Dave's 1/35 ICM T-34/76 ( Late 1943 production )

Dave Ward

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icm t-34 .jpg
Sprue shots:
DSCF2430.JPGDSCF2431.JPGDSCF2432.JPGDSCF2433.JPGDSCF2434.JPG X 2

The ICM model comes with vinyl tracks, which I do not like, so I'm replacing them with MSD Individual links. These were sourced directly from the maker in Russia.
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Several finishes, all in 4B0.......................
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I've made a ICM T-34/85 before, I don't anticipate any fit problems - I just have to select the correct roadwheels - the spares box will grow a bit more. The ICM model looks good, but would be improved by better tracks, a metal barrel & PE grilles. - well 1 out of 3 will do
Dave
 

Graeme C.

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Nice choice Dave, built the ICM T-34/76 Model 1943 without the cupola, really enjoyed building it, except for those rubber tracks!
 

Dave Ward

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Nice choice Dave, built the ICM T-34/76 Model 1943 without the cupola, really enjoyed building it, except for those rubber tracks!
Those rubber tracks are a real downside to the ICM models ( which is why I got AM parts ) . ICM should take a leaf out of the Zvezda method of making tracks! ( I did the Zvezda T-34/85, as well! ) - Although Russian & Ukrainian relations are a bit fraught at the momen!
Dave
 

Lee Drennen

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Nice looking Dave hope you enjoy building it
 

Tim Marlow

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Another take on the icon….the Indy tracks look excellent as well. If nothing else they look easy to clean up :thumb2:
 

Dave Ward

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Finally off and running - a brief period snipping & gluing, and the lower chassis & running gear is complete....
DSCF3011.JPG
........and the roadwheels, idlers & sprockets - there are two sets of roadwheels & sprockets, so after removing the unwanted bits the wheels etc are assembled.
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Both of these will be primed & basecoated - I always like to get the chassis & the tracks sorted, before moving on the the upper hull & turret ( which is why I started at stage 13 in the instructions ).
Dave
 

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Back to the more involved kits....I take it you have mended up sufficiently , just take it slow and enjoy the build. Good luck with the individual links. I will follow with interest. Rick H.
 

Dave Ward

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I primed & sprayed the chassis & wheels with AK3 Russian Green, I'll start to paint the rubber tyres next.
Individual track links started. They aren't 'working' tracks, but fit together nicely - using my best side cutters to get them off the sprue, there's no clean up needed!
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I make my own link & length assemblies, the two straight runs are the bottom parts, between the first & last roadwheels. They're assembled on the back of a metal rule, which has a convenient groove. Once a run is dry assembled, I use the Revell Contacta needle to put small drops on each join. I'll leave those for a couple of hours to harden off before the next bits.
Dave
 

Graeme C.

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Looking good Dave, I hope you're back to full health.
 

Dave Ward

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Length runs assembled, primed & basecoated - I have one sprue of individual links to fill in any gaps...........
DSCF3015.JPG
The individual links all fitted very well, no clean up or force needed. Curved sections for round the sprockets/idlers created by joining them flat, applying TET, allowing to dry for a few minutes, then forming round the actual parts. If you time it right, they won't stick to the part. I work out the lengths of the top & bottom runs by measuring distances between sprocket & idler axles ( top ), and first & last roadwheel axles ( bottom ). It's better to be a link or so short - it's easier to add one or two, than having to tear them off!.
Assembly will begin with the bottom run - a dot of CA on each of the inner roadwheels is the starting point. Hopefully the sequence of plain link - toothed link - plain link will work out, but if not, hidden by the sprocket! I use CA generally for final track assembly, quick grab being desirable!
Dave
 

Dave Ward

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A comparatively trouble free track assembly.
DSCF3018.JPGDSCF3019.JPG
I know people struggle with individual links, but I assemble straight runs on a rule, and essentially make my own link & length tracks. Luckily the T-34 tracks are unidirectional, so you don't have to worry about left & right assemblies. These AM links are well formed & fit together snugly, albeit the plastic is a bit soft & too much glue melts them ( I won't show you the underside of the tank! ). Just a matter of dry fitting, before using the CA. I started with the bottom run, then added the sprocket & the idler, neither of these being glued yet, so I could rotate them for best fit. The last part was the top run, I'd left it short, and had to add two extra links per side. It worked out that I had tooth-blank-tooth all the way round! I still have about a dozen links spare, and the carpet monster hasn't been around................
I'll put this aside & make a start on the upper hull & turret - shouldn't take long it's pretty simple.
Dave
 

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I agree with Lee.....I like the color you used for the tire of the road wheels....is it a custom mix or out of the bottle? Rick H.
 

Jim R

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Hi Dave
Firstly I think you're being wise to "listen" to your hand - don't risk overdoing it.
Looks a nice kit and the replacement tracks are worth the extra outlay.
Jim
 
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