Plastic Fit

Jack L

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After a bit of help with this one, The Amusing Hobby Panther II. Has been a fairly nice model up to this point, but I now find the upper and lower hull are way out. Not warped or distorted, just no where near fitting together.

To get the hull lined up at the front (green), it is a mile out at the rear (Red) or vice versa. Now it makes much more sense to have the front lined up, so question is how do I sort the rear end out??8A542CBF-E595-42C7-9EB2-86EFD18661DF.jpeg
ABD40E4A-17D0-4EE4-9D75-DF44F514CE99.jpeg

Do I try and take a sliver from the top here off, or try and botch some filler together with plasticard?? Don’t think either will be particularly easy for me.
4D1F024D-B9DF-43ED-B305-7F28C9CB030F.jpeg
 

stillp

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It looks to me as if the upper hull needs to be further forward so the rear panel fits onto the upper edge of the upper hull?
Pete
 

Jack L

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Have tried various positions...if the photo’s will show...

To fit on the upper edge, as I believe it should...There is a monumental gap on the side armour. Short...not just needing a clamp or two.


B1DA87DF-145D-4DA4-B68D-DEA58ABB5A24.jpeg

To bring it forward to sit in front:
3371C80E-714B-486F-B2D0-3855C3359E3A.jpeg

The side armour fits flush:
68764341-934E-4DF1-971C-F4DE33E8CCC0.jpeg

But...massive overbite at the front.
B2B16D52-4CC2-42B4-9246-9A1E99611CEA.jpeg

That rear panel is just too high...although all correct according to instructions, locating tabs and in relation to the bottom of the hull.
 

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stillp

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Well, I don't know what to suggest. Maybe someone who's built this kit will see your question.
I had a similar problem with a Tamiya Chieftain but managed to get a reasonable fit after moving the upper and lower relative to each other.
Pete
 
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Allen Dewire

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Hi Jack,

From your pictures, it appears that the rear plate is mounted to the hull incorrectly. It is mounted to far into the hull, making the the hull too short for the upper body,

InkedB1DA87DF-145D-4DA4-B68D-DEA58ABB5A24_LI.jpg

The backplate should sit flush with the notch under your finger under the stowage box. If there is a way to remove it, I would first glue the upper and lower halves together and then add the rear plate making adjustments if needed.

IMG_1799.JPG

Ok, this is not the best reference, but if you notice the upper half hooks in relation to the rear plate, you'll see that the plate doesn't sit so deep onto the side plates. I hope this makes sense and helps.

Prost
Allen
 

KarlW

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Actually looks like the rear plate is attached incorrectly.......
Edit: Now I've read Allens post I agree with him.

Your third picture shows the rear plate attached on top of the locating strips rather than butted up to them.
 
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Jack L

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Thanks all...that could well be it, although it is Sat on the locator tab. I'll have a go at getting the rear plate off and give it another go.
Thanks again.
 

minitnkr

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I think I see how you got to where you are. The tab/slot detail, by the rear idler mount, for the rear plate has given the impression the rear plate should be as you've assembled it, too deep. I believe Allen has the solution. Nice clean build so far. PaulE
 

Jack L

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Rear plate has come away reletively nicely, and that seems to be the solution! Thank you all! Amazing when a fresh pair of eyes come up trumps straight away!
 

Jakko

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From your pictures, it appears that the rear plate is mounted to the hull incorrectly. It is mounted to far into the hull, making the the hull too short for the upper body,
I was about to say the same thing. It looks to me like Jack’s glued the rear plate to the upper surface of the sponsons rather than in the recess at the rear of it. Glad to see it was indeed this simple, and is sorted now :smiling3:
 

rtfoe

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Yup the guys have spotted the problem. One of the references of alignment is on the outer side welded slot that would have given the indication that the rear plate was glued at a wrong angle. Good thing its sorted.

Cheers,
Richard
 

Jack L

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Unfortunately made another balls up of this one. Applied the tracks as per this reference:
ED743585-61AD-4104-A9A0-3897F92236E0.jpeg

36E57CE9-2D0B-43E6-87EE-35CAE52EE191.jpeg

To find out the outer edge (of the tracks) should be flush with the outer edge of the drive wheel, not the inner edge, as per this reference:

384FF373-FACE-4A5C-90F3-E5EA1A05693F.jpeg

Means now the side skirts will not fit, nor are the brackets any use, as I soldered them to the plates for extra strength. The tracks are not particularly neat (5 pieces per 88 links each side) so the plan was to cover most with the skirts. This one may be destined for the bin.
 

KarlW

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The reference is another model and appears to have winterketten, but a bit short..........did the germans have another type? @Jakko
 

Jack L

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The reference is another model and appears to have winterketten, but a bit short..........did the germans have another type? @Jakko
Yeah it’s a model, and I think you are right, I just didn’t pay enough attention. It wasn’t particularly clear from the instructions, but I think most German tracks are aligned like this:

49F88CBC-1C05-4732-BA85-E05BECF3EC8F.jpeg

And I didn’t think it would be any other way. Completely my fault.
 
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