Johnson Wax Klear Vs Pledge Multi-Surface Wax

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C

Caledonia

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The Tamiya Model Magazine International; Dec 2009; Issue 170; Page 66 has an article where they are comparing the above products. Their conclusions are that although the new product has a milky appearance with a hint of brown, when used on Canopies it dries clear.

They also airbrushed a coat of the new product over Lifecolor UA221 paint, they recommended that you work more slowly as it has more of a tendency to pool, but otherwise the results were fine, and Decalling was not a problem, they used Daco's setting solution. They overcoated the area with two coats of Humbrol Matt Cote, and everything looked good.

Hope this is of some use. Derek
 

stona

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One of the guys on Britmodeller had less positive things to say about the new formula. I haven't tried it myself so I can't really make a judgement. He did find another acrylic floor polish that worked well but I don't have details. You could probably search the thread out over there.

Some stores still seem to be carrying stocks of the old formula Klear as well as several online retailers. I've got a few bottles in the loft. A friend,who shall remain nameless to protect the guilty, has sixteen bottles stashed. With the best will in the world I doubt he will live long enough to use it up! Apparently some people use it on their floors,what a waste.

Cheers

Steve
 
C

colprit

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re klear

Ifound some johnson klear multi surface wax in wilkinsons if it is any help to anyone just under £4

colin
 

stona

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Hi Colin ,the multi surface wax is the new formula,if you use it let us know how you get on.

Cheers

Steve
 
C

Caledonia

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Scott, It’s a matter of personal preference. For myself every time I have tried to brush, I end up with air bubbles on the surface. I dunk the Cockpits in a small tube, and for the larger areas I airbrush neat. Derek
 
D

dubster72

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I've done it both ways Scott, and not had any trouble. Having said that, I always use the AB to apply it now, just coz it's easier. Patrick
 
N

noble

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Cheers for the info guys will get me some of that on friday.

thanks again

scott
 
C

colprit

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Steve just been going through my post and realised I had'nt answered you, sorry new to forums, anyhow the new formula is great, done most of the dozen models that I've done in it and really pleased with results. It seams to be like what you have all said about the old product.

Colin
 
F

Fareen

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Steve

I need those 16 bottles that your friend has as I use it on my floor, I know you think it's a waste but it's the only stuff that works on the floor. You're right your friend wont get through 16 bottles, would he be willing to sell the Klear bottles to me as I can't buy it from the shops anymore and I'm not keen on the new alternative. I live in Birmingham as well. Thanks
 
M

m1ks

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There are numerous threads about this if you look around, the sole reason I prefer the old over the new is the (lack of) smell.

New stuff is perfumed and gives me a bit of a headache after a few hours cooped up in the cave, (i get it at dept store perfume floors too), the old stuff is not perfumed hence easier on me.

I have 3/4 bottle of the old and a half of the new.

Said this before and will yet again as theres still debate, They both behave in exactly the same manner, in every respect.

I brush paint it just because it's easier, self levels nicely, dries clear, dissolves in itself, everything the old stuff does.

Mr Fareen, call me cynical but given the 1 post status would your needing all 16 bottles have anything to do with the fact that they're selling on ebay for £10 - £20 a bottle? Would you still want them at that price i wonder.

Added to which if the seller in question decided to sell i'm sure he'd prefer they were fairly meted out in smaller quantities to modellers, i may be wrong but thats my take.
 
B

Bunkerbarge

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m1ks, I think you are spot on however I can't for a minute imagine anyone either divulging the whereabouts of 16 bottles, never mind letting them all go to one greedy individual.

16 bottles all on your floors eh? Do you live in a hospital or something?
 

Gern

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What a cynical lot we are for sure. I thought exactly the same thing!

Gern
 

stona

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\ said:
they're selling on ebay for £10 - £20 a bottle?
That's ridiculous. There are alternatives as mentioned in this very thread. It's only a gloss varnish when all is said and done. I don't think my friend intends to sell any of his but if someone offered him £20 for a bottle I suspect he might change his mind.......I know I would.

I recently saw a reference book on ebay for over £300. I had bought the same book from a dealer in military and aviation books,who knew what it was, for £35 about a week earlier! Who makes these stupid bids?

Cheers

Steve
 
W

wanna_be_aviator

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Upon reading your posts and with the help of deduction science learned by studying the works of Sir A. Conan Doyle I by now have discovered the identity of the mysterious 16 bottle owner. Yet I will remain silent. I have tried a few brands of floor polish that contain polymers in their formula and they work fine. Be ware that you have to skillfully use the power of deduction science before you pick you subject and try something funny on your priceless model. I now settled for a certain Cobra floor polish made by Reckitt & Benckiser. It does the job for me and I even glue my canopies with it with great results. Just to say that there are plenty of options out there.
 

