


Next, I sparked up the airbrush rig, and set it at 16 psi, per usual. I squirted a few drops of Vallejo cleaner into the cup to flush it out and lube the internals up a bit like I usually do.


When I dropped the paint in the cup this time a did it a bit different. Before, I would give the bottle a mighty squeeze so the paint came out in more of a stream than drops. Then I would add a bit of thinner and one or two drops of flow enhancer. Mix it all up with my trusty mixing brush and begin the spray job.


This time I did it thusly: ten drops of paint. That's it. No additives. No thinner. No nothing. Gave it a quick test on my blotter, and off I went.


For the test, I sprayed all of the upper control surfaces on my Revell 1/32 Bf109. I gave everything a first coat, then once I had done that I gave it another pass to finish it off. About halfway through the second pass I had to add five more drops of paint to complete the job. I didn't have to wipe down the tip, there were no stutters, no splatters, only smooth flowing paint. Perfect finish.


After I was done, I dropped some cleaner in and flushed the airbrush out, used a napkin to wipe the color cup out really well, and flushed cleaner through a couple more times. Then I added cleaner yet again, and back flushed it. (An interesting note on back flushing: I have read some people's remarks that one should never back flush an airbrush. Badger, however, actually recommends back flushing during the cleaning process). In doing this, I noted that there was a bit of cloudiness to the cleaner in the cup after the back flush. I then sprayed it through, clearing the cup. I repeated this until the cleaner was clean after back flushing. It only took a few times, but the airbrush is spotless.


So, here is what I am thinking caused my problems:


A. Possible insufficient mixing of the paint before using it for the first time.


B. Squeezing the the paint into the cup in a stream, instead of drops, especially on an older bottle of paint. This could have allowed partially congealed paint to enter the paint cup, creating a "paint booger," if you will.


C. Lack of proper cleaning between sessions.


Here are my solutions:


A. Upon opening the bottle for the first time, add a stainless steel nut to aid mixing, and mix like a maniac.


B. Watch carefully as I drop (not stream) the paint in the cup, looking for the aforementioned "paint boogers."


C. Clean the airbrush thoroughly, as described above, to ensure no paint is left in the internals of the airbrush.


I really think that doing all of this will eliminate, or at least reduce the need for additives to the paint.


I will be able to test more over the next couple of days, and I will update this thread with what happens.


p.s. Sorry this is so long, but I think this is concise enough that it may be of help to someone in the future.
 

john i am

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\ said:
I hope it is okay to start a new thread pertaining to this situation, but I will link this to the original.
The original question and related comments can be read here: http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/acrylic-frustrations-why-the-additives.32945/


This afternoon, I decided to have another go at it with the Vallejo Model Air. This time I used the next color for my camo scheme on my Bf109. This bottle, Vallejo Model Air RLM75, is new and unused from the same set as the previously offending paint, RLM76. Same airbrush: Badger Patriot 105.


First, I popped the top off the bottle and dropped in a stainless steel nut to aid mixing (not done until half-way through the bottle of RLM76). I then shook the living daylights out of it.


Next, I sparked up the airbrush rig, and set it at 16 psi, per usual. I squirted a few drops of Vallejo cleaner into the cup to flush it out and lube the internals up a bit like I usually do.


When I dropped the paint in the cup this time a did it a bit different. Before, I would give the bottle a mighty squeeze so the paint came out in more of a stream than drops. Then I would add a bit of thinner and one or two drops of flow enhancer. Mix it all up with my trusty mixing brush and begin the spray job.


This time I did it thusly: ten drops of paint. That's it. No additives. No thinner. No nothing. Gave it a quick test on my blotter, and off I went.


For the test, I sprayed all of the upper control surfaces on my Revell 1/32 Bf109. I gave everything a first coat, then once I had done that I gave it another pass to finish it off. About halfway through the second pass I had to add five more drops of paint to complete the job. I didn't have to wipe down the tip, there were no stutters, no splatters, only smooth flowing paint. Perfect finish.


