Airbrush cleaning problems....

[BarryW]

Help please!!

I left my airbrush (H&S 2in1 Silverline) in my sonic cleaner for 24 hours soaking in Medea airbrush cleaner and ran the sonic cleaner twice when I first put it in once several hours later and twice before removing it. I left the dismantled airbrush to dry all day on my workbench.

I have just taken a look at it expecting a nice clean airbrush and found the body and cup is what I can only call 'stained' I have tried wiping it in IPA without luck and have now got it soaking in soapy warm water. The mechanism sounded 'rough' as well so clearly it now need lubricating.

Any ideas what I did wrong and is there anything else I can do to restore it to condition?

Many thanks for any help you can give...

 

[tr1ckey66]

Hi Barry

I've found over the years that it's best to clean the AB after each use by flushing it with the appropriate solvent. I never leave paint within the AB to be removed by a 'deep clean' later on - it just doesn't work.

I'm not sure if you did the above or even what type of paint you're using (I'm assuming acrylics). I would try soaking in the appropriate solvent (IPA for acrylics), if this doesn't work try something stronger like cellulose thinners (a strong solvent for oil based paints but may strip that film away). Once this is done wash the brush thoroughly with soapy water then dry thoroughly dabbing with a lint free cloth or kitchen towel. Then, lube the moving parts and grease the needle with a barely-there film of silicone grease. Assemble and then you should have a factory fresh AB.

To reiterate though, it's always better to clean as you go, a sonic cleaner will not remove dried on stains. And I'd never leave an AB to soak for longer than a 45min 'shake' in the sonic cleaner.

I do hope you get it sorted Barry.

Cheers Paul

Ps. Just purchased the Tamiya 1/32 Mustang and I'm looking forward to seeing your version in RAF markings!

 

[Vaughan]

Barry

Did you in fact put the whole of your airbrush in the sonic cleaner. I was always advised to never put the main body/cup into a sonic cleaner only the components needle, nozzle, nozzle cap etc. You could try using some super lube as you said on the mechanism which should help but as far as the staining I'm not sure how to remove it. Good luck and I hope you sort things out.

Vaughan

 

[BarryW]

Yes, I do clean it between sessions but decided to do a 'deep clean' at the end of a project using the sonic cleaner.

I did indeed put the whole thing in the cleaner.

I have reassembled it and it seems to be working OK, at least I sprayed some Vallejo AB Cleaner through it without problems. I am aware that this has some 'lubricant' in it and thought that might help. I am not sure whether you can see what I mean on this photo....

The problem really now is cosmetic. The body of the AB is stained.

View attachment 42241

 

[BarryW]

Oh -Paul - what a great kit the Tamiya Mustang is, yes I will post pics but it might be a while!!!

 

[tr1ckey66]

Hi Barry

That looks very much like a stain that normally comes straight off with a quick rub of IPA. That is very weird.

I don't won't to sound patronising but you are using Isopropyl alcohol and not simply more AB cleaner? I'm sure you know that they're not the same stuff.

Failing that you could try some household or car chrome cleaner? Something like this, if it is just cosmetic?:

Carplan Chrome Wheel & Trim Polish, 5010373007716

Coming back to Vaughan's point, it is probably safest to only place nozzle, cap, needle in the sonic cleaner. I know that some also only remove needles from the front of the body (after removing the nozzle of course).

Personally, I have cleaned the entire brush in a sonic cleaner but have always completely dismantled it first and removed all the 'O' rings. I place the nozzle and nozzle crown in a smaller container filled with IPA and place this inside the sonic cleaner which is filled with weak washing detergent for the other larger parts. After a 45min 'shake' I remove everything, pad dry it with kitchen towel, lubricate the trigger mech with 'Super Lube' (I believe John sells it in the shop), and then lightly grease the shaft, but not the tip, of the needle with silicone grease. This is an incredibly small amount of grease that is put on and then wiped off. This gives a protective film to the needle shaft. Once this is done I replace the 'O' rings and assemble everything. I then shoot a drop of IPA through, then some clean water and it's done.

I do note that: inside the body of the AB parts are more prone to corrosion (adequate chrome plating does not extend into the body) I therefore always dry the inside with kitchen towel and then lube the mech. I wouldn't leave it to air-dry this allows time for the metal to oxidise.

I know others will have their own cleaning regime, and I'm not saying that this is only way (or even the right way!), but it has worked for me so far ( 15 years since I returned to the hobby).

The Mustang does indeed look like a cracking kit and will make a fabulous addition to my 'Face Off' series of aircraft ( a theme of aircraft versus aircraft. This Mustang will be pitted against the Hasegawa 190 D9). I'm going to build it as per the box art simply because I think it's an attractive scheme, also I'm really looking forward to the metal finish.

Hope you get the AB back to pristine condition soon.

All the best

Paul

 

[Gomer Pyle]

I have the same brush and the same thing happened to me. I cleaned it with mineral-spirits after spraying enamels and it produced the same miscolouration of the nickel-plating as with yours. I haven't been able to get it off and I'm not inclined to try cleaning it mechanically, it's just that none of all the household chemicals that we have in cupboard worked.

/Daniel

 

[BarryW]

Thanks Paul and Gomer. It seems to be discoloured by heat rather than anything else. It is proper IPA I used, 99% stuff. The good thing is that it is working fine so I did not do any lasting damage other than ruin the cosmetics.

 

[BarryW]

Thanks Paul and Gomer. It seems to be discoloured by heat rather than anything else. It is proper IPA I used, 99% stuff. The good thing is that it is working fine so I did not do any lasting damage other than ruin the cosmetics.