Paint help

[John Punshon]

Hi all,

Im new to the forum and wanted to ask for some advice on a particular problem I am having.

I used to paint my models entirely with a brush but have decided to start spraying them for obvious reasons. However, because I have limited time in which I do my modelling, I tend to grab 30 mins here 45mins there etc, I have decided to use Tamiya spray cans instead of an air brush for simplicity.

The problem I have is that the paint keeps lifting when I apply the second coat. It is even worse if I have sanded back a certain area and exposed the plastic below.

Also I occasionally have problems with the paint lifting when I glue something to a painted surface. Am I doing too much pre painting?

I know these may be basic problems but some advice would be really great.

Thanks and I look forward to the reply.

John

 

[rjwood_uk]

firstly, welcome to the forum! i hope you enjoy your time on here and find it as helpful and informative as we all do!...also a bit of a laugh and joke with some great people!!

as for the paint, im not sure. i have never had this problem. to be honest i have always found the tamiya AS and TS range to be great and only ever needed one coat. it dosnt go on too thick or thin and for me seems to give a perfect cover ever time. Bunkerbarge used tamiya sprays quite a bit i think, he might have encountered this problem before and might be able to help you out.

here is my first ever use at tamiya sprays (im quite proud of it)

this is done in the tamiyas TS-44 "Brilliant Blue"

 

[Bunkerbarge]

As Richard says I have used Tamiya sprays and never had a problem but I do put a lot of care and attention into the process.

Just remember all the basics such as shake the tin for a long long time to ensure a proper mix and I always dip the tin in warm water as well to slightly increase the pressure, help the mixing process and helpt the paint to dry a bit quicker. Another point is to ensure that the surface is properly cleaned and degreased. I always wash the parts in warm soapy water before spraying to ensure it is clean and free of grease and release agents.

Finally make sure you are spraying in a nice dry atmosphere. Sheds can be prone to condensation issues that can affect the surface of the plastic and make sure that the model and the surounds are the same temperature. Taking the model from a warm workshop to a cold shed to spray will cause condensation to form on the plastic surface and affect adhesion.

If you are doing all these points I am not sure what else to suggest but let us know how you go on and maybe a bit more detail about exactly how you spray a model.

I think the Tamiya sprays are superb as regards paint quality, finish and convenience and I have always been pleased with the results.

 

[jankers]

JP,

It may be the plastic!

My son was attempting to paint a car shell using car type spray paint but was constantly getting blooming or some other imperfection, even stripping the whole thing back to the original surface and treating it with 1200 wet/dry made no difference.

He had not treated the shell in any way different from many others, but this was the first to display these tendancies.

I would try a test on some of the sprue to see what happens.

J.

 

[John Punshon]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I think I will have to strip the shell back and start again. If all else fails at least its a tick in the experience box!

What is the best way to strip the shell? Sanding or paint stripper of some sort?

Thanks

 

[rjwood_uk]

you could sand, but that risks loosing details. the best way would be to soak the model in windoline/windex. (any amonia based window cleaner) leave it in for a while and you will see the paint floating off. any remains on it can be scrubed off with an old toothbrush or a cloth.

 

[merlinuk0601]

try using Halfords grey plastic primer to start off with. this gives a good base to check flaws and base for the top coats. remember little at a time and no heavy coats this takes a little longer but is worth it. before u glue scape the mating faces free of paint and use a pointer type dispenser for accurate locating of the glue, use sparingly

 

[jankers]

Use DOT3 brake fluid, it removes the paint without damage to the plastic.

My son has stripped many shells after taking this advice from a forum member.

J.

PS Use the Dot3, if you can get it; it is lots better than the current Dot4 stuff.