Eduard 1/48 Scale Bf 109G-10

[SteveT]

So after much thought and indecision, i'm just about to start my next build. This is very interesting for me for several reasons, firstly the last fixed wing aircraft model I built was like in 1977-78 or so. Secondly I've never done an Eduard kit before and it comes with a masking set and photo etch parts ...both of which i've never used before.

So I'm going into this with a mixture of excitement and nervousness. Eeek!

Here's the box and the contents! more images to come down the line.

 

[SteveT]

I'm looking at the instructions and well, I'm stuggling to work out what colours/brand they use.
Looking at this image, I'm not sure what colours H and C refer to. I assumed H was humbrol but it seems not.

Edit: Nevermind, I worked it out!

 

[Jakko]

If it’s H and C references, it’s almost certainly to Mr. Aqueous (H) and Mr. Color (C) paints. Taking a quick look at the instructions on Scalemates, I see this table:



At the top, it says “GSi Creos (GUNZE)” — GSi Creos is the current name for the company that makes the Mr. Hobby line of paints, tools, and lots more; they used to be known as Gunze-Sangyo, which is what a lot of people still call it and why it says GUNZE as well.

If you want to use a different brand of paint, though, I would advise ignoring the GSi references and also those to Mission Models paints, and instead look at the RLM numbers. Those are the official German paint numbers used by the Luftwaffe during the war (RLM = Reichsluftfahrtministerium, “National Aviation Ministry”), and a lot of model paint manufacturers make paints matched to those.

 

[SteveT]

Unfortunately I may abandon this before it has really started.
The first step is the cockpit, I primed some of the parts and then got to the PE ..oh dear

1:- applying paint to the PE was almost impossible, it just wouldn't stick
2:- Some of the cockpit PE needs bending, it's very tiny and I know if I attempted it without a bendng tool, I'll mess it up.

I don't have a PE bending tool right now.

So yeah, I may just file this for now and come back at it when I have the tool. Which is a shame, but so be it.

 

[Mark1]

Use something like a steel rule place on top of the etch fold line and fold the other side up with blade from underneath

 

[SteveT]

Use something like a steel rule place on top of the etch fold line and fold the other side up with blade from underneath

I'll have to buy one.

 

[Jakko]

You don’t need a bending tool at all, you can work with photoetched parts perfectly well with some relatively cheap tools. The steel ruler Mark mentioned is a good one to have anyway, not just for this Flat pliers, especially long-nosed ones, are also a very handy tool for bending these parts.

 

[SteveT]

Just ordered a 6in metal ruler, thanks everyone.

 

[Jim R]

Getting paint to stick to PE. Two things which may help. Firstly the PE must be cleaned and surface slightly roughed up. This can be done with a fine sanding stick or sand paper. Better still a fiberglass pen. If you use a pen be very careful as the pen sheds very fine "hairs" of fibreglass which can irritate the skin. Clean the work area with a damp tissue or similar. Secondly prime the metal with a metal primer. I like VMS Metal Prep 4k.

 

[Andy T]

I thought the pe in these profipacks was all pre-coloured anyway, so I'm not sure why you are painting it.

I've never owned a photo etch bending tool, there's usually something else that will do the job. I usually use pliers, a blade, or just my fingers & nails.

 

[SteveT]

I thought the pe in these profipacks was all pre-coloured anyway, so I'm not sure why you are painting it.

I've never owned a photo etch bending tool, there's usually something else that will do the job. I usually use pliers, a blade, or just my fingers & nails.

I could easily have this wrong but I think it was supposed to be painted, here's that bit of the instructions: PE26 is the part and unless I'm mistaken, it does say to paint it black grey?


But frankly it's a moot point because I've decided to just slide this back for the time being and work on something else, I don't feel up to tackling PE now I've seen it up and close. So I will very carefully file this and return after one or two other kits.

 

[Easyrider5258]

You don't Have to bother with the PE most of which won't be seen when assembled, in the cockpit just assemble seat, joystick, instrument panels or whatever you feel you can do, the 109 is a small aircraft anyway and will be easier to just get the kit together without all the unseen pe detail

 

[Andy T]

I could easily have this wrong but I think it was supposed to be painted, here's that bit of the instructions: PE26 is the part and unless I'm mistaken, it does say to paint it black grey?

