Mr Color, is it lacquer??

BattleshipBob

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Evening,

Starting to move to lacquer paints and see that Mr Color has a very good reputation but, the web seems to be a bit confused (like me) regarding if its lacquer or not. Can somebody help?

I assume that two different makes of lacquer ie tamiya and mr color can be sprayed on top of each other including varnishes??

Just bought some mr color modulation sets from John, so hopefully can use the tamiya Lp varnish with mr color??
 

Mini Me

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Mr. Color is a lacquer base paint they also produce their own thinner called ,(you guessed it) Mr. Color Thinner 250. Works good.
Rick H.
 
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AlanG

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Can i ask why you are moving from acrylic to lacquer?
 

BattleshipBob

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Evening Al

Not a problem, i have always used Vallejo but for a while have been having some problems, trouble thinning it leading to many airbrush blockages. Despite shaking the bottle for ages. So tried laquer and was both surprised and very happy as to how easy to thin and spray
 
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Mr Color is my paint of choice Bob. I haven't tried many I'll admit but it's been so good that I haven't found the need to look elsewhere.

Their GX gloss clearcoat/varnish is peachy too, but I've heard good things about the tamiya one so stick with that if you're happy with it.
 

BattleshipBob

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Hi Andy

Thanks for that, only thing with tamiya is the lack of colours. So will try mr color along with tamiya

Do you think tamiya varnish would be ok with mr color Andy?
 

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Hi all, is it just me as regards Vallejo, I'm assuming here we're talking about air, I dont have any problems with it, no blockages, splutters or anything else. It for me sprays well after all, they must have tested it to destruction, right.
 
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I'm almost certain it would be Bob, although I haven't tried it myself.

I do intend to get a few of the Tamiya lacquers to try, and see if they'll mix OK with the Mr Color. Like you say though, the Mr Color range is huge so will probably stick with it, unless I get tempted to MRP.
 

BattleshipBob

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Thanks again Andy

Will look to see if mr color has the RAL number on there bottles?

Cheers bob
 

BattleshipBob

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Hi all, is it just me as regards Vallejo, I'm assuming here we're talking about air, I dont have any problems with it, no blockages, splutters or anything else. It for me sprays well after all, they must have tested it to destruction, right.
Hi, never had problems before but recently had far too many issues. After many blockages and a full swear box i had enough. I know the garage i use is not the best but i keep the paint in the house and always shake the bottle to death. It seems if the paint is going off??
 
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I'm not sure about RAL codes Bob, but some do have RLM or FS codes on them.

There's also a really good chart / leaflet available that lists all of their range, from all their different paints, modulation sets, even tools etc. and basic instructions.

Available here
 

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I have used Testor's Model Master Enamels and Mr. Color products for my entire modeling experience. These products have never failed me or let me down. Also, I have never experienced an airbrush blockage Testor's have a complete range of all the RAL, U.S., Russian etc color ranges. Don't know if you can get Testor's in your location but I highly recommend t. Rick H.
 

BattleshipBob

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Hi Rick

Testors are from the US? Will have a look

Thanks again bob
 

JR

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Hi, never had problems before but recently had far too many issues. After many blockages and a full swear box i had enough. I know the garage i use is not the best but i keep the paint in the house and always shake the bottle to death. It seems if the paint is going off??
Bob, evening mate .
If you look inside the bottle top you may have loads of crud. Also inside the bottle itself as the paint level drops some of the paint must start to clog up. Of course shaking like we do causes this to mix into the main volume of paint.
Small lumps can pass through the nozzel into the paint cup, the rest you know well.
I now mix my paints in a plastic shot glass, adding both thinners and retarder and stirring well. Model Air does spray better, but still add some thinners .
 

BattleshipBob

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Good point John

I also use cheap shot glasses plus a trumpeter stirrer. Will have to look under the cap. Many thanks John
 
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yak face

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Bob, evening mate .
If you look inside the bottle top you may have loads of crud. Also inside the bottle itself as the paint level drops some of the paint must start to clog up. Of course shaking like we do causes this to mix into the main volume of paint.
Small lumps can pass through the nozzel into the paint cup, the rest you know well.
I now mix my paints in a plastic shot glass, adding both thinners and retarder and stirring well. Model Air does spray better, but still add some thinners .
Too true John , I’ve had problems in the past with Vallejo and now do the same, always mix / decant into a container before putting into the airbrush . Any lumps that might have gone unnoticed if I d have just put it straight into the airbrush can be removed/ stirred in . The very thing that’s useful about the Vallejo range is the thing that causes the problems - the eye dropper bottle top. Paint tends to dry in the nozzle and thicken up and subsequently gets squeezed out with the rest of the paint , and if you’re putting it straight into the airbrush then this is where the problems start. I had no end of lumpy crap in a recent bottle of model air NATO black when I was doing the FIAT cr42 , the eye dropper nozzle was full of thickened paint which was blocking the airbrush nozzle. Like others I find Tamiya paints excellent but the limited colour range plus the difficulty getting them into the airbrush or mixing container meant I switched to Vallejo. I'm thinking about using my Tamiya paints a bit more now though as they always sprayed beautifully.
 
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