Dave Ward's Revell/ICM 1/48 Beech C-45F Expeditor

[Dave Ward]

Seams attended to, and I've just primed the two parts - I'm using Stynylrez Black Primer for the first time ( what a lousy name ), and I must say, I'm impressed, sprayed nicely, covered well, and cleaned up easily from the a/b. Scale Model Shop have a load of different colours * stynylrez * worth a look
Next, I have Olive Drab anti-glare panels on the nose, and inner engine cowls. I'm going to hand paint these, before masking up for those yellow cowls..................
Dave

 

[Gern]

Looking good Dave. Can I ask what you used to clean your A/B after using Stynylrez? I've tried it and it's an excellent primer but I've had nightmares getting my A/B clean afterwards.

 

[Dave Ward]

Dave,
Errrr - I just use tap water. Flush through the cup, pull the needle back, remove & clean the nozzle cap, reassemble, and blow through with a water + a few drops of washing up liquid. That's it.
Dave

 

[Jim R]

Hi Dave
Just had a catch-up. It looks to be a nice kit even with the iffy instructions. Fine, neat job you're doing. I am another who likes the Stynylrez primer.
Jim

 

[Dave Ward]

First pass at the metal fuselage, the anti-glare panel, and the de-icer boots on the tail surfaces are masked...........
I'm using Vallejo Metal Color Aluminium, misted on, I'll need a few coats, before sealing it all with gloss varnish.
I hand painted the Olive Drab anti-glare panels, then masked all up to spray the yellow on the cowlings
In retrospect, I should have primed the cowls with a neutral grey, as spraying yellow over black is not good, I'm going to need several passes at this before I get good coverage. I'm using AK RLM 04 Yellow, as I thought it may give better coverage than my Vallejo yellow!
Dave

 

[Jakko]

Spraying yellow over just about anything is asking for coverage trouble, really I usually begin with a white primer, then the yellow, and mask it off before painting the rest of the model. It’s really the only way to get a good, solid yellow that I’ve found.

 

[Dave Ward]

Applied a 3rd coat of yellow! Hmmmm I think I'll have to try and brush paint with normal Vallejo Model Color.....................
Dave

 

[Jakko]

My experience is that four or five coats tend to cover reasonably adequately … but it might just be easier to mask off the rest of the model, spray some white primer over the yellow, and then apply one coat of yellow paint over that.

 

[Dave Ward]

I've given the yellow a brush coat of Vallejo Model Color RLM 04, and although not perfect, another coat should finish it. I've removed the masking from the fuselage - a slight bleed under of aluminium over the olive drab, but a bit of a touch up has covered this. I'll have to add the glazing to the fuselage, then a gloss coat over all.
Dave

 

[yak face]

Ive found that too dave , the vallejo metal colors and modelair metallics are prone to finding their way under the edge of masking , i had the same problem on the Morava with the silver on the wings seeping onto the white of the fuselage and nacelles. Maybe these paints have a slightly different formulation that softens the masking tape glue a little? Or is it just that theyre more thinned than normal , cheers tony

 

[Dave Ward]

Masking removed from the cowlings. Probably due to the number of coats of yellow, some bleeding has occurred.

Next, I'll have to mask off the cowls, and the de-icer boots on the wing, the I'll be able to get the wing sprayed aluminium.
I've added the fuselage windows - there are 3 remaining cockpit glazing bits, that I'm painting the frames before adding to the model.
Not far off final assembly, it will all come together quickly
Dave

 

[Jakko]

That yellow has come out alright, and at least painting some green over it shouldn’t be any problem

 

[Si Benson]

Yellow is a so and so, I remember from my Warhammer 40k days.
The citadel paint had terrible coverage so I used to prime every thing in white!

 

[Jakko]

All yellow has terrible coverage, even worse than red. It doesn’t really depend on which paint you use (though some are better than others) because it’s inherent to the colour/pigments. Priming in white, or some better-covering colour close to what you actually want, like sand, is the best way to get it to cover OK, if you ask me.

 

[Dave Ward]

I masked the wings - using Tamiya masking film, and gave the wings a couple of misted coats of aluminium. Then, always a tense moment, the masks were removed....................
Not bad - no bleeding, I was very careful to press down the mask edges.
The cockpit is glazed - these were a tight fit, and once they had eventually clicked into place, I decided to leave well alone - I'll have to deal with the gaps & retouch the paint, especially the glare panel shortfall, but generally OK
I don't know how I fouled that up - the other side is OK. I have the instrument panel to fit, and then I can think about uniting the 2 assemblies
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

Parts finally united. Glue, of any sort removes the aluminium paint, so more touch up required. I should have given an overall gloss varnish before joining!
After attending to the seams, I will have to gloss coat over all, before beginning the decal application. This is proving to be a challenging build, but I think will be worth it!
Dave

 

[Jakko]

I must say I like the looks of the plane in that metal finish.

 

[Dave Ward]

Metal finishes look good, but they show up every flaw, and seem to mark very easily - I'll be glad when I can get a protective varnish coat over everything!
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

After a gloss varnish overspray, a light panel wash, and now ready for decals..............
Taking much longer to make than I anticipated - but I'm still enjoying this build
Dave

 

[yak face]

Looking lovely now dave , its got very classic lines hasnt it? Cheers tony