ICM 1/35 Bergepanther - Early Variant

[Dave Ward]

Eventually ended up having a real blitz on the tracks - essentially it's now just link & length

The two top runs are the same length ( 112mm! ) as the distance between the 1st & 8th roadwheel axles.
The number of links around the sprockets & idlers is by eye. The 4 same size assemblies will be the roadwheel/sprocket/idler links. These are all ready for priming ( the tracks aren't glued to the sprockets/idlers ).
This represents 3/4 of the track links, the top run, will be assembled separately, as this is where the 'sag' will be. From various pictures, it looks like the tracks ran from the idler along the top of the roadwheels to between the 3-4 ( from the front ), then rose in an arc to the drive sprocket. It's only a guess, as contemporary pictures of intact Panthers without skirts aren't common.
This is my normal method of assembling individual track links - I'm sure that others have different ways, but this is what works for me..................
Dave

 

[Jakko]

If you can’t get a kit with link-and-length tracks, make your own

 

[outrunner]

Looking good Dave.

Andy.

 

[JR]

Wow, impressive. The things of nightmares !

 

[Dave Ward]

Tracks finished and primed...........................

I primed with my own mix of black, dark grey, brown & gunmetal, its a good base for washes & weathering - no particular formula, just add paints until it looks right! I made a bottle of this ( about 75ml ), so I can touch up after final track assembly, and on my next tracked model ( whatever it is ).
Up to now, I've been using Revell Contacta for assembly, the metal needle gives precise drops. For final assembly, I'll be going to CA - I'll use Loctite, my favoured brand ( the nozzle seems to stay clearer longer, than others ), then when all has set firmly, I'll touch up the joints with the primer.
I have the roadwheel tyres to paint, and then the fittings to add on the backplate ( exhausts etc ) before I can add the tracks & call the chassis complete.
Dave

 

[scottie3158]

Dave,
The tracks have gone together well. The colour looks a nice mix as well.

 

[Dave Ward]

Dave,
The tracks have gone together well. The colour looks a nice mix as well.

It's just a neutral colour, you can lighten, or darken it, as needed - the addition of gunmetal just gives it a slight sheen - one thing you have to do before spraying it, is to see what colour it dries as! My initial mix looked a little dark chocolate, luckily I'd done my patch test & was able to add black/grey & a little more gunmetal.
Track colour is one of those subjects that you can argue about, without drawing any conclusions, there's no right answer, so I settle for 'looks good to me!'
Dave

 

[scottie3158]

It's just a neutral colour, you can lighten, or darken it, as needed - the addition of gunmetal just gives it a slight sheen - one thing you have to do before spraying it, is to see what colour it dries as! My initial mix looked a little dark chocolate, luckily I'd done my patch test & was able to add black/grey & a little more gunmetal.
Track colour is one of those subjects that you can argue about, without drawing any conclusions, there's no right answer, so I settle for 'looks good to me!'
Dave

Dave I agree talking about colours is a real wasps nest. I'm like you if it looks ok to me then that's good enough.

 

[JR]

Love it, looks really good.

 

[Dave Ward]

Let battle commence.........................................

I'll try to take pictures as I go along.......................
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

First, add the roadwheels - the sprocket ( not glued ) overlaps the first double wheel, so you have to add them together.... I haven't added the outer layer of single wheels, they get in the way of touching up!

The bottom run is added, using a spot of CA on each double wheel. The front links assembly is pressed onto the sprocket & then turned, so the ends of the track meet up and are CA'd together....................

A similar process is used with the idler, except the track is glued to the idler - this is then turned, so the ends of the track meet up.
The first bit of the top run is added, from the idler forwards, again a dot of CA is added to secure to the wheels.
You have to improvise to keep the parts together until they set....................

The upper runs are tricky on the ICM Panther, purely due to the lack of space between wheels and sponsons/mud guards the last pieces are a bit like keyhole surgery! You can measure the number of links roughly, but I'm usually one or two links under/over in my lengths ( better to be under, as you can add links - removing them can be a pain! )

Not the tidiest of tracks, but, as long as the lower runs are OK, then that's fine. The uneven top runs will be covered by the schurzen! I need to retouch the paints & add the outer wheels before calling the running gear complete & I can turn to the uppers.
Dave

 

[Jakko]

That seems to have gone pretty well, all things considered. And like you say, if there’s going to be Schürzen on the tank, if there’s a little unevenness or poor fit at the top, it’s no real problem.

 

[Dave Ward]

Touched up & outer roadwheels added.

This will be put aside now & the upper hull taken in hand.............
Dave

 

[Tim Marlow]

Wow, this is moving along at a cracking pace Dave.

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Very nice indeed Dave,
Really like the colour on the tracks ,
Andy

 

[Graeme C.]

Looking good Dave, I had the same trouble with the tracks on a Dragon Panther.

 

[Dave Ward]

Upper hull finished, just a load of little fittings & that turret ring blanking plate...................

I just have to add the wingnuts around the blanking plate ( job for a new day & steady hands ). I found I had a Eduard PE fret for the Dragon Panther - the oblong grilles will fit OK, the round ones may need a bit of trimming. Nearing the upper hull priming stage..............
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

Ready to join the uppers & lowers..................

All primed with my £5.29 airbrush! does what is says on the tin! Neither better nor worse than my other airbrushes, but at a significantly lower cost ( not that that's important to me! ). I'm going to add camouflage green patches - but these will be hard edged, like they were applied by hand brush.
All the tools have been left off, as well as the booms for the little crane, they'll be added at the finish..........
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

Getting to the final stretch now!

No real problems - firm pressure only needed! No filler needed! I'll paint the green camo, then add all the tools etc, before weathering overall.
Dave

 

[adt70hk]

Dave

That's coming on very nicely indeed. Love the track primer a great idea. I get a similar colour using separate steps but similar colours..... Never occurred to me to combine it all together.

Keep up the good with good work.

Andrew