Order of painting, varnishing and weathering I use is as follows. But, first of all spray the model with a degreaser or wipe it with ipa to get rid of finger grease, release agent and sanding rubble.
1/ Primer - I ‘black base’ so I use a black primer (black basing is a method used to modulate colour to create a more realistic finish). As well as shading help this helps highlight flaws in the build such as seams that need more filling and sanding. I always make sure I have an even smooth all over black finish after dealing with the flaws and use a polishing stick to make sure it’s smooth.
2/ Spray the underside. This is usually the lighter colour. In doing so I work the inside of the panels more so they are lighter darkening towards the panel lines. Make sure this is not too neat and tidy or it can look like a quilt, you don’t want that.
3/ I use lacquer acrylics so they dry within minutes and even playing safe waiting 30 minutes is enough to enable you to mask over it. If you use water based acrylics then you have to leave it for 24 hours at least, ideally in an airing cupboard otherwise you risk paint pulling away with masking tape. Take similar care over primer too. There are different ways to mask borders and it’s a subject of its own. Incidentally there is no need to mask under the wings except in a few places that might get caught by overspray when spraying at angles. It is enough to spray down vertically to get your demarcation.
4/ Once masked spray the lighter top colour using the same method as the underside. The black basing might not be as effective, depending on how dark this colour is. In this case some ‘post shading’ will help. Mix a little white with the base colour and spray the inside of panels. Don’t worry if there is too much contrast, finish with a series of mist coats of the base colour to reduce the contrast to the level you want.
5/ Mask up for the next colour (depending on the type of camo of course) but make sure the paint is fully cured following the same rules mentioned.
6/ Repeat stage 4 with the darker top colour.
7/ if your paint is matt it might be helpful to spray a gloss coat before the next stage. If it provides a gloss finish as some do then a gloss coat is not necessary
8/ Apply
decals or paint the markings using paint masks. But, always, if you are painting markings, do that before applying
decals or masking material could pull away
decals.
9/ Do any remaining detail painting for instance navigation lights.
10/ Do a sealing gloss varnish coat and give it plenty of time to cure.
11/ do your panel line washes. Enamel work best.
12/ do your first matt or semi matt coat, depending on what sheen the final look needs
13/ do other weathering using pigments, oils or other materials as needed.
14/ do a final matt (or semi matt) coat.
15/ do final weathering, where a different sheen is needed such as oil and kerosene leaks also chipping and wear for which I use metal powders.
16/ Final fitting and final touches as needed.
That’s is my method but, of course, there are lots of other techniques you could use. There is no right or wrong in this.
The materials I use are as follows:
. Primers, paints and varnishes used through the
airbrush - MRP lacquers.
. Handbrushing fine detail over the lacquers, Vallejo
Model Colour’s water based acrylics.
. Washes AKI or MIG enamel washes.
. Pigments, AKI or MIG
. Metal Powders (used for most airbrushing and chipping/wear) Uschi Metal Powders.
. Cement, Mr Cement S mainly plus Mr Cement deluxe for when a slower drying cement is needed.
. Gator Grip for transparencies
. thin, medium and thick ca, no specific brands.
I hope that helps.