Tim’s Airfix 1/35 Austin K2/Y Ambulance .

JR

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Top notch Tim.
 

adt70hk

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Tim,

That's really coming on very nicely indeed. Very well done.

Andrew
 

Valeron

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Thanks Andy. It’s actually quite simple using pastel chalks on a matt surface. Only thing is it can rub off if you handle it too much…..usually enough stays behind though, and another dust is quite easy and quick to do….l
As a matter of interest as a relative newbies, what are the differences between pastel chalks and pigments? I used Vallejo pigments brushed dry onto a recent model for the first time to try and add a dusty effect.

Yours does look good Tim by the way.
 

Tim Marlow

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As a matter of interest as a relative newbies, what are the differences between pastel chalks and pigments? I used Vallejo pigments brushed dry onto a recent model for the first time to try and add a dusty effect.

Yours does look good Tim by the way.
Pigments come pre ground in a pot. They are quite coarse in structure but are good for building up accretions.
Pastels are artists chalks, are very much cheaper, come in a vast range of colours, and come as solid sticks….
 

Ian M

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They are quite coarse in structure but are good for building up accretions.
Vallejo's are pretty fine. I have airbrushed with them a few times. Not with the 0,2 but a 0,4 manages. And if you dont shut the paint off and just close the air, When you start up again you get some rather nice splatters. I digress. Sorry.
I have, in the past, used a Buff Vallejo model color sprayed from about 18" that gives a nice dusty look.
 

Tim Marlow

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Vallejo's are pretty fine. I have airbrushed with them a few times. Not with the 0,2 but a 0,4 manages. And if you dont shut the paint off and just close the air, When you start up again you get some rather nice splatters. I digress. Sorry.
I have, in the past, used a Buff Vallejo model color sprayed from about 18" that gives a nice dusty look.
I’ve used Tamiya buff for that Ian, but that was the colour I used for the body so it wouldn’t do much in this case…..
 

Tim Marlow

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Almost there now. Wheels and canvas side screens fitted…..just wing mirrors, rear doors, and rear steps to go…..and the sand mats and rope, which I’m still thinking about…..
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All the wheels touch, which is great….

No more here though, I’ll save the finished pictures for the completed section…..

If you are still thirsty, sorry guys….bars closed…
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Tim Marlow

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That is looking very nice indeed Tim. As usual when people like Jakko and yourself get "chatting" I learn a lot about such things as Bridge Classification - a by product of your builds :thumb2: :smiling:
Cheers Jim. I learn a lot as well…….
 

Tim Marlow

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Looking superb mate. Just a suggestion for your sandmats I made some for my LRDG chevy by cutting some strips of foil the width you need then then crinkle them then roll them up.
I think the ones on Katy look a bit smoother than that Scottie….
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I was thinking of Tamiya tape cut to width, and sticks (made from plastic rod) stuck on the sticky side and the whole rolled up…..
I’m not sure I can fit them though, so they might get left off. The one on the left has been shoved behind the weight indicator, but that means it’s been pushed through where the support strut (that I’ve already fitted and painted) lives. No idea what holds the one on the right on either……
I need to find some cord I can use as rope as well……I had some waxed thread that would be about right, but I can’t find it anywhere.
 

Jakko

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Those mats look like sticks sewn to canvas, so not that easy to make convincingly, I would think … I think the method you suggest should work well enough, but you'll probably need to construct (or find) something to space the sticks out with correctly, else it will be very hard to get them to look right.
 

Tim Marlow

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Those mats look like sticks sewn to canvas, so not that easy to make convincingly, I would think … I think the method you suggest should work well enough, but you'll probably need to construct (or find) something to space the sticks out with correctly, else it will be very hard to get them to look right.
I was going to use a piece of brass of the correct thickness and dip it into water to stop it sticking while I place the next stick…..not sure if they will look “refined” enough though…..
 

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Rolling them up will hide a lot of sins :smiling3: The outside bits are the most important to get right, I think.
 

Tim Marlow

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Finished model here….

Just as a last picture……this was all that was left in the box when I completed it……
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I can only think that the extra transparencies are for other versions. As it should be I think. If it was Dragon I’d need another box to store the spares that I would probably never use…..
 
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