paint aluminum

[made2000]

Ok the american airlines 757 looks chrome but it calls for aluminum I found some paint called chrome aluminum and tried that, But had to use easy off to remove it cause when I masked it for some other things It left black marks and looked horrible. My ? is if I use regular aluminum paint will it give better results also I saw model master had a polishable aluminum do I need to go that route or can I polish normal aluminum spray paint at all.

 

[wonwinglo]

Ok the american airlines 757 looks chrome but it calls for aluminum I found some paint called chrome aluminum and tried that' date=' But had to use easy off to remove it cause when I masked it for some other things It left black marks and looked horrible. My ? is if I use regular aluminum paint will it give better results also I saw model master had a polishable aluminum do I need to go that route or can I polish normal aluminum spray paint at all.[/quote']*** Aluminium paint can present many problems,for a start it does not like masking tape as you have found out to your disdain,however I suspect that what you used was a material called 'bumper chrome' or 'chrome finish paint' this is a synthetic based material which does not like handling of any kind let alone masking up.

To get a far better aluminium finish akin to the type that you are after go for 'Volvo silver fox' or similar shiny silver finish,to start with you must prime your model with Halfords white undercoat,this is an acrylic spray which has got a soft nozzle,this means that the paint is diffused finely just like a modellers airbrush,dust in a coat of this first which effectively seals the plastic finish against cellulose attack,next mask off any cockpits etc with either tape or maskol and pick a fine day,give the model an overall coat of the Volvo silver finish,it will gleam.Once dry unmask and stand back and admire.This type of paint will also allow any further masking unlike the bumper ( or is it fender in the States !) chrome,you will immediately see the advantages of the undercoat white as it brings out the shine in the silver.

Having sprayed up my models for years with automobile finishes I can testify to the longevity of the paint,give it a try and see how you get on.

 

[duncan]

Have you consider using real metal? There are one or two stick-on micro thin strips that can be molded round curves and also allows some of the surface detail to show. It can be polished with Brasso and finer polishing pastes and powder to get exactly the metal effect of the real aircraft. I presume this is for a plastic kit. Ask at Hannants for real metal effects. There is a powder that can be burnished to give various metal effect too.

 

[made2000]

Ok got that thanks a ton now the only other issue I have to ressolve it I had no choice but sand off a few detail lines whats the best way to redo them, I tried a sharp hobby knife but the line was tiny what can I use.

 

[Kiwi]

When I was young and used to build plastic models I used "Rub 'n' Buff" to replicate bare metal.

 

[wonwinglo]

Ok got that thanks a ton now the only other issue I have to ressolve it I had no choice but sand off a few detail lines whats the best way to redo them' date=' I tried a sharp hobby knife but the line was tiny what can I use.[/quote']***Go to your local market stall and sort out the local tool seller,ask him for a set of 'Wax carvers' these are basically dental technicians tools and are a great asset to model builders,a set will cost in the region of £2.99 and they are excellent value for money,you can scrape & scribe to your hearts content.For the curved areas of your model that need re-scribing you will need a curved guide,for this go to a stationers and buy a roll of 'Dyno' tape,this is self adhesive backed plastic tape that can be stuck into position whilst you scribne the lines and then removed later.For straight lines such as ailerons etc use a small steel rule to guide the scribing tool.

Keep the questions coming,they are useful to others and help the archive of information.