Ah yes, my mistake.

 

[Waspie]

Just ordered a 6in metal ruler, thanks everyone.

That’s all I bought mate.
That a Stanley knife blade and my specs perched on the end of my nose is all I usually need!!! My Challenger 2 was my intro to PE. Have read of various threads on the subject on this site and you’ll be away.
Tbh, the daunting bit is filing off any humps and bumps. Always scared it’ll fly off onto the garage floor!!

 

[Magneto]

You don't Have to bother with the PE most of which won't be seen when assembled, in the cockpit just assemble seat, joystick, instrument panels or whatever you feel you can do, the 109 is a small aircraft anyway and will be easier to just get the kit together without all the unseen pe detail

I could easily have this wrong but I think it was supposed to be painted, here's that bit of the instructions: PE26 is the part and unless I'm mistaken, it does say to paint it black grey?
View attachment 505191

But frankly it's a moot point because I've decided to just slide this back for the time being and work on something else, I don't feel up to tackling PE now I've seen it up and close. So I will very carefully file this and return after one or two other kits.

Right Steve, don’t worry about it. Your decision makes perfect sense. Using PE is an art unto itself and then Eduard kits are a little high end top quality kits - especially the Profi kits.

You could go on stalemates (lol) and look at some kits you are interested in - look at the manuals and see which ones have minimum PE.

bottom line - If you’ve been out of the game for so long best to cut yourself some slack

I’m on my 4th kit now after 3 decades and learning curve is sheer cliff steep

 

[Magneto]

You don't Have to bother with the PE most of which won't be seen when assembled, in the cockpit just assemble seat, joystick, instrument panels or whatever you feel you can do, the 109 is a small aircraft anyway and will be easier to just get the kit together without all the unseen pe detail

You mean get the Weekend edition then?

 

[Dave Ward]

Eduard models come in 2 flavours - the ' Profipack ' like yours, with PE, masks & usually 3 or 4 marking choices - the alternative is the ' Weekend ' boxing this doesn't have PE or masks & you only have maybe 2 markings. The Weekend boxings are cheaper! I wonder at times whether the Profipack is worth the extra cash - I very rarely use more than 2 or 3 bits from the PE fret & you only have one model - so the unused decals go into the spares box, never to see the light of day again! With PE you really do have to ask yourself - ' Will this improve the model?' With Eduard the PE is an alternative to plastic, so you don't actually have to use it!
Dave

 

[Magneto]

Eduard models come in 2 flavours - the ' Profipack ' like yours, with PE, masks & usually 3 or 4 marking choices - the alternative is the ' Weekend ' boxing this doesn't have PE or masks & you only have maybe 2 markings. The Weekend boxings are cheaper! I wonder at times whether the Profipack is worth the extra cash - I very rarely use more than 2 or 3 bits from the PE fret & you only have one model - so the unused decals go into the spares box, never to see the light of day again! With PE you really do have to ask yourself - ' Will this improve the model?' With Eduard the PE is an alternative to plastic, so you don't actually have to use it!
Dave

I have often mulled over this myself and so have a mixed stash. What makes Profi good are the belts, cockpit placards (no bending) and masks.

If you are modelling a 72 kit then I don’t see the benefit and less still if the canopy is closed (see my current build if you wish)

you can mask yourself if you have some experience but it’s a critical part of the kit (ditto).

you can make your own belts (ditto)

if you are building a 48 with an open canopy then the profi or no profi is a little more subjective

buying either masks or belts makes it justifiable to go profi.

We spoke about this the other day - some of those PE pieces are taking the PE! lol

 

[SteveT]

Been thinking about this overnight and I've definitely decided to 'park' it and return when I have 2-3 more kits under my belt.

 

[Magneto]

I could easily have this wrong but I think it was supposed to be painted, here's that bit of the instructions: PE26 is the part and unless I'm mistaken, it does say to paint it black grey?
View attachment 505191

But frankly it's a moot point because I've decided to just slide this back for the time being and work on something else, I don't feel up to tackling PE now I've seen it up and close. So I will very carefully file this and return after one or two other kits.

Been thinking about this overnight and I've definitely decided to 'park' it and return when I have 2-3 more kits under my belt.

If you get an AZ joypack you get 3 decent kits for about £20 or less. You will need some decals though