Zero Paints

[backonthecase]

Tried these for the first time in the last couple weeks and very impressed.

Dries quickly, smoothly (although heavily dependent on the under surface) and accepts sanding between coats really well without flaking.

Zero Lacquer next tonight, wish me luck.

Out

 

[backonthecase]

Ok so I have never experienced a quicker turnaround. Raging.com - the lacquer goes like spider webs when sprayed onto the body of the car... what's that all about?!?! It's completely ****ed the finish!!!! It's almost like I wasnt close enough with the AB - when I got closer to the surface it worked better but it is much too uncontrollable to be practical!

Anyone else had this?! clutching at thin air here!!!

 

[backonthecase]

Ok took some photos to illustrate what I mean: -

Nice shiny Zero blue: -

Some of the lacquer worked out: -

Some didn't: -

Any comments or help welcome.

Stuart

 

[Gomer Pyle]

I've had the same thing happen with one of the Johnson acrylic floor wax's, almost as if the paint underneath expanded and the clear coat cracked. What was your dying time between base coat and clear? I would expect that a couple of days or more would be needed for a full cure. Try getting in touch with Steve at Hiroboy, he's said to be sort of a wiz on zero paints.

/Daniel

 

[andygh]

Will it polish out?

 

[sprayman]

It looks like to me the paint is cracking.....which would usually suggest the paint is shrinking while it cures....I have no experience with zero paints, so cant really comment on them, this may be a long shot but, the paint could be reacting with the primer.

 

[CDW]

For a start on my monitor here it looked as though the laquer is stringing out filaments and throwing them on the surface as it travels from the airbrush.

I saw the similar thing happen in a carspray booth when a chap used some old laquer that he found "back of the cupboard"

 

[backonthecase]

Thanks for the speedy replies gents, much appreciated.

The paint underneath the lacquer does not seem to be affected, however the lacquer also did this on my desk when I sprayed some test squirts around on scrap afterwards, so I think the issue is with the Lacquer not the paint.

The jar says to allow only 15 minutes flash off of the original paint til the lacquer, which I thought was a bit odd, but they're both made by the same company. I allowed around 45mins from the last coat of paint to the lacquer.

Maybe it does take longer to dry, however this doesnt explain the same effect happening on my workbench...

I have emailed Hiroboy as I could find no contact details on Zero's website. So I will see what I get in response and post the results here.

Thanks again for the responses guys. I have to say I am in a better mood with it today, and will try to gently sand it back to a workable surface again tonight.

Thanks

Stuart

 

[backonthecase]

For a start on my monitor here it looked as though the laquer is stringing out filaments and throwing them on the surface as it travels from the airbrush.I saw the similar thing happen in a carspray booth when a chap used some old laquer that he found "back of the cupboard"

CDW that does sounds like exactly the same problem. So is it likely this is maybe a bad batch of lacquer?

Stuart

 

[CDW]

if could be i suppose, it's something to do with the molecules of laquer combining together in the "suspension" (?) and coming through the airbrush as a string ..... i'm not exactly up to scratch on airbrush science so someone (Ray maybe?) could possibly explain this in more detail

 

[backonthecase]

I'd also be interested in Ray's views on this as our resident 1:1 spraying guru.....

Could it be that for once it's not my fault!??! lol

 

[sprayman]

What you are saying makes sense Colin, Its been many years since I have seen any sort of stringing via the airbrush, and all I can remember about it, was that the thinner was reacting with the paint to form a gloop( technical words now...lol) and made the paint form a syrup....but Im talking many years back when laquer thinners where not as high a grade as they are today.

But its not uncommon to still get today a bad paint mix, where the paint starts to separate from the thinner, there is a definite problem with the paint if it is stringing, but stringing is a years ago problem...unless the paint has been mixed with a poor grade thinner.

You will get the effect if you mix vallejo model colour with cellulose, as the cellulose creates the same gunk, due to the thinner "melting" the acrylic based paint.

I hope Stuart you get it sorted, and hope it was just down to a bad jar of paint on the day.

 

[backonthecase]

Rats.... so all I can hope for is that Hiroboy get back to me and replaces the jar..... as of yet, no response

Thanks again guys

Stuart

 

[Richy C]

I`ve had this happen to me also Stuart , I don`t think its a reaction with the paint as I done a test on my turn table and it looked like it was covered in fur after , I gave the ab a good clean with cellulose thinner tried it again and it sprayed out ok , I take it its the pre-thinned laquer and not the two pack stuff that comes with a hardener if so I`ve heard others have also had the same issues on F1M , what I do now is fill the cup and spray a coat , empty the cup back in the bottle and run a lttle thinners through the ab , 10-15 mins later fill the cup coat up model again empty cup little more thinners again - you get the picture , in doing this I`ve not had any issues since and takes no time at all , what I don`t do is let the stuff sit in the cup between coats anymore , letting it sit is maybe related to the problem or maybe not who knows

Hiroboy are very slow with returning emails it might be better phoning them , let us know what they say I would be interested what Steve advises , saying that the method I now use seems to work for me with the pre-thinned laquer , the 2 pack stuff is ment to be superb if you get the mixes right.

Cheers

Richy

 

[backonthecase]

I`ve had this happen to me also Stuart , I don`t think its a reaction with the paint as I done a test on my turn table and it looked like it was covered in fur after , I gave the ab a good clean with cellulose thinner tried it again and it sprayed out ok , I take it its the pre-thinned laquer and not the two pack stuff that comes with a hardener if so I`ve heard others have also had the same issues on F1M , what I do now is fill the cup and spray a coat , empty the cup back in the bottle and run a lttle thinners through the ab , 10-15 mins later fill the cup coat up model again empty cup little more thinners again - you get the picture , in doing this I`ve not had any issues since and takes no time at all , what I don`t do is let the stuff sit in the cup between coats anymore , letting it sit is maybe related to the problem or maybe not who knowsHiroboy are very slow with returning emails it might be better phoning them , let us know what they say I would be interested what Steve advises , saying that the method I now use seems to work for me with the pre-thinned laquer , the 2 pack stuff is ment to be superb if you get the mixes right.

Cheers

Richy

Thanks Richy, I will strip and clean the ab tomorrow and see what happens. If no different I will give them a call on monday

Thanks again

 

[backonthecase]

Well finally some silver lining - I GENTLY sanded back the lacquer with 3000 grit paper. It's a shame, the bits that worked, looked really nice under the top coat too.

Anyway, i think with a thin coat of the blue I'll be back to where I was 2 nights ago, so it's not set me back as much time as I thought. Just have to see if I can get an alternative top coat in the mean time.

 

[backonthecase]

Spoke to Steve today, I'm sending this jar back for analysis. Very friendly good humoured chap, hope he comes up with the goods.

Stuart

 

[sprayman]

Good to know your getting it sorted, glad also it was not to much of a pain to remove it.....