Ian M

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Right then. All this twaddle about Klear, be it the old type or the new type. Is it really the only way to go? I have some of the new stuff and yes I do use it for dipping canopies. Did the idea of using klear as a clear varnish arise due to the lack of a viable alternative? Was it because it was cheap and readily available? These days there are many water-based acrylic varnishes to be found. Not as cheap, I will give you that but can do every thing that we expect of the floor polish. (Except the dipping bit maybe others have tried with better success than I had. maybe it just needed thinning down some more).

I cant say for the original as I came after that boat had sailed but I often find that with the new one, it is not as resistant to spirit base washes, and often absorbs some of the wash. This has happened a couple of times and on each occasion, it has had a couple of days to dry before the wash was applied.

"Proper" acrylic clear coats have not given be the same problem.

I guess the question is do we use these Johnsson products because they do what we need, or do we use them 'because ever body else does'?

As for the chap with 16 bottles, I think we all know who that was and good luck to him. If he can sell them for a tenner a bottle, well his hobby is self supporting for the next few months.

I don't think I will be needing any more soon. But then again it is very good for granit floors.....

Ian M
 
T

tecdes

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Phew this is hotting up makes things very interesting !

Found stashed away in my wife's cleaning cupd. a bottle of the original Klear (£250 any offers ?)

So asked wife to coat an old wing half with old & half with new Klear (not to take sides with new or old so to speak). Studied the result & found that the old Klear is just a fraction glossier & only just. The new one seemed to me more smooth. Also that the old is thicker than the new. Placed a decal roundel on each trial & no difference whatsoever. Interestingly my wife had coated thicker in places & the thicker parts were more glossy suggesting that two coats will be more glossy than one.

Note what you say on spirit washes Ian M & soon going to embark on my first "weather the model" project. After finishing the small number of models completed so far I have airbrushed either satin or matt varnish on completion. Surprised that you use washes on the Klear is that the nomal procedure ? I had thought it best on the varnish finish but have only the knowledge about weathering that I have read.

Laurie
 
M

m1ks

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Of course its not the only way to go, there are lots of alternatives, Lakeland do one thats been mentioned round and about the forums, obviously we now know that cobra floor polish, (new to me but maybe a pic of the bottle a supplier sources would be good for the folks interested?), theres another in a blue bottle i've seen but don't recall the name at present, it looks like the new Klear, it lists ingredients the same and I suspect that it'll do the same job.

The irony with the old stuff being so expensive when you see it is that the whole reason for using this stuff in the first place was that IT WAS CHEAP! it's a cheap thin acrylic gloss varnish perfect for a pre weathering / decalling coat, whereas now, it isn't and i'm baffled that some people are so convinced of it's mystical power they'll pay and average of £15 for a bottle.

Some people believe that if you wipe a Klear saturated rag over a 70's airfix warbird it transforms it into a current Tamiya 1/32 scale highly detailed warbird, i think, utterly insane.

If the stockpiler is who I think i'd happily buy one or maybe two bottles from him at a reasonable cost which would see me for a long time for my useage of it, the only reason for me as said is the perfumed smell, that aside i'm happy to use the new.

Personally I think what he should do is list them one after the other individually on ebay for £10 start price and rake in the money and laugh his pants off, if I had 16 bottles i'd offer say 6 on here to people you know would appreciate and flog the other ten on ebay to the highest moron, i mean bidder :smiling3:

Re the coats and glossiness Laurie, the more coats, the glossier the finish, (you can also flatten with Tamiya's flat base for those who like to use it as a finishing coat) 30% dead flat, 20% Satin, 10% Semi Gloss. One coat won't give a high gloss, two will be looking a nice glossy / semi gloss and three will get it nice and shiny, not had any issues with Turps based oil washes getting through it, i always let it cure 24 hours before washing or using decal solvents.

Re alternatives, Hannants own Xtracryl gloss, semi gloss and flat varnishes are great value, £3 ish a big bottle, thiins with water and is gloopy so very economical and the best bit is it dries in 15 min, I didn't believe it either but first try i touched it after 20, bone dry, i oil washed it after 30, not a single hiccup, excellent stuff and I tend to use this for my finishing varnish, not tried the flat and some say it's more satin than flat but the gloss and satin are great.

There is one thing and one thing only it's perfect for, dipping clear parts, i've not found anything else that does the job quite as well., canopies or lenses, dip, sit on kitchen roll to soak up excess and result is a super glossy see through bit, also makes painting of canopy frames better and easier to clean up edges, if you make a complete mess re dip the part and wipe the lot off and start again.
 
B

Bunkerbarge

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I once dipped a motorcycle fairing screen in Kleer and it worked beautifully however just about everything else I do is with Tamiya clear in the bottle. It's just simple to me!
 
M

m1ks

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\ said:
I once dipped a motorcycle fairing screen in Kleer and it worked beautifully however just about everything else I do is with Tamiya clear in the bottle. It's just simple to me!
Was that dipped, brushed or AB, BB?

I never had much success brushing tamiya acryls including clear though they spray excellently.
 
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