Ian M's Sd.Kfz.8 12t half track. Trumpeter. 1/35.

minitnkr

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Don't see these done often. Canone included?
 

The Smythe Meister

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Hmmm,seen these on the Bay that is Evil a few times.......
....... Not been tempted......not yet,anyway!! ;)......
.... I`ve read it`s a very nicely detailed kit :thumb2:,looking forward to seeing the sprue shots.
 

Jim R

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My GB contribution is also a Trumpeter kit. It will be interesting to see if yours has similar good and bad points.
 

Ian M

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A mini in box review to start the ball rolling!

Cheers chaps.
Having gotten a nice clear bench, Yes it happens, I got round to taking the sprue shots... LOADS of them.
20220920_143737.jpg
Lots of plastic in the box. All in their own bag. Some had added protection by way of some foam padding to protect some of the more fine parts.
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As Well as the good old fashioned assembly guide the over-view of the sprues reviles that there are no fewer than 14 sprues of tan plastic. TEN with the single link tracks, One clear, a fret of P.E. a bag with string and chain etc. 6 tyres A large part (rear bed of truck), and a partridge in a pear treeeeeee. phew. Oh a small decal sheet with the dials and number plates options. NO UNIT MARKS!
Colour call outs in the 20 pages of instructions can be seen in the bottom right of page two. So I know the rockercovers are steel! lol.

Time for a closer look at the plastic:
20220920_143807.jpg
The detail looks OK, as to the accuracy, I'll leave that to the experts! Mouldings are reasonably clean!

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Some sprues have more blind tabs* than others.
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Would it had hurt them to have actual slats in the radiator guard?
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Yeah. more Louvres to open out... grrr.
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Not quite Tamiya but they look to be ok. Have to wait and see.
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Final bit in the box, a colour paint guide.
Summary:
Some of the sprues are a tiny bit fuzzy here and there, but nothing a quick swipe with a sharp blade or a sanding stick wont take care of.
A few colour call outs along the way would be nice.

*blind tab: What I call those little bits of extra plastic that allows/ensures that the moulded part gets enough plastic by letting it fill and overflow. cut of and keep to make filler.

Right then. New blades in the Swanns, glasses cleaned and I am almost ready.
 

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Jakko

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Would it had hurt them to have actual slats in the radiator guard?
I wondered that about the Dragon Sd.Kfz. 7 too. On the real thing, they were moveable, so they could be turned to close the radiator front entirely. However, they seem to typically be moulded as if fully open, but with plastic behind so it’s not actually open …

Those tracks look very doable, by the way. Only one attachment point and the ejector pin marking is on the sprue next to the link. Far better than many (he said, having gotten aching fingers this afternoon from filing off those markings from Dragon “Magic” track links that are probably about half the length and width of these).
 

Ian M

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So through the fuzziness of a head cold I have made a start.
Carina had a telephone meeting with a client in Canada late yesterday, so I had an hour or so to play.
Got the Engine built. Painting will be fun I know but I think I will manage.
20220921_120607.jpg20220921_120718.jpg

The gearbox to the track drive wheels is not to bad either.
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I built the sub frame up today. Spot the mistake.

The drive wheels has two options. As far as I can tell the only difference is the 'hub' in the center is larger on the one and smaller on the other option. I went for the smaller one. which is, with my luck the wrong one. lol Compared to the Tamiya FAMO there is a lot more detail on the wheels:
20220921_120801.jpg

the front axel has good detail. and a lot more parts than the Tamiya kit.
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And here is the 'corrected' version of the sub frame.
20220921_142138.jpg

Right then! Who spotted the mistake?
 

Allen Dewire

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I'm not sure which mistake you made Ian, but you did not off-set the rollers on the drive sprockets. Your tracks, which are pretty easy to assemble, will not sit on them properly. With such large drive sprockets, this will be obvious.

Oh, and the left side supports on the chassis are glued up and not down like the right side (your mistake). I have both kits of the 12 ton and if you need any help Ian, just holler. Also, might be an idea to check the review on PMMS of the Trumpeter 01584 armored 12 ton version that Terry did. It will help you out too...Hope you are feeling better and lastly, the 18 ton was called the Famo. not the 12 ton versions.

Prost
Allen

PS, glue with a needle tip dispenser (Contacta, Faller expert. etc) used sparingly, will leave you with fully workable track runs......
 
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Ian M

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Oh, and the left side supports on the chassis are glued up and not down
Glad the sticky out at the side bits are now the right way up :tongue-out3:
It was indeed the bump stop things. Discovered today that I had put them ALL on upside-down! duh! Fortunately I managed to get them sorted. (a bit of mud here and there will soon hide the bodge. lol.

Not sure what you mean here Allen:
you did not off-set the rollers on the drive sprockets
There are locators in the ring with the Rollers and they can only go that way/position. I can see on the Tamiya kit they are not quite centred on the flats of the wheel. is that what you are referring to.

As for the FAMO my bad. I thought it was the factory that made them all.... So Who built the 12 ton?
 

Allen Dewire

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Hi Ian,

The 12 ton was built by Mercedes Benz, Krupp and Krauss-Maffei. The Famo was built by Fahrzeug und Motoren Werk in Breslau and by Vomag. Sköda, late in the war, built some Famo's with a 12-cylinder diesel motor in them....

Sorry, but I am kind of a nerd on these things and glad you saw the offset rollers on the drive sprocket fix on PMMS. I hope it won't be too hard to fix them. Most of all, have fun!!! If you get tired of the cannon towing idea, I have a suggestion that is more interesting.....

Prost
Allen
 

Jakko

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I hope it won't be too hard to fix them.
Carefully slice them off and refit them in the correct position?

On my Sd.Kfz. 251 I’ve not done this yet (some of you may have seen it has the same problem) but I do think I will go ahead and fix it, though by just cutting them off, fitting rollers and then scratchbuilding the bracket on the outside as well. On this Sd.Kfz. 8 kit it looks like just moving the existing ones will work, though.
 

Jakko

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How about a Gotha 242?

Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-561-1130-24A%2C_Grosseto%2C_Zugkraftwagen%2C_Lastensegler_Gotha_Go_242.jpg

(source)
 

Allen Dewire

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Good idea Jakko, but the 12 ton couldn't get it into the air.........So Ian,

How about driver's training at the Peenemunde rocket testing site on the north sea. A 12-ton towing a V2 on a Meillerwagen through an obstacle course,

athene-6eigd3ddx2810j0spnmr_layout[1].jpg

Come on, you know towing a cannon is boring.......Ok, so most of them did tow artillery, but a little food for thought..........

Prost
Allen
 

Ian M

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Good idea Jakko, but the 12 ton couldn't get it into the air...
LOL

How about driver's training at the Peenemunde rocket testing site
Admittedly not something you see that often but, alas I fear t'is to late the canon's are bought and paid for, as I quite like artillery.

Today I will attempt to part the drive wheels and sort out the problem.
Anything else I should know about. BEFOR I stick it together...
 

Allen Dewire

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Morn Ian,

Ok, I can understand that you already have something in the stash......
Anything else I should know about. BEFOR I stick it together...

Not really. If you follow Terry's tip on offsetting the rollers, you'll be fine. With the tracks built, you should end up with something like this (hope you don't mind the pic),

IMG_3127.JPG

The rest of the build should be pretty straight forward. If I may ask, what cannon will she be towing?

Prost
Allen
 
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