Thanks Karl, I've only ever sprayed with acrylics so this is a bit of a learning curve.Aren't they enamel based?
Cheap turps or mineral spirits for cleaning. Lacquer thinners will also do the job. As will Mr Tool Cleaner.
Flush well with water before going back to acrylics.
Make sure the airbrush is properly clean and free from thinners when changing paint types, or better yet have one dedicated to each.Thanks Karl, I've only ever sprayed with acrylics so this is a bit of a learning curve.
Thanks for that100ml Xtreme Cleaner AK Interactive AK-470 | Scale Model Shop
100ml Xtreme Cleaner AK Interactive AK-470 Scale Model Shop, UK supplier of plastics Model kits and accessories, fast UK deliverywww.scalemodelshop.co.uk
definitely don't want that to clean outMake sure the airbrush is properly clean and free from thinners when changing paint types, or better yet have one dedicated to each.
Wrong thinners and you create something akin to cottage cheese, only more appetising.......
Many thanks for the heads up John that’s really useful to knowMick,
I've experimented with those and found it best to use the proper thinners for them (AK470).
A big word of warning though. Don't use any of the traditional PS glues (including even Tamiya Extra Thin) anywhere near them as the glues INSTANTLY destroy the metallic finish.
You also need to lay it down like a lacquer, in multiple very thin layers. Put on too thick and the base coat is reactivated and your paint job goes black.
Personally, I found that the Tamiya LP-1 (Gloss Black) is the best undercoat for the metallics. In fact, I have migrated to Tamiya lacquers because of the glue intolerance described above.
Scale Model Shop has the full range of the Tamiya lacquers. I used them in the build of the Airfix kit (Last Flight of the Concorde) which has gunmetal-painted engines (Tamiya LP-19). No glue attack at all.
Hope this helps.
John
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