Is primer really needed

[thepureness]

Beginner here guy. I've started modelling again after some fun in my child hood and I've had some issues with priming my new kit.

I've purchased a revell airbrush and some tamiya rattle can primers but my result of either brushing or spraying direct are terrible and I'm getting loads of defects under the paint. I have cleaned the plastic which some forums suggest. Is primer actually needed? Do any of you go straight to painting without it?

 

[saguy]

hi there .... i have never used a primer on any of my models ....also have not experienced any drama with the paint once it is on the model ... not sure if it is the right and most correct thing to do but it is working fine for me. welcome to the forum .. there r plenty of chaps here who will give u good sound advice ...... cheers lindsey

 

[Cooperman69]

Hi....

I returned to scale modelling myself not so long ago and found the info. And experience the guys share on this forum invaluable so far, so your in the right place.

Anyway, when I first started I too did not use primer but following some mishaps like peeling acrylic paint and paint separating with surface tension I was advised to both give the sprue a good and full clean to remove any mould residue and oils plus give a coat of primer for the acrylic to adhere to. It will also show any imperfections on the model surface to correct before painting.

I did find however that the rattle can primers where too overpowering and sprayed everywhere so I decided to use Vallejo model air primer in my airbrush with very pleasing results.

Atb, Colin

 

[CDW]

I don't use primer on models either, if you get your surface prepared correctly there's no real need in my opinion.

If the models were to be used or played with then i suppose i would primer and enamel the surface but they're just static display. I often give a base coat but this is with the acrylic paints use anyway.

I only use acrylic paints (combination of modeling and artists stuff), someone who uses enamels etc will be along to give their opinion from their point of view no doubt.

*edit* i should add i only use artists brushes ... not an airbrush.

 

[BarryW]

I am with Colin on this.

I too use Vallejo grey primer (the 200ml bottles) all the time after first cleaning the plastic with alcohol (IPA).

It is important to let the primer 'cure' and not just dry for 24 hours before painting over it.

As for imperfections. One of the jobs of primer is to show up imperfections in the build so these can be corrected before applying base coats.

After an initial thin primer coat I deal with problems areas with filler and sanding and afterwards give the whole model a very light sanding. I then do another primer coat to check again and if OK leave that 24 hours to cure ready to paint.

 

[CDW]

I am with Colin on this.

Barry means T'other Colin ...not me ..... Oh the confusion of posting at the same time with people with the same name heh heh heh

 

[BarryW]

Ohh yes, our posts crossed Colin (CDW one...)....

 

[dubster72]

I've used both Tamiya primer in rattle cans & Vallejo primer and both have worked well. I mainly prime if there's PE on the model, but quite often I don't bother.

I think the best thing is a good clean & rinse ( very important! ) while the parts are on the sprue & then touch the model as little as possible. I wear non-powdered latex gloves during construction.

Cheers

Patrick

 

[tecdes]

As Barry & Colin, the t'other one, I use primer which I have found essential. As Barry has said it is most difficult to see if you have made good all the filling without a primer. Also the filler being probably a different colour the primer gives a good overall single colour base otherwise you can have grinning through which takes more finishing coats to remove. Also Vallejo produce about 9 ( I think it is nine) primer colours so the opportunity is there to use a primer the colour near to the final coat.

Just finished a model with a yellow top & darkish blue bottom. Kept to Vallejo grey primer (did not listen to advice). Mistake should have used their yellow, Vallejo that is, as coverage to get a good yellow depth took 4 final coats over the grey primer. The blue would have covered the yellow undercoat easily. Vallejo also produce a white undercoat which is perfect for a white or off white finish similarly with black.

Also found that the primer tends to get rid of those very tiny scratches & very minor imperfections which are impossible to with filler.

Just to confirm that I do not prime the small bits & pieces.

Laurie

 

[noble]

I'm a big tamiya but paint fan but i will not use their rattle cans, i really don't like the way it sprays. i use humbrol primer in a rattle can, it goes on smooth and press the surface well for paint.

Scott My

 

[phalinmegob]

when i first started, i tried painting without primer and found that quite often the paint would come off with masking tape or the slightest scratch from a finger nail,never had the same problems after priming, i persoonally use wilkinson primer grey,only about four quid for a big can and have occasionally used poundland stuff but it bloody stinks and comes out too fast. halfords plastic primer is good but a bit more expensive. i prime everything now as a matter of course and sometimes prime the whole sprue and leave it a day before i start the model.one scrape with a sharp blade on the glueing edge to remove.

 

[michaelm]

I use primer in rattle cans, as Scott mentioned the Humbrol worked well, I mostly now use Halfords grey primer I find it covers really well, mists beautifully.

As already mentioned the primer shows up where I need to make good before I colour coat, on a smooth body plane I find this essential, I also find a primer coat gives better adhesion to both the plastic and further paint coats. It is very important I find when using a rattle can to work from a good distance and mist the model slowly building the paint up. M

 

[Richy C]

Wash prime paint for me , paint adhears a lot better to a primed surface in my humble opinion also shows up any imperfections and hides light sanding marks as mentioned above , as for primers I`ve tried the Vallejo range but prefer Halfords grey and white rattle cans , great value - great coverage - drys quickly and as good as the Tamiya primers but you get 3 to 4 times more for the same price.

Again this is only my opinion

Cheers

Richy

 

[stona]

Is primer really needed?

A matter of opinion but probably not.

Do I prime my models?

You bet I do. It does help most paints adhere better tham they would to the plastic and has other benefits already mentioned by the fellows above.

Cheers

Steve

 

[TonyBv9]

I think primer is needed for acrylics. I've used halfords rattle cans for my last few models and there does seem to be a difference in the way the (brushed) colour paints go on.

I painted the spinner on my current model without primer - just to test the paint, really - and I can scrape it off with my thumbnail. I will now prime it before painting it properly.

A can of primer from Halfords and a couple of plastic bottles makes a relatively cheap experiment.

Tony

 

[aaron]

I wash, prime, paint, klear, everything including figures.

I use decanted tamiya white and grey primers shot through the airbrush.

 

[tecdes]

Forgot to mention Colin's "Grit Colin" for preparing the plastic surface for primer. Gives a perfect finish for painting.

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/quick-tips/15756-bird-grit-sanding-buffing-technique.html

Laurie

 

[CDW]

Colin's "Grit Colin" . Gives a perfect finish for painting.

Patent applied for and your fivers in the post Laurie

 

[tecdes]

Patent applied for and your fivers in the post Laurie

Blimey is that all Colin. I thought a pack of grit was included in the deal !

Laurie