Purple GTR - The Flying Obergine!

[M477]

Hey All,

So recently joined the forum as i got back into modelling. Also just got an airbrush for the first time after 20years of brush painting minatures and the odd 1/24 tamiya model with a rattle car or two.

I like a bit of detail so will he adding some diy seatbelts and maybe a carbon bonnet etc. Some basic photos for the first post but Ive pretty much got all the bits painted and in a pot ready to assemble.

The body colour I kind of gave myself an unessessary challenge by custom mixing a metallic colour for the first car body I've ever airbrushed - who doesn't like a challenge eh?

I know it might not give the best finish but i much prefer water based non toxic paints, typically Citadel and more recently for this project Vallejo model colour/air range.

For the body i used 50/50 mix of royal purple/black with metallic meduim and thinners. I didnt thin enough first time round so did some sanding and recoating. Its a bit matte and not the smoothest but its fair for a first attempt I feel. Will try clear gloss varnish coats and see if that helps bring it up a bit.

Comments welcome!

 

[Stefee]

Hi Matt,
I like your co.our choice and if you like acrylics without too much odour the Tamiya X and XF range are what I use although they are solvent based. I only use these paints and the X22 clear gloss although I leave them for 2 to 3 weeks after painting to cure in a Tupperware box in the airing cupboard.
I mai ly build 1/24 and 1/25 cars, have a look at my posts in completed civilian vehicles to get an idea on what can be achieved, the Porsche 928 was a metallic self mix using Tamiya colours and X22.
Looking forward to see more of your builds.

Stefan

 

[Ian M]

Nice colour and effect.
I inserted your images as full size for you.

 

[M477]

Nice colour and effect.
I inserted your images as full size for you.

Thank you, I uploaded on my phone and it was my first post with photos so a bit of learning curve!

 

[M477]

Hi Matt,
I like your co.our choice and if you like acrylics without too much odour the Tamiya X and XF range are what I use although they are solvent based. I only use these paints and the X22 clear gloss although I leave them for 2 to 3 weeks after painting to cure in a Tupperware box in the airing cupboard.
I mai ly build 1/24 and 1/25 cars, have a look at my posts in completed civilian vehicles to get an idea on what can be achieved, the Porsche 928 was a metallic self mix using Tamiya colours and X22.
Looking forward to see more of your builds.

Stefan

Hi, thank you for the comments! I did buy a full set of Tamiya X and XF paints a few months back and I couldn't handle the smell - made my chest tight etc. so sold them on and took a pause until recently. Great coverage with those paints but not for me I'm afraid.

 

[Andy the Sheep]

Welcome to the forum Matt. Nice colour choice.

 

[JR]

Welcome from me as well Matt.
Looking a good start, agree about the smell of some paint's, a good mask and extraction is a good idea if you have't already got.

 

[M477]

Welcome from me as well Matt.
Looking a good start, agree about the smell of some paint's, a good mask and extraction is a good idea if you have't already got.

Hello and thanks! Yes I went all in when I bought the airbrush and got an extractor off Amazon and new filters for my JSP Force 8 mask at the same time. so maybe I could revisit non water based paints in the future if I really struggle to get the level of finish I want on the body shell from the Vallejo paints.

 

[JR]

Sounds good, a lot of guys s on here would recommend lacurers over acrylics. I've recently started to use Mr Hobby primers . Better if one of the others like @Andy T @Jim R or @BarryW who use those paints explain more.

 

[M477]

Added a bit of shading and seatbelts...



Also painted the underside and started assembling:

 

[JR]

Looking really good Matt .

 

[M477]

Made good progress over the weekend, just got a couple of finishing touches and I' add it to the completed models section.

Finished the underside and weathered the exhaust:

Went for matte black on the spoiler (that thin fin at the top was a nightmare to get to stick in place!):

Left the lower side vent pieces (solid plastic) out and used the mesh sheet:

Rear lights and plate fitted, hard to tell but I also masked and sprayed the rear diffuser when I did the window trims:

I messed up when fitting one of the headlight glass pieces and managed to push the headlight into the car (mustn't have glued it well enough) and I can't get it out as I've already glued the undertrays in place so my contingency plan is to spray the glass matte black for that drift/trackday look.

 

[M477]

So here it is (minus plates). I definitely learned from a few mistakes on this build, but first time airbrushing was a great test case for the next one.

1. Airbrushing the bodyshell with water based metallic acrylic mix was never going to be smooth and certainly not give me that polished gloss look. I actually really like matte so for my next build I'm going to try straight up solid matte colour - less fuss and I've done some testing on plain plastic spare parts and I actually get better results without primer. Not sure if thats an issue with Vallejo primer (I tried thinned and unthinned to the same effect).
2. I need a better/different hobby superglue, my application was difficult even using the point of a wooden skewer. I definitely prefer the small brush like the Tamiya thin cement I have (which stinks and I hate using it, as good as it is). I accidentally did a blob on the small spoiler and its ruined it.
3. I really enjoy the interior detailing with ribbon seatbelts etc, but I could spend less time on this as its just not that apparent when built. Same goes for spraying the underside shell anything other than black to be honest.
4. Don't do a shoddy job of gluing the headlights in next time (refer to point 2 above!)

I Ended up sticking the wheels on with blu-tac so i could position them how I wanted.

 

[Mini Me]

That's turned out looking the part! I realize you haven't finished it yet but just a reminder to blacken the inside of the exhaust a bit so it looks a little run in.

 

[M477]

That's turned out looking the part! I realize you haven't finished it yet but just a reminder to blacken the inside of the exhaust a bit so it looks a little run in.

Thank you! I did hit it with the weathering powders but its a chrome sprue and it didn't take, hindsight I should have sprayed it with the rest of the exhaust!

 

[Stefee]

Looks really good Matt.
Remember you are building these for your own enjoyment (unless entering competitions) so there is no right or wrong choice regarding floorpan colour, matt or gloss finish - do it to suit yourself.
I only build cars I have owned, driven or repaired/restored in my former life so I restrict myself to getting as close as possible to what I know and remember.
Do what you enjoy and bring on the next one.

 

[M477]

Looks really good Matt.
Remember you are building these for your own enjoyment (unless entering competitions) so there is no right or wrong choice regarding floorpan colour, matt or gloss finish - do it to suit yourself.
I only build cars I have owned, driven or repaired/restored in my former life so I restrict myself to getting as close as possible to what I know and remember.
Do what you enjoy and bring on the next one.

Thank you and great advice - I've definitely restricted myself in the past and strictly stuck to the instructions and other peoples advice off youtube. Probably the bits I enjoyed the most with this build was going off piste a bit and experimenting!

 

[Jabba]

Nice work Matt. I agree with Stefee, you've got to build models to suit your own mindset and keep it enjoyable. trying to emulate the skill levels of some of the modelling Gods on You-tube would reduce me to tears and take all the fun out of it. (Much as I have massive respect for their skills and work). By the way, one tip I picked up recently was to paint a bit of diluted PVA (white glue) on the fabric of the seat belts and they can be shaped to look more natural. It dries clear, so doesn't show afterwards. it also makes the buckles easier to thread through (Belkits and Nu-Nu have PE buckles in their 1/24 kits), but I know what you mean, its hard to see them once the body goes on.