Water block

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Polux

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Hi to All!

I want to do a block of solid "water" for my crashed SIG.

At first, my intenttion was to do with "still water" of Vallejo.

This product have several problems ... for a good transparent color it is necessary to go superimposing thin caps of product, if you do fast in one rapid time, the central part is never like dry and stays badly of visibility. The size of the block that I want to fill is big, to use this product supposes doing caps of 1 or 2mm every two days!!! In August I will be still to the half!! I have discovered that with the time it shrinks and deforms!!!(Shanina's dio, I will return after the battle)

Someone of you have worked with resin or similar?? They are the sufficient thing be transparent to create water?? Have you some advice please??

Best regards

Polux
 

Ian M

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If you are intending to cast the diorama into a block so that the whole thing is inside the resin you will need some thing like this. CASTING PLASTIC POLYESTER RESIN I don't know if you know off those paper weights you can often buy where a shell or a flower is set inside a solid block of resin....A good video on YouTube shows the

In your case you would just need to mix it up and pour it in a mould.

All resins shrink to some extent. some so little you dont see it, others... well we all know about that.

Ian M
 
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Polux

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Thank you very much Ian!!

That is exactly what I'm looking for!!

Thanks again.

Polux
 
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Polux

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I have the product!!!!

Spanish version.... But it's Ok!!! :smile11:

I think I will use in the Smaug diorama too!!!!

Thanks again Ian!!!

Best regards

Polux
 

Ian M

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Post some pictures of how it goes. I'm sure it's not just me that would like to see how that works.

Ian M
 
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phalinmegob

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i used some clear casting resin on my bridge over the river why dio and it does shrink a little but not to the extent that vallejo clear water does but it can be poured a lot thicker. it was called polylite clear casting resin and was purchased on e-bay from a guy in belfast,very fast delivery.
 
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Polux

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\ said:
Post some pictures of how it goes. I'm sure it's not just me that would like to see how that works.Ian M
Will do Ian, I promise!

When it fills the container with the resin and breaks the mold I will do photos that I will publish right here.

If I discover tricks or failures the people they will know and be useful for all.

Cheers

Polux
 
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Polux

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\ said:
i used some clear casting resin on my bridge over the river why dio and it does shrink a little but not to the extent that vallejo clear water does but it can be poured a lot thicker. it was called polylite clear casting resin and was purchased on e-bay from a guy in belfast,very fast delivery.
Many thanks Andrew!

Here I found it in a normal paint shop!! They understand my quickly and give me some advice about it!!

Dry so fast, isn't it?

Regards

Polux
 
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I'm in the middle of a diorama build and I'm about ready for looking into the water now. Also have another one planned for a future build so I'm really interested in seeing what works.
 
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phalinmegob

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polux..resist the temptation to put your finger on it to see if its dry, it leaves a lovely fingerprint. i found that the stuff was taking a good 24-36 hours before it was strong enough to touch without marking it, but i was pouring it very thick
 

papa 695

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Hi Pollux I'm also very interested in how the resin works good luck with it and looking forward to the outcome
 
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Polux

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\ said:
polux..resist the temptation to put your finger on it to see if its dry, it leaves a lovely fingerprint. i found that the stuff was taking a good 24-36 hours before it was strong enough to touch without marking it, but i was pouring it very thick[/quote:grinball1::grinball1:

You catch me!!! Thanks for the advice Andrew!!

I will try don't do it!!!

Well, I need some time before finish the work painting at Tilly, but just only starts with resin I will post the pics!!!

Thanks to all

Polux
 

Ian M

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Remember easy on the Hardener. To much hardener in the mix and it will crack up. Seeing that you are in a nice warm land. I think it will also be smart to do it in the cool of evening.

Ian M
 
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So, as discussed in another thread, Polux asked if I wanted to share this thread to show the differences with making water.

I am making a diorama featuring the Mekong River so it's pretty dirty looking. I wanted to know if adding some paint to it would change the hardening properties, etc, so I have started my experiment and have a photo below.

This was taken at 12:30 and shows two different tests. Both have 50ml of Polylite resin and 2ml of the supplied catalyst.

On the left is the clear resin, no paint added. You can see that it has a blue/green tint to it, it'll be interesting to see how transparent it goes.

On the right I have added 4ml of Tamiya acrylic Khaki.

It's quite warm today so have put it in the garden shed for the time being - it is VERY smelly!!!

I'll check on it again tomorrow and will update when there is a change.

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Zero hour.jpg
 
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Okay, that was a lot quicker than expected.

Within an hour the clear one had gone transparent. After 3 hours, they were both relatively solid.

The one with the paint cured a lot quicker than the clear one. The clear one still failed the fingerprint test but the one with paint in it passed (as they were only for tests I thought I'd try this - plus I couldn't resist).

I guess the paint must have helped with the hardening process.

The only concern I have is that the plastic cup felt warm during the hardening and I'm now worried that this may melt the boat or blister the paint. Maybe someone could answer this.

Anyway, here are the photo's after 4 hours.

View attachment 45993

View attachment 45994

View attachment 49051

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DSCF1040 [1024x768].jpg
 

papa 695

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A great test Drew but i don't think with it getting warm during the hardening it would cause any damage to your boat or it would have warped the thinner plastic cup
 
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I maybe should have said, the clear one looks pretty clear when looking down on it, just looks a little bit cloudy from the side. Almost 24 hours on and the clear one still fails the finger print test but the coloured one is solid.

That occurred to me after posting, Ian. I've managed to remove them from the cups and they were totally undamaged.
 
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phalinmegob

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thats queer because i tried mixing revell acrylics with it and just would not mix,did not think to try tamiya.well done you have given me some new ideas to play with,thanks
 

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Is there not something about the resin don't cure in air. I remember seeing that you have to put something on the top so the resin hardens on the surface.

Ian M
 
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Polux

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Hi Drew!! At first, thanks for share this theard with me (and all).

Hi hope to show nearly my information, still painting the Tilly and I don't start the block yet.

I have to questions; well... in fact I'm not sure if my translation of your text is Ok... You say are worried by the warm during the "dry time", and this could melt your boat!! I was thinking about it, and worried me too, remember my Tilly is under/inside the block!! But then, I remember some people put delicated pieces like dry plants or butterflys inside... Them I supouse nothing will happen!

The other is; the shopman proposed me to put oil in the walls of the container for, once the resin dries, this one was not sticking in his walls. Do you know if it is possible to take from the block that you have done with facility? There are problems?

Thanks again Drew for your great information and thread!!

Regards

Polux
 
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