After I was done, I dropped some cleaner in and flushed the airbrush out, used a napkin to wipe the color cup out really well, and flushed cleaner through a couple more times. Then I added cleaner yet again, and back flushed it. (An interesting note on back flushing: I have read some people's remarks that one should never back flush an airbrush. Badger, however, actually recommends back flushing during the cleaning process). In doing this, I noted that there was a bit of cloudiness to the cleaner in the cup after the back flush. I then sprayed it through, clearing the cup. I repeated this until the cleaner was clean after back flushing. It only took a few times, but the airbrush is spotless.


So, here is what I am thinking caused my problems:


A. Possible insufficient mixing of the paint before using it for the first time.


B. Squeezing the the paint into the cup in a stream, instead of drops, especially on an older bottle of paint. This could have allowed partially congealed paint to enter the paint cup, creating a "paint booger," if you will.


C. Lack of proper cleaning between sessions.


Here are my solutions:


A. Upon opening the bottle for the first time, add a stainless steel nut to aid mixing, and mix like a maniac.


B. Watch carefully as I drop (not stream) the paint in the cup, looking for the aforementioned "paint boogers."


C. Clean the airbrush thoroughly, as described above, to ensure no paint is left in the internals of the airbrush.


I really think that doing all of this will eliminate, or at least reduce the need for additives to the paint.


I will be able to test more over the next couple of days, and I will update this thread with what happens.


p.s. Sorry this is so long, but I think this is concise enough that it may be of help to someone in the future.
Great info Brett for future ref:


Regards to "back flushing" It's a practice I always use myself but frowned on by some as it can apparently damage seals within the airbrush. No adverse effects here though just a clean fully operational airbrush.


No agitators added to any of my vallejo model air bottles I just give em a good shaking before use and they work fine for me sprayed at 20 psi :smiling3:
 
D

dubster72

Guest
Wise words for all you Vallejo users out there! If I might add a few points ...


Regularly remove the nipple from dropper bottles & clean, because paint can congeal within them, leading to clumps which then end up in your AB.


Even with Model Air, add some thinners to each bottle when it becomes ¼ full. No seal is airtight no matter how tightly you screw the lid on & paint will thicken as its volume reduces.


Finally, save wear & tear on your wrists .... make a stirrer! Cost £1 & easy to use


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stona

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Steve
I've been back flushing my oldest airbrush, and removing the needle through the back, both frowned upon by some, for at least twenty years. I've only ever replaced the odd nozzle (which has split) and needle (usually because I've done something stupid to bend it beyond repair). It still works as well as the day I bought it! Just saying.


Cheers


Steve
 

john i am

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john
\ said:
Wise words for all you Vallejo users out there! If I might add a few points ...
Regularly remove the nipple from dropper bottles & clean, because paint can congeal within them, leading to clumps which then end up in your AB.


Even with Model Air, add some thinners to each bottle when it becomes ¼ full. No seal is airtight no matter how tightly you screw the lid on & paint will thicken as its volume reduces.


Finally, save wear & tear on your wrists .... make a stirrer! Cost £1 & easy to use


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View attachment 140042


View attachment 140043
Some nice tips and tricks there Patrick which will be extremely helpful to many.


But I'd just like to point out I don't do any of the above.


Just a vigorous shake for about 20 seconds every time I pick up the bottle and a quick wipe before replacing the cap as prevention is better than a cure.


And if I'm honest my limp wrist doesn't really bother me ;)
 
C

CharleyGnarlyP290

Guest
Good stuff all.


As for the tip of the bottle, I also wipe it down good and use a Q-tip (cotton bud) to clean out the inside of the cap before I close it up after a session. Messy lids and bottle tips/paint jar mouths drive me insane. I have also started taking the tip out of the bottle and remove any stringy, clumpy bits.


And, Patrick, I like the stirrer. Nice job.
 
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